New to jap V8's

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Thanks for that.
I found some info to do the job the only other question is. Is the fuel pump feed that comes out of the ECU a tachometric signal (cranking signal) or is it on all the time in which case i should fit a safety sw:pat: :pat: :pat:
 
G'day all,
i have finished all the wiring and test fired it today. BUT. If i spray fuel into the intake it runs and stops as soon as it has burned up so obviuosly the injectors aren't supplying fuel. Also the fuel pump isnt working through the ecu so i powered it direct to get the fuel up so i do have fuel at the rails. I have obviously missed a wire somewhere but with the limited details that i have i can't seem to find anything. The engine is a 92 model by the plug leads and the ECU has 1 large plug with a bolt in the middle and a smaller plug which seems to be the one with all the power conn on it. There semms to be 2 wires that are for the fuel pump ECU by the pinout diagram that i have but doesn't tell me if they are power from or power to or earth the relay for continuity etc.
Anyone got any ideas or suggestions.


PS i haven't set the fuel pumps with the 2 speed setup. I have 2 fuel pumps, one low pressure to the surge tank and the high pressure one next. Both are wired together.
Thanks
 
i would not bother using fuel pump triggers of that ecu
if u want to do itt properly u need a fuel pump ecu for that engine

otherwise i just use a tachometric relay to trigger another relay which in turn
powers the pump

by the time u sit down and figure out what Di and fpr or fc does on the soarer ecu u can wire up a tacho relay
on the soarer ecus there is no actual wire that turns a relay on or off
its a pulse or somethng similar tha sends signal to feul pump ecu

so piss it off and run a tacho relay

reason yr injectors wont work can be anyhting

check for main things like 12v to injecotrs when cranking and also when ign is on

without looking at what u have done its hard to say what is wrong
 
Thanks for the response guys. Sideshow i will wire in a safety switch that i use for gas conversions tommorow and that should solve that problem. I've done some more tests since posting this question earlier today and yes i have power at the injectors all the time but only seems to get a trigger signal when cranking over but as soon as you let the key go so does the signal to the injectors. The only wires i have on the start relay are the starter wires so it's got me stuffed why it only gets the signal only when cranking.
 
maybe u have broken wire on igf signal return from ignitors to ecu

or maybe u have bad ignitors

the returning igf sgnal fom ignitors tell the ecu to fire the injectors

the start relay if wired in worng will not cause engine to not start

it just causes low rev limits like 2500 on some ecus
 
If the igniters were bad why would it run while cranking. I hooked up a test light to one of the injector plugs and it has a signal while cranking and as soon as i let go the key the signal seems to drop off. There is a twin wire plug at the front of the engine with a single black / orange wire in it which is powered with the injectors and it has something that looks like it might be a broken sensor plugged into it but i can't see anywhere that it has been. All the components for the ignition are in place so i don't know what else was at the front of the motor originally.
I'll go and have another play today
 
There is a noise supressor on the LHF of the engine beside the lower coil with a black orange wire. Could that be what is missing? Won't stop it going though. Sounds like you might have a stuffed coil. I have seen it many times and lots off these engines get pulled from cars because of simple problems. Have you got any way of running up a coil on the bench? If the ECU doesn't get it's feedback signal from the ignitor it will not pulse the injectors. Good luck
 
get a can of aero start

spray it down throttlebody when cranking and see if it runs smoothly
and if it stops when if enigne stops when u stop spraying aureostart

if it runs smoothly on airestart then yr coil and leads side of things is ok

then u are right that the injectors are not pulsing when running

i recon u have stuffed up yr ignition switch wiring

so u have power to the ecu or injectors when cranking but not when ign on

if this wiring is ok and the enigne runs smoothly on aerostart then sounds like u might have a major prob elsewhere

can u test yr ecu in another car

if injectors work when cranking but not when running i doubt u have wiring prob unless u totally stuffed somehting up

send me the loom and ill test it for you

otherwise yr on your own now

without looking at it i dont know what it could be

start testing for codes pull out the multimeter

just like i told another guy on here if it starts first go its good

but 90% of people on forums who try things by them selves know jack **** about diagnosing stuff

anyway ive tried enough im off to do some work
 
Well i think i might have narrowed the problem down to the fact that the motor is f@#$%D. I decided to pull the plugs and did a comp test. Well the two l/h rear cylinders didm't even flicker the needle on the comp gauge all the others were between 220 & 240psi. I took the rocker cover off and the cams were rusted very badly and the valves were stuck open. Not bad seeing as it was bought as a good running low mileage motor and this is the second one they sent me. The first one had water in the 2 middle cylinders r/h side. So now i have to wait on these wankers again to send another motor and hopefull it will be third time lucky.
Anyway thanks for the help guy's and i'll keep you posted
 
Well finally got another motor. Only took 2 weeks to get it from Melb to Adel. Spent the last few days swapping the engines and the loom. As soon as the fuel was up turned the key and fired straight away and sat there and idled:banana: :banana: :banana: . It was running very rich but i sussed out that i stuffed up with the surge tank and the return line is pressurised as i have it returning to the surge tank. Slight plumbing mod tommorow should sort it out finally. Now i might be able to get on with the rest of the build.
Thanks to everyone that responded with answers to my questions
 
Well modified the return line but it is still running very rich. The fuel pump i am running pumps about 30 psi more than stock but would have thought the regulator would still reduce to normal pressure. I will check pressure tommorow and also double check the return line pressure as it is only 1/4" line but would have thought that it would have been big enough??. The other thing i should mention is that i only start and run for less than a minute as i don't have the cooling system hooked up yet. Could this be a cause?? I have disconnected the plug to the cold start injector but made no difference. I will try disconnecting the fuel to CSI tommorow as well. Any other ideas to check????
 
is it rich enough where u can see alot of black smoke out the exhaust

bigger fuel pumps should not worry it too much
slight increase in fuel pressure wont affect to much
but if u can check it and if its around 38 to 42 then it should be fine

if fuel press is ok then for a 1uz to run rich enough to cause problems the main prob would be the air flow meter or a vac leak
i have seen breaks in wiring to air flow when loom hs been striped more than needed
check to se if one wire think blue with red trace has 5 volts also check
to see u have bolted the engine loom earths

bad o2 sensors wont affect it too much

even if the wiring to ecu is not 100 % the main thing that might make it run rich is the start wire signal but i dont think toyotas run rich if this is wired wrong

they are pretty basic engines
 
Haven't had time to check things yet but started it a couple of times on Sunday and always rich. Went to start it again and started but only on a few cylinders and wouldn't keep going. Disconnected one coil at a time to see if it was a coil but both worked sort of. Tried again tonight but hardly fired so i pulled a plug and was wet so obviuosly over fueling for some reason. I did change the regulator but will have to wait for it to dry out for a while. I did notice that the safety switch i have connected for the fuel pump which is not connected to the ECU at all works fine but as soon as i connect a black and orange wire that needs to be connected to power for motor to start( will trace it tommorow if i get time) the safety switch stays activated all the time. It's got me stuffed as apart from running rich it was running fine and smooth and reving out well. Anyway hope to have time tommorow to have a play
 
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