Pulley change for my 4.7S/C tundra

[axle69]

Hello all. I finished installing my S/C on my 2000 Tundra. I love it, but I'm only getting 4.5lbs boost. I'd like to increase that to 6 or 7. Can I do it with a pulley change? If so where would I order one and what size?
Thanks

 

[axle69]

Anybody? Would love to put a smaller pulley on.

 

[i20rider]

Your not going to get anny love here. Id hit up a tundra forum.

Sorry

 

[JBrady]

Your not going to get anny love here. Id hit up a tundra forum.

Sorry

Hmmm... why is that? The 2uzfe is right in line with this forum. Too bad if true.

Anyway, I would be VERY carefull running more boost as the connecting rods are not known to be reliable. Also without outstanding tuning the newer engines have minimal space between the piston tops and the first ringland. This is common on most newer engines as it reduces the trap area for unburned fuel and is done to reduce emissions. That said it also makes the piston much less durable under increased combustion temperatures.

My recommendation is to continue to "love" your current combination... obtain a "spare" engine (a spare transmission is a good plan as well). Rebuild the spare engine with boost friendly pistons and rods. Once completed swap this boost friendly engine into the truck and THEN you can explore higher boost performance. In addition begin studying and learning about fuel and spark control so that you will be able to choose and either tune or have tune to support your goals, project, addiction!

Oh, and save the now "spare" original engine. Just because you have a "built" engine does not guarantee it will not have a failure... due to tuning problems and or an overlooked assembly issue.

Now, in consideration of your first question. Yes, a pulley change will change your boost. A smaller supercharger pulley... a larger crank pulley... or both will increase your boost. Most usually just do the smaller supercharger pulley although belt slippage can become an issue. As far as pulley sizing there are online calculators... do a search as there are many considerations worth reading about on that subject.

 

[Spinnetti]

Hmmm... why is that? The 2uzfe is right in line with this forum. Too bad if true.

Anyway, I would be VERY carefull running more boost as the connecting rods are not known to be reliable. Also without outstanding tuning the newer engines have minimal space between the piston tops and the first ringland. This is common on most newer engines as it reduces the trap area for unburned fuel and is done to reduce emissions. That said it also makes the piston much less durable under increased combustion temperatures.

My recommendation is to continue to "love" your current combination... obtain a "spare" engine (a spare transmission is a good plan as well). Rebuild the spare engine with boost friendly pistons and rods. Once completed swap this boost friendly engine into the truck and THEN you can explore higher boost performance. In addition begin studying and learning about fuel and spark control so that you will be able to choose and either tune or have tune to support your goals, project, addiction!

Oh, and save the now "spare" original engine. Just because you have a "built" engine does not guarantee it will not have a failure... due to tuning problems and or an overlooked assembly issue.

Now, in consideration of your first question. Yes, a pulley change will change your boost. A smaller supercharger pulley... a larger crank pulley... or both will increase your boost. Most usually just do the smaller supercharger pulley although belt slippage can become an issue. As far as pulley sizing there are online calculators... do a search as there are many considerations worth reading about on that subject.

Good info - also, engines today are much higher compression than the old days, which isn't boost friendly without careful tuning; might blow an engine or two unless you are doing all this with a good ecu and lots of dyno time. If you want it bad enough, just have a machine shop whip one up for you. Orthadox will prolly do it, then see what goes boom..... my car has been making more than twice its rated power for 70k miles and almost 30psi peak boost, but it was turbo to start with... 4psi seems to be about the norm for non-forced induction engines without a bunch more engineering required, so don't do it if you are worried about blowing the whole mess up......

 

[i20rider]

I gave up on the uz. Time to go LS. Make more powerw for 1/4 the price.

As much as i would love to see another quick first gen. Its just not gona happen with out a shit load of $$$$$$$

 

[JBrady]

Tuning on an LS is much cheaper. Heads, cams, pistons, etc much cheaper on an LS. Other than that a first gen 1uzfe with a decently designed turbo system is going to be cheaper than doing an engine swap and getting that running with factory smoothness and reliability. The turbo 1uz route is good for 500rwhp when properly tuned so it depends on the long term goals. Several 1000hp 1uz's have been built.

If I was to start from scratch with a vehicle that came from the factory with a 32valve V8 I would most likely start with a Ford Coyote 5.0 crate engine. 450hp stock with good aftermarket support. Will also be able to look like a factory installation if done properly.

Unfortunately, Toyota products have un-tunable factory ECU's which presents the biggest downside IMO. On a Lexus V8 the ability to tune the engine, raise the RPM limiter and tune the transmission shifting pattern would open up a very decent option. Of course that isn't going to happen.