replacing the hydraulic clutch fan with electric

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COFFEE

New Member
Messages
172
Location
Sydney NSW
Hi all,
Whilst I have seen a few articles about replacing the Hydraulic fan with Electric ones to gain power, I have not seen anyone fully remove the hydraulic system rather just the fan and clkutch peice.
Does anyone know how the complete system works ?
The lines run into the motor ?
I fear disconnecting the lines and destrying something, any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Stephen
 
Hydro fan

Steven
Maybe this will help have more detailed info but file is pdf and 2 large to post if you give me a pm i could send over.
Regards
lambo
 
has anyone pulled one of these hydraulic fans appart??? I dont need mine so im gutting it and removing the wheel, problem is now i have the nut off the wheel the wheel still wont budge. Am i going to need a puller or is there some other trick??
 
You'll need a puller to get the pulley off.

Once that's of just dismantle the pump and remove the vanes they're not attached they slide in and out.
 
Lowboy NZ,
If you don't have a puller and don't want the pump ?
Save wasting the money on buying a puller, try this.

Get a hammer and tap around the sides of the pulley whilst pulling it with your hands.
Use small but fast taps.
Some times this will work.

The pulley is on a tappered shaft. ( a cone shape )
Smaller diameter at the start and slightly larger diameter and the end, so as the bolt does up, it wedges the pulley hard to the shaft.
If you try to just pull it off with your hands it wont budge.

There are different models that don't have the Hydraulic Fan, so you can replace the pump on the motor with the other models that have a plate with an idler pulley.
I couldn't find one here in Sydney, maybe you would have better luck ?
If your able to find one, simply unbolt the whole pump and replace it with other model !

Off the top of my head, the bolts under the pulley dont hold the pump to the block just the pumps internals in which means you wouldn't have to get the pulley off.

I can't think of any other reason you wouldn't need the pump than to use Electric Fans ?
If so, you can use the wires that go to the solinoid on the lower right hand side of the pump (Just below the pulley ) to switch the relays of your Fans.
Done it that way on my car and it works perfect.

Regards

Stephen
 
Thanks COFFEE and Zuffen,

I just went into work and used the puller, i left the wheel soaking in INOX over night and even then it was a hell tight fit on the tapered shaft!!! The only reason im keeping the housing is to keep the timing belt enclosed. I machined the face of the old pump and have covered where the old shaft and wheel stuck out to make a tidy finish.
 
Lowboy NZ,
Like i said you can get a plate with idler off the other models without the Hydraulic Pump, it does exactly this !
You found a shorter belt to do the job ?
If not i made a post somewhere on this, off the top of my head it was 1785?
I think a kis mentor belt ?

The factory pump adjusted the fan speed by open and closing the solinoid to restrict oil flow.

Thats why i say you can use the wires to switch the Electric Fans on instead of buying a thermo switch.
Works a dream.

Regards

Stephen
 
Cheers COFFEE,

Will look into that switch idea, I will be running a stand alone Link (LEM) on this job so will have to see how/if that runs the electric fans. I just grabed a whole bunch of belts and found one to fit. i have retained the top idler and re-mounted my alternator where the air con sits. will upload pics and the belt number when i get some spare time.
 
Lowboy,

I also put my alternator where the air cond pump was.

I think you need the idler or the belt may "orbit" at high revs and you'll lose traction on the crank pulley.

The alternator pulley has around 170degrees of wrap (with the idler) so will never slip.
 
Zuffen,
I have seen these before.
An old neighbour was making the fibreglass shells a couple of years ago.
His name is Danny and lives in Woodbine ( Campbelltown )
They're a machine and a half
The one completed one i saw had some big supercharged V8 in it with a 32cfm compressor and fully independant suspension, gee it was a beast.

As for the relocation of the Alternator ?
This works well for you but i am not sure for Lowboy.

What motor is that ?

See off memory, you still have the hydraulic pump pulley in the belt run or is this the other models plate ?

Either way, if he removed the pumps pulley altogether it would run straight across from the crank to the alternator.

This is pretty much what i am doing but without swapping the Alternator.
Mine runs straight across from the crank to the A/C Compressor and doesn't slip at all.

Nice machine, beast.


Regards

Stephen
 

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I have the SC400 (soarer) 1UZ and its going into a 2WD Hilux. The hilux steering box is in the way of the alternator so this is why i have moved my alternator. The alternator now sits right where the A/C compressor was, i have removed the pump pulley from the belt run. So yes the belt does run accross the bottom of the crank to the alternator, but i think i have sufficient angle there to not have any slipping. Also once the tensioner is in place it seems to be pretty tight.
 

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Has anyone disabled the Hydraulic fan clutch on the sc400, I looped the fan oil lines at the pump and am now wondering if disconnecting the stock heat sensor will disable the motor, and looping is not necessary but rather pluging instead?. This is in regards to the removal of the stock hydraulic fan and the installation of the electric fan. Can anyone offer me help on this?
 
Just being persistant and trying to get answers while my car is apart, and guess what I got the answers I needed. I Spent most of the day yesterday on these forums, have a good idea on what I want to do, I am done posting after this morning....
 


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