Need a Megasquirt III map!
- Thread starter bartledoo
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Let's see if I can answer all of these.
1.G2 is the correct cam sensor.
2.I did not and would not try to use the stock AFM because a map sensor comes with the megasquirt and all you have to do is run a vacuum hose from the manifold to the ecu.
3.You could probably run the stock injector wiring, but it is so easy to add a few wires and make it sequential that it is definitely worth it.
4.I am running parallel ecu but not sharing any sensors. The GM open element IAT sensor was only $22 and the stock coolant sensor will only be needed for the megasquirt ecu.
Yea my heater doesn't work. I'm not sure if the ecu's two-wire coolant sensor and the cluster's coolant sensor share the same thread size, but if they do, you could remove the cluster's sensor and replace it with another two-wire unit for the megasquirt. Then you could run an output to the cluster from the megasquirt to keep the coolant temp gauge working. Might be more work than it's worth though.
The vac tube runs through the grommet with the harnesses so just use a sturdy hose and it's no problem.
I can confirm that the Toyota sensor designation works for the coolant sensor but I don't know about the IAT because I used GM. Let me know if you need any other info. Are you using stock dual distributor ignition?
You are correct. You do not have to add anything to the circuits for crank/cam. The reason for so many grounds is that the DB37 pins can only hold a small gauge wire so a number of them are needed to safely ground all of the current running through the ecu. The ecu actually has a lot more current grounded through it than it draws on its own. I soldered all of the grounds wire from the main and expansion DB37's to a couple of terminals and locked them onto the intake manifold. Something like 20ga for the injectors would be fine. If you ever aren't sure just use the gauge that the harnesses on DIYAUTOTUNE use for that I/O. Can you export those fuel and timing tables to file and email them to [email protected] so I can see which ones you have? I have made a lot of changes to them, especially the timing so I don't remember which ones you have. I still have one change to make on the fuel table for WOT. The A/F goes up to just below 13.5 from 3500-4500 and I could get some more torque if I brought it down to about 12.8-13.0. I just haven't done it but I think I will this week. It's just kind of annoying because it is hard to drive and tune. I had my buddy do the base map while I drove on the first running day. Then I did any further tuning myself from then out.
I would recommend running new wiring for the cam/crank signals and using shielded wire grounded through the ms3 because those are the most significant aspects of getting a reliable standalone setup. If there are any sync problems, they will most likely be caused by some kind of signal noise. Also I would ground everything to a single point on the chassis or block because good grounds are the other thing that can be a problem. On these older cars, if you can't see the whole of the wiring you are splicing into, then you really have no way of knowing the condition of it. So, it's best to redo as much as you can. It really doesn't take long, and it goes without saying that if you do that then you might as well run the 8 wires for grounding the injectors through the sequential inputs on the expansion card. I attached my most current VE and Spark tables as well.
Bushwhacker
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Hehe, it might help if you'd mention which ECU you're using?
Unfortunately if it's a stock ECU we can't help - Toyota locks them down pretty well.
Unfortunately if it's a stock ECU we can't help - Toyota locks them down pretty well.
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OK sorry I can't help with the map - I run an AEM, but there are some MS people here that can hopefully give you a hand. I did change the title of your thread a little to catch the eye of the MS crowd.
RJSzynal
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I'll be getting my ms3/x soon so this is very useful for me. Cheers
I have a few questions you may be able to help me with. First was which cam sensor to use but it seems G2 is the answer to that one.
I'm at work at the moment so I can't look at the map file yet but does it include the calibrations for the stock temp sensors? (I'm leaving the AFM in place to start with and just using THA signal from there)
when I get home I'll check this but, will I need to lay individual wires for the injectors or are they already in place?
Did you install the megasquirt parallel with the stock ECU to retain control of the other systems, and if so did you have any issues with sharing the sensors with it? I hear the temp sensors can sometimes be and issue.
As I say, I'll probably answer most of my questions myself when I get home. The difference in my setup is that it'll be completely stock otherwise including auto transmission. My stock ECU is dying and replacements are rare (I have a soarer) and I planned to get MS eventually anyway so I'm doing it first. Lol. I'll eventually install a GPIO as trans controller too.
