Oil Filter Adaptor???

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rivmasta

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Sydney
Hey all,

We're finally dropping the engine in the racecar (trans has finally arrived!) and have come across instant issue which Im hoping everyone on here says "oh thats and easy fix!"....

The oil filter adaptor hangs the oil filter quite low and it fouls on the skidplate. Anyone know of an adaptor where I can remote mount an oil filter?

cheers, Riv.
 
Hey all,

We're finally dropping the engine in the racecar (trans has finally arrived!) and have come across instant issue which Im hoping everyone on here says "oh thats and easy fix!"....

The oil filter adaptor hangs the oil filter quite low and it fouls on the skidplate. Anyone know of an adaptor where I can remote mount an oil filter?

cheers, Riv.

Yes that is an easy fix, there are a couple of different engine oil filter mounting plates

different models of engines have different oil filter locations
as an example the crown engine I have has a.... ahhh...... I'll find a picture it's hard to explain
 
Ive searched the site and found that pretty much all of the brackets position the oil filter a long way from the block which makes it pretty prone to rocks. So were gonna do david's trick: Make our own plate, tap it and run an external oil filter and probably a cooler as well.

Next question is is the standarad oil pump up to the challenge? anyone?
 
This is the standard oil filter location (red arrow below PS exhaust)
oil2.jpg

This what I ended up doing. cuting the steal oil lines and silver brazing nipples on
oil3.jpg

And this is where the other end of the original oil filter ended up.
oil4.jpg


Hope this help's
 
I actually wasnt going to bother with the thermostat - as its a race motor it sits on the grid warming up for ages before it gets peaked, caned and its neck wrung for the next 2 hours.

Would the thermostat be needed in my app?

David, cheers for the pics - my hetro life partner that I own the car with is in the process of making it today.

v8 - cheers mate, but our plan is now worked out -

10mm mild steel tapped with fittings to braided line into external oil filter mounted on side of chassis into earls (or similar) 7 row cooler mounted vertically behind the drivers head and back to the plate. All up more $$$ than I wanted to spend, but in offroad its gotta be bulletproof, and with Davids plate example when the time comes to change engines (prob 3MZ) we can still use the setup, just change the plate.

This means its going to be pumping the oil approx 400mm (about 16 inches) above the sump - will the oil pump be OK with is?

Also, as the car will sit for a while between runs Ive hooked the starter and gauges up to the battery isoloator switch so I can pump the oil pressure up before firing the car, but Im still about worried about the capabilities of the pump...
 
Remember if you take the power of the ECU it will have to re-learn how you drive to get the best out of the engine.

Ensure there is always power on the ECU.

I know that runs across the concept of cutting all power to the vehicle with the isolator switch.

I'd look at a small rechargable 12volt battery, like a motorcycle battery, to keep the ECU powered up when the the isolator switch is off. This means you could cut all power to the car, including the power to the small battery, but keep the ECU alive.

16" above sump level is not problem. With 100PSI oil pressure you'd be able to pump the oil 30' straight up.
 
But Rod! The isolator is supposed to switch off EVERYTHING! CAMS and the scruitneer say so! What a suggestion! The shock! The horror!

Funny though, I miswired the ECU power by putting the ECU fuse to the wrong side of the isolator switch! Oh. Damn. Whats that wire doing there. :)

Not that it matters much with the EMS Dualsport we're running as its not very lambda friendly anyway (8860 is about 12 months away).

thanks for info on the pump, youve allowed me to sleep a bit easier.
 
I cant say for sure if you need a thermostat for a race car....You definately would for a road car. My understanding is that engine oil, unlike transmission oil changes properties drastically with temperature change. The danger of running a thermostat-less cooler is that the engine oil will be too cold. Cold engine oil will do a lot more damage than too hot oil. Obviously if your running the car to high rpm's constantly for 2 hours...the temperatures in the engine are likely to be higher than that of normal road users. you can get away without a stat with a tranny cooler as the oils properties do not change significantly with temperature until you get up and over 180 degrees ish.

Elliot
 
never got around to making that plate... were gonna spend A$40 and buy one (and cheat!) instead. Actually, its 2 less connections we have to buy to.

We're also not going to worry about oil cooler at this stage (we just wanna go racing!) If after we test theres a temp issue at extended high revs we'll look at it then.

thanks again all!
 
oops, back to square 1... evidently the adaptor bolts to the bottom of the oil filter bracket instead of to the block... bugga.

David, have you got any of the plates above for sale?
 
I think I have to make some more... Do u think there will be other interest? My cost is $20 each. If we can get few guys together we can order more. I made two for Cribbj and I. Didn't meant for others. Try to rally up some others so we can make one order.
 
I actually need it ASAP cause we want to do an engine fire in the next week or so. I was just wondering if you had any on the shelf actually!

Prob easiest if we just make up our own on Saturday.

cheers anyway!
 
I cant say for sure if you need a thermostat for a race car....You definately would for a road car. My understanding is that engine oil, unlike transmission oil changes properties drastically with temperature change. The danger of running a thermostat-less cooler is that the engine oil will be too cold. Cold engine oil will do a lot more damage than too hot oil. Obviously if your running the car to high rpm's constantly for 2 hours...the temperatures in the engine are likely to be higher than that of normal road users. you can get away without a stat with a tranny cooler as the oils properties do not change significantly with temperature until you get up and over 180 degrees ish.

Elliot

no, hot oil is definitely more dangerous than cold. sure, if you plant if when cold, you will do a lot of damage. but if you plant it when the oil is super hot(as in overheating), the oil will break down and you will lose the oil film and grab a bearing, at full power. then you can say goodbye.

cold oil still has a lubricating film.
 
Lextreme,
thought I'd drag this up, as I too would like a plate if you are doing a batch anytime.
Put me on a list please, and PM me.
thanks,
aaron
 


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