No fuel no spark, engine cranks

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Drain

New Member
I have a 95 sc400 that I have rebuilt; broken valve engine will crank and I am sure my grounds are all good. The spark plugs have no spark on either bank and I do not hear the fuel pump engage at all. Starter will crank the engine but it will not fire. The only wiring I have done to the vehicle is wiring in electrical fans to the ign switch. Where should I start to fix this problem? I have no CEL so I wonder if it is the ecu.
 
If the CEL isn't lighting up, then the ECU isn't switching on... or is malfunctioning.

Start with the basics in order - battery - fuse - ECU - earth
Ensure you have +B constant (BATT terminal)
Ensure you have +12V with the ignition switch turned on (IGSW terminal, +B and +B1)
Check all the ECU grounds have good connection to ground
 
If the CEL isn't lighting up, then the ECU isn't switching on... or is malfunctioning.

Start with the basics in order - battery - fuse - ECU - earth
Ensure you have +B constant (BATT terminal)
Ensure you have +12V with the ignition switch turned on (IGSW terminal, +B and +B1)
Check all the ECU grounds have good connection to ground
Thanks for the advice Bateman. I found out the ecu wasn’t completely plugged in with the harness (don’t let your friends plug in your ecu)
CEL came on and I was able to diagnose cam sensors and crank sensor. Got it on order right now
 
Thanks for the advice Bateman. I found out the ecu wasn’t completely plugged in with the harness (don’t let your friends plug in your ecu)
CEL came on and I was able to diagnose cam sensors and crank sensor. Got it on order right now
Starting this thread back up

Replaced camshaft sensor, crank sensor, and crank sensor plug which looked fouled and I still have code 13, I cleaned 1 cam sensor and the code 12 I had went away so I know the left cam is good.
Any ideas on where I should go next?
 
DTC 13 is caused by the crank sensor cutting out while the engine is running, or logical errors in the pulse count the ECU is receiving from crank and cam sensors. If you have replaced the sensors, it likely to be a poor connection (open or short circuit) in the wiring between sensors and ECU, or your timing belt was not installed correctly during the repairs you've done.

Double check the timing belt is installed correctly
Use a multimeter to check resistance from each terminal of your sensors back to the ECU. All resistance reading should be less than 1 ohm.
Anything more indicates a poor connection or open circuit

Possibly not the diagram for your vehicle but this is what you'll need to test.

Untitled.jpg
 
Starting this thread back up

Replaced camshaft sensor, crank sensor, and crank sensor plug which looked fouled and I still have code 13, I cleaned 1 cam sensor and the code 12 I had went away so I know the left cam is good.
Any ideas on where I should go next?
Update:

Removed random electrical tape on right cam connector, found multiple wires which are corroded green that lead to this unknown connector.
The brown and green wire come from the cam connector
DTC 13 is caused by the crank sensor cutting out while the engine is running, or logical errors in the pulse count the ECU is receiving from crank and cam sensors. If you have replaced the sensors, it likely to be a poor connection (open or short circuit) in the wiring between sensors and ECU, or your timing belt was not installed correctly during the repairs you've done.

Double check the timing belt is installed correctly
Use a multimeter to check resistance from each terminal of your sensors back to the ECU. All resistance reading should be less than 1 ohm.
Anything more indicates a poor connection or open circuit

Possibly not the diagram for your vehicle but this is what you'll need to test.

View attachment 25907
I will do that test when I get home, thanks for the input.

The 6 pin connector that the cam sensors end up into is cracked and 3 plugs in the connector are loose and corroded. I’m going to try and replace that after i check the resistance
 


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