running like hairy goat

[Drewpee]

Hi guys, I'm hoping for some advice. My 1uz has been in my Monaro for about 2 years without much trouble but the other day while driving the car lurched like it ran out of fuel then started missing, wouldn't rev much past 3grand and had trouble idling. Now I have searched the site and have come to the conclusion that its a stuffed knock sensor. After working out how to wire the engine check light and resetting the ECU it will run OK until it revs over 3000rpm then it seems to go into limp mode retards timing and runs rich. After some bad languish I shut down, check error codes and get 52.
OK heres the thing. Being tight fisted I need to fix it myself. Does someone know if code 52 is the left or right knock sensor or how I will now if I get the rite one.

 

[Zuffen]

If you need a knock sensor let me know they are going for free.

 

[Cobber]

It's a bit of a pain to get to them so change both.

 

[sideshow]

sounds mor elike a fuel pump or air flow meter problem

 

[Drewpee]

Thanks guys. Rod thats good of you to offer,I'll let you know. Good advice Cobber makes sense. I have a new Bosch 040 fuel pump its been in for months no probs. I pulled the plugs today they were black with soot so too much fuel. tonight I found a wire from the crank angle sensor that has been rubbed bare by the drive belt, the plug at the sensor starts as two wires then merges into one larger black one with an insulated inner wire wrapped with the outer wire. its the outer wire thats damaged. I'll look some more tomorrow. I'll let you know how I go.

 

[sideshow]

if the outer shielding toouches the inside wire u will get errors

 

[Drewpee]

Ok , I'm going back wards, car would not fire after a few stop start tests. Had to leave it for an hour to go cold then it started reluctantly and ran rough as guts. Wire to crank sensor seems ok, I'm getting spark to all plugs, fuel pressures good, timing belt is on its marks, I took of the air filter no different. The engine check light stays on now even after clearing code 52. Some times in test mode I get no blinking light at all. Is it possible a knock sensor will cause all the problems or is something setting off the knock sensor warning?

 

[sideshow]

leaking injectors maybe

did it start out of the blue

or did it happen after u touched something like most other problems

i get calls about to fix

bring it to sydney and ill fix it

trying to fix weird probs on net is very ainful

 

[Cobber]

I wouldn't think the knock sensors would make a difference to starting. You could try disconnecting them, the plug is at the back corner of the engine it also has the starter wire in it as well so you will have to make a bridgeing wire for the starter.
If it's too rich the cold start injector could be stuck open? Un plug the connector first then try blanking off the fuel supply to it.

Agree it's hard to diagnose online all we can do is throw ideas at you.

 

[Drewpee]

Sideshow if I could get to you I'd be there yesterday. I understand the problem diagnosing problems over the net. I can't believe how people will give advice so willingly.
Now for the sob story.
I'm on a carers pension to stay at home and look after my 4 young kids. The oldest is severely handicapped and needs special care. My wife runs a small scrapbook shop (scrap booking if u don't know don't ask) and barley pulls a wage. Anyhow we are a very happy family,the only thing is I haven't to much money to waist on replacing parts that don't need replacing. Nor can I take it to a shop without knowing what its going to cost.
So any suggestions are greatly appreciated and I'll just keep fiddling.

 

[Drewpee]

Ok guys, I started the car and drove from the garage to the shed no probs. I then checked for codes (none showing) then tried to start engine again, no go. The check light wouldn't always light when I turn on ignition. I did some more research on retrieving codes and did a test of checking for voltage between terminals E1,TE1 and TE2 on the DTC and shock horror got a 12.3v reading between E1 and TE1. Does this mean I need to replace the ECM?

