Rich Idle Ruff Help Please!!

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icespy2

New Member
I have a 92 celsior 1uzfe in a 84 4runner. I have replaced the caps,rotors, timing belt, plugs.
I was 99% sure i reassembled the belt back on correctly.
I have had the engine smoke tested and it has no air leak as per this machine test.
I have replaced the AFM, drivers coil, fuel press reg.
I am running a carter pre pump with vl turbo pump and surge tank.
factory ecu that the sparky says is 100% correctly wired up.

Symtems... car runs rich on idle and is very ruff, sounds like it has a big cam in it, and stalls sometimes as it idles low and lumpy. exhaust temp is very high at tail pipe. clamp the return fuel hose and revs pick up and seems to idle better but does not fix it the problem. Has plenty of top end and mid range, only surges on idle/cruise.
strangely some cold starts it seems to be running right then seems when warms up turns to rich ruff idle.
Spent half the price of a new engine already trying to diagnose problem!!
have been told AFM, coils, FPR, fuel system, air leak.... yeah all good but hasnt helped me so far. could it be ISC? when u pull a hose off the inlet the engine should rev up but it doesnt. So 1 bloke says air leak, but the smoke test showed nothing.Another says cam tooth off by 1 or 2? but why some morning cold it seems ok and pulls hard/fine up top.
I have had my car off the road since FEB 07 to do this conversion. I spent 6 weeks to get it in, the sparky has fu*$#ed me around for this long with a car now that runs like crap on idle and fear i will now burn out my CAT and my valves. what do i do please help?
 
Has 'sparky' checked the wiring to the cold start injector? The one fitted underneath the plenum.

You could try blocking the fuel supply to it. The banjo fitting on the top of the fuel rail, to the rear of the TB.

It is the first thing I disable when fitting an aftermarket ECU, just to ensure it does not leak !
 
cam belt

Is it possible that i HAVE missed a tooth out on the cam belt/timing belt? symtoms seem maybe to be pointing this way.....i hope,... as it will be an easy fix, means my auto electrician has done a perfect job, and was just my stupid mistake. Dam im really hoping this is the problem as my 1uz sits in the rails of a 84 live diff 4runner with 32" mud terrains. My first drive all i could do was laugh...laugh at how much it has changed the vehicle and how hard my poor little toyota has never seen.The little truck doesnt know what's hit it!:Eyecrazy:
 
It takes 10 minutes to check if the timing belt is on right.
You may as well check it.

A couple of injectors could also be leaking or injecting too much fuel.
Have you had them tested?
 
Yeah, tryn to nut it out. injectors were serviced and cleaned, that were all matched heaps well anyway. I dont have a timing light so the mechanics checking for me and if were right, then he can pull it off and correct it as i may make the same mistake twice. thanks for you advise but, any advise is good advise.
 

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Bugger, turns out it isnt a cam tooth out. I have a mechanic looking at it now, he says he will find the problem, but i will give him a week or so until you (sideshow) come up to the coast and if he hasnt found the problem by then i will surely let you try to solve it for me. I will post you my mobile phone number in your mail. Thanks sideshow, and anyone else that has an idea or answer to my engine problem.... any advise is good advise thank you.
 
Sounds like an ECU issue to me... These engines run rich on warm up, maybe a bad heat sensor read or something... Dirty intake or vacume leak can cause idle stalls..

Just a few ideas to kick around
 
Yes.. ECU problem alright! the auto mechanic that wired up the ecu has totally ballsed it all up, he has wired the fuel pump to come on permenatly when the reds are on, the isc valve is stuck wide open all the time, he has not wired the speed sensor up (looks like i might need one off my speedo drive/gearbox) and he has left exposed wires hanging out of the ecu. I would name him and warn others not to go to this auto electrician in Tuggerah NSW, but im not out for revenge or arguments even though he has cost me $800 for doing nothing but tidying up my engine bay wires basicly.His words were
"we dont have problems here" "my wirring is 100% correct must be AFM,air leak, coil, etc etc" So i will just leave this message for him :madfawk: ,:censored: .
 
Yes, my mistake, live and learn....expensive lesson.
Sideshow can you please give me a call when your comming up so we can arrange a time/day for you to fix my truck. Its a 4 plug ecu 92 front sump celsior engine. plugs;- 34/22/16/28, i dont think these are very common like the crown 3 plug ecu's. Do you have a pcm voltage table for the ecu?
 
Rough idle

Hi, I am having exactly the same problem and symtons. Do you have or can direct me to someone who can supply a discription of how the wiring should be setup. Mine is a 1990 1uz mid sump, 3 plug computer. Cheers Stan
 
sorry dont give anything out any more

too many wank ers put pics up on the internet

not sure when ill be up as i am flat out till end of august

and im looking at gettin a workshop at end of year

sorry but days of freebies are over

so flat out price on long shitty jobs is goin up

tooooo many time wasters and im gettin sick of travelling for nothing

ill still be coming up to qld but not sure when maybe october
 
Rough idle

Fair enough. I'm from NZ and there is no one around town who knows what they are doing when wiring std ECU's. Tried most of the suggestions in this thread. Thanks Stan
 
After all my troubles, money and time spent with mechanics, auto electricians and mates or forums, i can only highly reccomend 2 people.

SIDESHOW (sss automotive) in NSW Sydney.

or

SCOTT HAMPSON (venom custom fabrications) in QLD Brisbane.

Scott wired my factory ECU / Loom and Sideshow diagnosed and fixed any problems i had with set up / tuning issues.

THESE MEN KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING with 1UZ's

Many thanks guys. Im a happy camper now:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:
 
Rough idle fixed

Thanks Mate,
A bit embarrassing. It was an air leak between the throttle body and phlenum. I had made the assumption that it could not be there as I had fitted it correctly. I had in fact fitted it temporarily, got distracted, and assumed I had finished the job. Just like wheel nuts - finish the job before doing anything else.
 
i do alot of diagnosing of cars that other proffesional mechanics have looked at for ages

it is amazing how many problems are not electrical

there is a s h i t load of shops out there that a just plain dumb aswell they do not know how to diagnose even mechanical problems and half these places are well know lucky i have 12 years mechanical background

just to let people know that my prices sound dear but at end of day if the person who does yr job first makes a mistake i garantee it will cost u double

espeicially if u take car to 2 or more people to sort it out

plus i can fix probs in afew hours compared to some cars ive seen goin for 6 months with problems

u get what u py for

and most places i know will not get everything on the car working

so at the end of the day im not to dear when u look at it as a whole
 


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