Oil Jets

[Lextreme II]

Here is frontal view of a typical 1uzfe block. Noticed the oil gallery indicated in red circle. This oil gallery runs from the front of the block to the rear. The oil nozzles are tap on the path of the oil gallery. Do u notice the picture below the engine is upside down? The ground is on top. No we were not in Australia or the Down Under.....

 

[autronic]

Looks fantastic, I'm ready for mine...

 

[cribbj]

^^^^Agreed. Now the Supra guys can not say anything. They kept harping on us saying the motor will not make over 800HP with out oil jets, but whats up now heheheheheeeeeee

Sniper remember there are a few Supra guys here, who are pulling the 2JZ motors out and putting 1UZ's in. :veryhappy

We could spend $10K on a stroker kit for the 2JZ and get 3.4 litres, or spend around the same amount on a 1UZ conversion and get 4.0 litres. The 1UZ may not produce the peak HP of the 2JZ (yet), but it has a much nicer torque curve down low, especially when supercharged.

Some of the 2JZ diehards would call us turncoats, but IMHO given the choice between torque and horsepower, I'll take torque anyday, especially for a heavy pig like the MKIV Supra.

John

 

[username]

David,

How thick is the block before you hit the oil galley? It looks pretty thin (eg no room for drill-tap). This may end up being a pan-head rivot project.
Have you had a chance to check crank clearance yet?

 

[Tex]

hard to tell from pics how thick it is but i'm willing to bet there's enough wall thickness to get enough threads cut. but i'd still put some teflon tape and thread locker in there.


edit: i'd use a pipe tap.

 

[lowboost]

dont use teflon!

how will it build up enough pressure to spray up underneath the pistons? is the oil gallery pressurized? how much if so? what will we be taking the oil from having sent to the oil jets? I love this idea, it will make a rod less likely to throw out of the block like I've seen with the tundra motors.

Jeff

 

[cribbj]

Before this mod turns into the end-all fix for whatever ails your motor, remember these jets are all about piston cooling and it will probably only serve those who are turboing or SC'ing their 1UZ. If you're staying NA, there's not much need for this.

Regarding mounting and sealing these squirters, if there's not enough meat in that web to get at least five threads well anchored, then it's time to weld bosses into the web for these to mount to. I can't imagine anything much worse than installing these to protect the pistons, then destroying the motor when one of them comes loose and starts banging around.


Maybe one reason Lexus didn't provide squirters on the 1UZ or 3UZ blocks is that the web is just too thin for good anchoring. And these blocks are aluminum, whereas the 2UZ blocks are cast iron, and there's less chance of these pulling, or vibrating out. Hmmm, maybe bosses AND helicoils wouldn't be a bad idea :veryhappy

Let's see what David has to say about the thickness of the block in that area....

John

 

[Lextreme II]

The oil gallery is not that thick at all. However, i still feel there is enough thread to use a short screw on it. From the position of the nozzles, it not only cool the piston but also the cylinder wall. Again, the nozzle still have some adjustability. Its also possible that 2005 2uzfe have a special mounting anchor for the mounting hole.

I dont know that until i can see some picture of it.

 

[striker]

Well,

Seems to me that, if one was to go for this all the way, one would also be willing to pay a few extra "weld in alloy blocks" for the check-valve part to sit in.
and have these special blocks threaded (or DIY offcourse) to accept sufficient enough bolt to secure the squirter itself. because indeed god forbid one commes loose!
The blocks must then be offcourse welded onto the oil gallery after which these squirters are simply bolted down onto the blocks
Never trust casted alloy for securing loaded (presurized-oil = very strong) parts inside an engine when they are not at least 7mm thick in the area where the thread is applied, (9mm would be even safer bet)

seems like a good idea, but if your pistons aint melting then why bother, first get better pistons then start thinking on the cooling of them.

also make super sure you're cooling the piston bottom and not the Rod, so pointing the squirter the right direction is also vital, otherwise the bore/rod/wristpin oiling might be altered which is what you don't want to happen.