 

[sideshow]

i dont mind helping to a certin amount

its just very hard to diagnoe on the net

try jumping +b and fp in diag plig

this will jump the fuel pump and run it all time when ign is on

u could have fuel pump problems

there are afew times ive looked at soar 1uzs and they stall after driving past 6 kph

wiggle and removed and replug efi relays in enigne bay fuse box

there are other probs with soarer 1uzs but unless u know what yr doin then its too hard to explain

12v on te1 is prob residule voltage when u earth the te1 to round it turns on flashing light

te1 might have 12v buts its not full load 12vs

 

[Drewpee]

Thanks Sideshow.
My fuel pumps have been wired through my ignition circuit for two years no probs (not using computer to run pump) and all my plugs keep sooting up after about 10min run time. The only thing to happen to the fuel circuit was running the main fuel tank almost empty(I have a surge tank and feeder pump). Thats when the car first started playing up. I drained the fuel from the surge tank thinking dirty fuel or watter and have used about 50lts off fuel since. Its chewing about 2 or 3 times more fuel at the moment. I'm guessing its getting fuel by the way the plugs are fouling and also leaving black sooty marks on my garage floor from the exhaust pipes.
I have a Michell on demand work shop manual. And its part of the Self-Diagnostic System Chapter that I followed and came up with idea that my ecu may be stuffed. Do you know the cd-rom manual I'm referring to? Do you know of another way to check if the ecu is having a nervous break down? I'll play some more over the weekend

 

[cribbj]

Drewpee, your FPR might be stuffed, or you could have a clogged return line.

If you're using 2-3 times as much fuel as normal, and your plugs are sooted up, it's sounding like your fuel pressure is too high.

We always blame the FPR first, but if there's backpressure in the return line, after the FPR, it'll raise the pressure in the fuel rail by the same amount as the backpressure.

 

[sideshow]

sounds like air flow meter if yr using too ,uch fuel

it could be your ecu but i dont see them go often

but yr best and cheapest way out of it is to find someone with similar engine

and try yr air flow and yr ecu on his car

look for a bad earth on engine harness they are usually on back of block

if your ecu light doesnt turn on or doesnt flash when u go into test mode

then might be stuffed ecu is it in a position where u can get water n it

monaros are renowned for water in the cabin


i have latest mitchel on demand its ok just a big pain navgating around

 

[Drewpee]

More testing today and yesterday.
After leaving the car overnight with no check light on and refusing to start (even with spark and fuel ) I turned on ignition and got the check light then I started it first try. It ran smoothly for about 5 min with no check light. It then started missing and the test light came on. I shut it down and once again could not get a test light/error code.
I then once again left it over night and this morning got check light and it started. I revved the motor to 6 grand no probs, I then disconnected the AFM and the car ran rough and check light came on. Reconnected AFM motor ran smooth and light went out. At about 5min run time it died again. I then jumped E1 and TE2 to retrieve codes but the light was dead once again. I turned on the ignition this arvo and got the check light then checked for codes and got 24 and 31 (from disconnecting AFM). I left ignition on and checked the earth wires. I found if i wiggled them the write way the check light would flicker so I soldered in a new fitting. After playing with More wires to see if the light would go out (ignition had been on for quite some time) I tried to start the engine. No go and once again the light is out. The light will go on once I crank the engine but not when the ignition is turned on and nothing in test mode. Anyone got a 4 plug ls400 cpu I could buy?

 

[Drewpee]

Like this.

 

[sideshow]

those ecus are hard to find

i very rarely wire one of those types

if u sms me tomorrow at around 9am

on 0415 904 947

i can see if sss have any for sale

 

[Drewpee]

I' not having much luck finding an ls400 CPU. I'm just wondering if it would be possible to wire in a more common CPU like a crown? and if so does anyone have CPU with plugs?

 

[cribbj]

A stuffed coolant sensor will also make the car act like this. It'll start up in cold start mode all the time, always give too much fuel, and will never come out of cold start mode.

Before you start hacking & rewiring just to test a new ECU, I'd check over some of the things mentioned:

1. Stuffed MAF
2. Stuffed cold start injector
3. Fuel pressure OK? Clogged return fuel line or stuffed FPR
4. Stuffed coolant sensor