Thanks
Robert
I have a few questions you may be able to help me with. First was which cam sensor to use but it seems G2 is the answer to that one.
I'm at work at the moment so I can't look at the map file yet but does it include the calibrations for the stock temp sensors? (I'm leaving the AFM in place to start with and just using THA signal from there)
when I get home I'll check this but, will I need to lay individual wires for the injectors or are they already in place?
Did you install the megasquirt parallel with the stock ECU to retain control of the other systems, and if so did you have any issues with sharing the sensors with it? I hear the temp sensors can sometimes be and issue.
As I say, I'll probably answer most of my questions myself when I get home. The difference in my setup is that it'll be completely stock otherwise including auto transmission. My stock ECU is dying and replacements are rare (I have a soarer) and I planned to get MS eventually anyway so I'm doing it first. Lol. I'll eventually install a GPIO as trans controller too.
Thanks
Robert
Let's see if I can answer all of these.
1.G2 is the correct cam sensor.
2.I did not and would not try to use the stock AFM because a map sensor comes with the megasquirt and all you have to do is run a vacuum hose from the manifold to the ecu.
3.You could probably run the stock injector wiring, but it is so easy to add a few wires and make it sequential that it is definitely worth it.
4.I am running parallel ecu but not sharing any sensors. The GM open element IAT sensor was only $22 and the stock coolant sensor will only be needed for the megasquirt ecu.
RJSzynal
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- Scunthorpe, England
Thanks for the quick answers. I plan on using only the air temp sensor in the AFM but not the Karman Vortex flow sensor as I'll be using the MAP sensor as you recommend.
I have the UZZ31 1991 Toyota Soarer which is fitted with climate control, it only turns on the heaters when the coolant reaches a high enough temperature so I guess I'll loose that. I can live with that though, I'll just manually control it until I eventually fit a carputer which will take over control.
It's looking like I'm all set for the arrival of my megasquirt now, I can't wait!
Is it easy to get the vac tube through the firewall? I assume I just route it through the rubber grommit along with the rest of the ECU wires.
Do I just setup the Megasquirt in the default way or are there any resistor values I need to change? My research seems to indicate that it'll work with the standard values.
Cheers
Robert
I have the UZZ31 1991 Toyota Soarer which is fitted with climate control, it only turns on the heaters when the coolant reaches a high enough temperature so I guess I'll loose that. I can live with that though, I'll just manually control it until I eventually fit a carputer which will take over control.
It's looking like I'm all set for the arrival of my megasquirt now, I can't wait!
Is it easy to get the vac tube through the firewall? I assume I just route it through the rubber grommit along with the rest of the ECU wires.
Do I just setup the Megasquirt in the default way or are there any resistor values I need to change? My research seems to indicate that it'll work with the standard values.
Cheers
Robert
Yea my heater doesn't work. I'm not sure if the ecu's two-wire coolant sensor and the cluster's coolant sensor share the same thread size, but if they do, you could remove the cluster's sensor and replace it with another two-wire unit for the megasquirt. Then you could run an output to the cluster from the megasquirt to keep the coolant temp gauge working. Might be more work than it's worth though.
The vac tube runs through the grommet with the harnesses so just use a sturdy hose and it's no problem.
I can confirm that the Toyota sensor designation works for the coolant sensor but I don't know about the IAT because I used GM. Let me know if you need any other info. Are you using stock dual distributor ignition?
RJSzynal
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- Scunthorpe, England
Yeah, I plan on running the stock dual distributors using the stock igniters. Hopefully using your map as a base will make my install a lot more straight forward.
Thanks for the help so far, I appreciate it.
Robert
Thanks for the help so far, I appreciate it.
Robert
RJSzynal
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- 19
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- Scunthorpe, England
The Megasquirt arrived yesterday while I was at work and I've spent around 12 hours constructing it.
I just have one or two questions before I move on to installing it in the car. Am I correct in thinking I don't need any pull-up resistors for the crank and cam VR sensors? There are about six ground wires on my DB37 pigtail, do I need to connect them all into a single ground wire? Whats the point in having so many wires? I didn't install Q16 as I'm using the MS3X for spark output to my stock ignitors, is that right? What gauge wires should I get for the injectors to wire them for sequential?
