Removing Front Cover on Block? need help!

[Tommyk]

When i changed my timing belt on my 1uz i made the stupid mistake of using a rattle gun on one of the timing belt pully's and i noticed today that i've made hairline cracks in the front alloy cover that goes around the crank (see pics bellow).
I've taken all the bolts out of the cover and its come away from the block but only about 8mm, and it feels like something is still holding it in, ive removed all the bolts i can see on the cover and also the front bolts in the sump, so looking at it i cant see any reason why it shouldnt come off.

Do i need to remove the sump completely to remove this cover?
Is there any particular trick to removing it that im missing?
Any help would be awesome as im really trying to get this off as soon as possible so i can get it welded or get a replacement.

Cheers guys.

 

[rms]

Drop the sump and unbolt the oil pick up pipe !!

It will then come off.

 

[65gtmustang]

what you are trying to remove is the oil pump.if it is cracked you will need a new one.as previous post says you will need to remove sump and pickup

 

[spf_lexus]

dang that sucks! Just finished taking my crank pulley out and thought about using a ratle gun.. but didnt have one. Next time try using a pry bar and brace against the frame and fire the starter for a second... bolt will pop instantly.

 

[Tommyk]

Thanks for the help guys its 8am in australia now and im about to get to work on removing the oil pump. I'll post up some more photos when i get it off so you fellas can see the cracks in it, does anyone know a price on a new one?

Much appreciated.
Tom.

 

[Zuffen]

Tommy,

You don't want to know the price of a new one.

You could buy another engine for less money.

Try the "Wanted To Buy" section of the forum.

Someone will have a used one.

They don't give any real trouble so a used pump should be fine.

Make sure it is well cleaned and primed before installing.

Oh and rattle gun and aluminium block should only appear in the same sentence with the expression "dont use on"

 

[Tommyk]

Haha yeh i know, it was one of those late night stupid mistakes, and ive worked on alot of toyota motors but never one with an alloy block. A good mate of mine said his old mans got a contact who owns a toyota dealership so he said he's gonna see what price he can get one for so hopefully that'll work out, if not i'll have to call the bloke i bought the motor off, he's basically got a 1uz parts shed in his backyard haha.

Anyways i got the pump off today, it was a bit of mission tho as the motor was complete with gearbox, fully wired with every cable clipped neatly in place, in the end i had to use a chainblock off the roof of the shed, lift it off the ground and start pulling it apart. Worked out well tho. Cheers for the help to fellas.

 

[ALI1UZLUX]

I've got a spare good front timing cover with oil pump if you still need.

 

[gloverman]

Hello

Using a rattle gun on the front pully is fine. I am working on these motors all the time and it will not cause a problem. It is important to use a puller to remove the front pully from the crank it is stuck. I have a small battery powered 3/8th rattle gun which I use on the idler bolts but turn it down before using. I often recheck with a small power bar and always use a tread locking compound. One of the idlers also have a washer behind it which is easy to leave out causing overtightening. Do you have a closer picture of the crack? Cheers

 

[Tommyk]

Thanks for the reply's fellas, i managed to get a second hand oil pump from Venom (toyota wanted $635 for a new one) I dont have any photos of the crack in the old pump but i found out it was caused by me not putting a washer behind the idler. The crack was through the main oil gallery of the pump.
Anyways the motor is now installed in my Toyota surf and wired up, i ran it this arvo and everything worked sweet and most importantly no more leaks haha.

Thanks for the help everyone

 

[gloverman]

I was wondering if it was that troublesome washer. It is very easy to miss and the tensioner locks solid against the housing. Toyota have been using random washers like this for years. Some new tensioners come with the washer hold onto the mounting bolt with a small o-ring so it can't be missed. Good to hear you have got it sorted. What model surf are you doing? Cheers Kelvin