overheating gremlin

[400ZED]

Hi guys it has been a couple years since i have posted but now i need help.

I replaced the engine and put in new cams NA car and it never ran very cool bit of a head gasket leak eventually it got bad and i gave it new ACL head gaskets and skimmed the heads. since then it has useda a lot of water run hot and then when it gets low it really starts to warm up.

i run a big alloy radiator with the hydralic fan.

i have checked with and with out thermostat i have replaced thermostats.
i just pulled the water pump off it looks like new i was hoping to find blades missing cause then i could just get a new one
i have bled and re bled the system in ever manner i can think of.
i have changed coolants to redline expensive additive meant to make things run 10 degrees cooleer.
i have done long diastance highway work to keep the air flow up.
it has no water leaks but in 1 hour it went through 6 litres of water.
i have tested for head gasket leaks and it is clean. system pressure tested fine.

what could it be??? any sujestions.

how do i fix it

 

[rms]

Hi guys it has been a couple years since i have posted but now i need help.

I replaced the engine and put in new cams NA car and it never ran very cool bit of a head gasket leak eventually it got bad and i gave it new ACL head gaskets and skimmed the heads. since then it has useda a lot of water run hot and then when it gets low it really starts to warm up.

i run a big alloy radiator with the hydralic fan.

i have checked with and with out thermostat i have replaced thermostats.
i just pulled the water pump off it looks like new i was hoping to find blades missing cause then i could just get a new one
i have bled and re bled the system in ever manner i can think of.
i have changed coolants to redline expensive additive meant to make things run 10 degrees cooleer.
i have done long diastance highway work to keep the air flow up.
it has no water leaks but in 1 hour it went through 6 litres of water.
i have tested for head gasket leaks and it is clean. system pressure tested fine.

what could it be??? any sujestions.

how do i fix it

Can only think of 2 more items.

1 The thermostat outlet should be connected to the bottom of the radiator (it is water into the engine not water out)

2 Head gaskets have been fitted to the wrong cyl bank allowing flow to the rear cyls to be restricted. ( gasket should have been marked LH, RH)

 

[Lextreme II]

I was told by someone into high performance cars. When you run high volume radiator, the fluid has less time/surface area to cool and therefore decreasing its cooling ability. Try putting in a stock radiator and see if the temperature change. If you increase radiator fluid volume (by increasing radiator size) without increasing cooling fans CFM, you might have this problem. I would suggest putting back the thermostat and stock radiator and see.

Second thing that could cause that would be clot somewhere in the water passage. Too more silicone sealant on the waterpump can cause that.

 

[Nick M]

On the subject of radiators, those new aluminum ones do not cool better. The R value is better for transfer with copper/brass. Which is why it is used. Aluminum radiators are now used for weight reduction. You can make a bigger radiator with more radiation capability, without it weighing more.

I think he also has an engine problem, not a cooling system problem.

 

[WDoherty]

if you went through 6 liters of water without any leaks it sounds like coolant is getting into the combustion chamber. Poor seal between heads and block, hole in coolant passageway in block or head?

 

[Just Crazy]

Sounding silly, I had a gremlin with My SC-400 and overheating.

In MA, We need a front plate and I bolted it on hanging down (blocking 60% of the air flow) DO you have a front plate?

 

[400ZED]

the water flows the right way i was curious about that. when running the top of the radiator is hot to touch the bottom is cold. as the thermostat picks up water from the bottom of the radiator could it be too cool and always closing.
i doubt it caus when i pulled the thermostat out just after shut down it was open.

coolant was checked for leaks holds pressure and no exhaust gase in the coolant.
Quote Nick M
"I think he also has an engine problem, not a cooling system problem."

what sort of engine problem could cause such a problem?

i thought about the head gaskets going on the wriong side but i think they are the same and i remember trying to be carefull.

Does anyone know for sure if they are not the same??

Nick as you rightley said copper/brass conducts better it is the lead that joins the fins to the core that insulates the fins( relativley) there is research into eliminating the lead and fusing the fins to the cores then they will be far superior.

thanks for your thoughts keep em coming

 

[Moondog]

Does it get hotter @ idle, or stop and go, or highway?

Where is the water going? Overflow, on the ground, or out the tailpipe? "what sort of engine problem could cause such a problem?"
-> over-advanced timing, Plugged catalytic converter to name two

 

[Zuffen]

Could you have aleak in the heater matrix that is dropping to the bottom of the heater and draining through the drain onto the road?

This way you wouldn't see any leak.

Although a pressure test should show it up.

 

[rms]

i thought about the head gaskets going on the wriong side but i think they are the same and i remember trying to be carefull.

Does anyone know for sure if they are not the same??

Head gaskets definatly NOT the same, the water passages front (small) and rear (large) are different.

 

[400ZED]

Cheers RMS is the difference much. do you think it could be giving me the problem i have?

Does anyone have a set of ACL head gaskets that they can tell me what is on the tabs of the left and right one???

there is a tab that pokes out from between head gasket and block. i will look at it and talk to ACl and see what it means I think it identifie the part number.


i had the gaskets off and on a few times trying while figuring out how to attach the heads with the block in the car. i will look at it. I just want to find a problem i don't care how hard it is to fix. better than having no idea.

 

[Moondog]

Is your heater working? I know it's summer over there. But if your heater is working, that would eliminate air pockets in the cooloing system.

 

[rms]

there is a tab that pokes out from between head gasket and block. i will look at it and talk to ACl and see what it means I think it identifie the part number.

Toyota gaskets tabs poke out the back of the block on both banks. I assume ACL are the same. Cometic gaskets are marked LH & RH.

 

[400ZED]

heater is disconnected but i did blead the system thriough it cheers.

Acl just got back to me with the codes on the current production run i am yet to read what mine say.

cheers guys

 

[400ZED]

has any one had experience with electric water pump from davis craig. they flow 110l /min and have a temperature controlled variable flow.

they just plumb into the radiator hose i think.
I was a bit worried about quick warm up as you won't have continous flow through the motor unless it was through the radiator and it would take too long to warm up then.
any thoughts?

 

[1uzvl]

the motor has a internal bypass which can easily be seen on the t/stat as it has a round plate on the bottom of it so as when it gets hot and the t/stat opens it blocks of the bypass.Most modern engine use this and is also why its not a got idea to pull them out

 

[Peewee]

EWP will not solve the problem, probably make it worse.

When was the last time the radiator was checked for blockage?

What are the chances that its running lean? (there is a point between safe and dangerous when it comes to running lean that will heat the coolant significantly.)