Btw there are numurous company's that do exactly this to VW beetle engines after putting turbo's on them, seems there's no real need to souping up the oil pump. as long as feed is taken from the main gallery (ie the gallery the Gauge sensor sits in) so you do not get false readings and the reading is still in factory specs. test and try!

grtz Thomas

 

[username]

There are many ways to fasten these other than threads. Clearance is the question that is causing me pause.

 

[Lextreme II]

I think the best way to do this would be install the pistons/rods and crank first. Rotate the assembly few times to see if there is any intererence. If no interference, then it should be safe to install.

Secondly, if you look at the pictures above. The direction of the nozzle is NOT straight up. Its some curve and angled toward the sleeve. Depending what cycle of the rotation, the sleeve and pistons wil get spray with oil. The rod will most likely wont get any spray. However, the pin, piston, rings and sleeve will get spray on.

There are many ways to mount this thing. Welding might not be an option. Why? The block is alumihum and the nozzle is stainless steel. However, this welding idea might not be bad for the 2UZFE block. With 11/32" drill bit and the insert part of the nozzle is slightly larger (.015") so with a slight knock the nozzle will lock tight.

Other method would weld an aluminum round nut under the gallery and screw the nozzel into the round nut. That would be the best bet for strong hold.

 

[cribbj]

David, I wasn't proposing to weld the squirters directly to the block! I was talking about building up that area of the web by adding weld metal, just to get some more thickness, then drilling & tapping normally. Of course welding an aluminum nut there is an option, too.

It sure would be interesting to get an upskirt photo of a 2005 2UZ-FE :veryhappy

John

 

[Lextreme II]

Hey John,

Great idea... Damn you guys are mechanically incline.... By the way, I dont have an engineering degree and I dont have any formal mechanical training. However, its great to exchange ideas.

I think John idea would be great. However we also need to be careful not getting too thick of aluminum plate where it might interfere with the rotating assembly. I will get a piece of aluminum and try it for show.... The best would be getting a slightly curve like 1" diameter do it will mount directly to the gallery contour.

 

[striker]

hey John, lextreme,

Thats exactly what I meant.

make up an adaptor where the squirter mounts into really good, and after that weld the alloy squirter ousing in the right place in the inside of the valley under the gallery, drill a tiny oil hole to get oil from the gallery into the adaptor, and drill the adaptor the right way to get the oil into the squirter. et voila, neat strong and probably easiest job to get things going.

grtz Thomas

sorry sometimes my english aint all that, (dutchie over here)

 

[Cobolt]

Well,

seems like a good idea, but if your pistons aint melting then why bother, first get better pistons then start thinking on the cooling of them.

Why bother?

Melting pistons isn´t the biggest problem here, one could already get 1000+ hp without oilsquirters, but if we want to build a engine for a streetdriven car or a daily driver, we definetly need oil squirters to be able to run with steetengine clearences, not preheated raceengine clearences.

 

[striker]

hey cobolt,

That's axactly what I meant, If you can have 1000hp without them, then why bother if you're not running a 1000hp on your daily driver.
I've mingled around with a large amount of different engines and the ones I do not want to drive on the streetcars are the ones build up with race-use-clearance because they allways fail/brakedown/get blownup when driven normally around town. so in that case you might be good mountening oilsquirters in the block and not running a tight engine.

grtz Thomas

 

[Cobolt]

Striker <<

Many N/A engines with <100 bhp/litre have OEM mounted oil squirters to be able to run tighter clearences. Most people in here is aiming at 150-250bhp/litre wich IMHO makes oil squirters a must (for durability).

 

[Lextreme II]

I think its a good insurance and its a cheap insurance. Part and labor might cost about 100 USD.

 

[Zuffen]

I would mount them exactly as Mr Toyota does.

If he's happy with the durability of his mounting system I would folow it.

Toyota are not going to mount them so badly they fall out or strip the thred out of the block. Think of the warranty claims not to mention the bad press.

 

[cribbj]

Only one problem with that Rod, Mr. Toyota doesn't put these in his aluminum block UZ's. Only the cast iron UZ's.

Hmmm, I wonder if he knows something that we don't?

John