I have the latest firmware so when I imported your map it complained that I had definition file 0095.000 whereas the MSQ file is version 0091.000, it imported still though so it wasn't a major issue, I'll just have to double check everything before I try it in the car as it may have lost one or two settings.
I jumpered JS6 and JS8 to SPR1 and SPR2 to provide a CAN connection later on when I get a Megashift, that was interesting as the MAP sensor was on the underside and a stack of chip holders for the MS3 daughter board on the top. I managed to thread the wires just under the daughterboard but next time I would use the Protoboard area to pass it through to the top.
Otherwise, it all seems OK at this point. Fingers crossed the rest of the install goes as smoothly, These things never do though so I'm not getting my hopes up. lol
Cheers
Robert
I just have one or two questions before I move on to installing it in the car. Am I correct in thinking I don't need any pull-up resistors for the crank and cam VR sensors? There are about six ground wires on my DB37 pigtail, do I need to connect them all into a single ground wire? Whats the point in having so many wires? I didn't install Q16 as I'm using the MS3X for spark output to my stock ignitors, is that right? What gauge wires should I get for the injectors to wire them for sequential?
I have the latest firmware so when I imported your map it complained that I had definition file 0095.000 whereas the MSQ file is version 0091.000, it imported still though so it wasn't a major issue, I'll just have to double check everything before I try it in the car as it may have lost one or two settings.
I jumpered JS6 and JS8 to SPR1 and SPR2 to provide a CAN connection later on when I get a Megashift, that was interesting as the MAP sensor was on the underside and a stack of chip holders for the MS3 daughter board on the top. I managed to thread the wires just under the daughterboard but next time I would use the Protoboard area to pass it through to the top.
Otherwise, it all seems OK at this point. Fingers crossed the rest of the install goes as smoothly, These things never do though so I'm not getting my hopes up. lol
Cheers
Robert
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You are correct. You do not have to add anything to the circuits for crank/cam. The reason for so many grounds is that the DB37 pins can only hold a small gauge wire so a number of them are needed to safely ground all of the current running through the ecu. The ecu actually has a lot more current grounded through it than it draws on its own. I soldered all of the grounds wire from the main and expansion DB37's to a couple of terminals and locked them onto the intake manifold. Something like 20ga for the injectors would be fine. If you ever aren't sure just use the gauge that the harnesses on DIYAUTOTUNE use for that I/O. Can you export those fuel and timing tables to file and email them to [email protected] so I can see which ones you have? I have made a lot of changes to them, especially the timing so I don't remember which ones you have. I still have one change to make on the fuel table for WOT. The A/F goes up to just below 13.5 from 3500-4500 and I could get some more torque if I brought it down to about 12.8-13.0. I just haven't done it but I think I will this week. It's just kind of annoying because it is hard to drive and tune. I had my buddy do the base map while I drove on the first running day. Then I did any further tuning myself from then out.
Last edited:
RJSzynal
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- Scunthorpe, England
I have the tune you uploaded in post 7 of this thread, my initial target is to just get it hooked up and running before I worry about perfecting the tune.
I have the MS powered on ignition switched 12V and grounded through the earths at pins 79 and 80 of the stock ECU. The NE signal works great when being shared with the stock ECU but it seems my G2 sensor is faulty (my initial issue with the car as stock) as it stops giving any signal after 3200RPM and, once warm, under 800RPM. I spliced the MS into G1 to test it works and I get a working signal but the stock ECU doesn't! It seems I can't share the cam sensor but once I fully take over engine control that won't matter.
Is there a value I can change to get it timed correctly with the G1 sensor or am I going to have to take it all apart and swap the sensors? I'm hoping I can use it as it is.
I'll be getting some vac tubing tomorrow so I'll be able to continue with the install. Is there a way to temporarily run injection on the standard 4 channels (wasted injection) as it's my daily driver so I like to do a bit at a time?
I you have a more up to date tune could you post it on here?
Cheers
Robert
I have the MS powered on ignition switched 12V and grounded through the earths at pins 79 and 80 of the stock ECU. The NE signal works great when being shared with the stock ECU but it seems my G2 sensor is faulty (my initial issue with the car as stock) as it stops giving any signal after 3200RPM and, once warm, under 800RPM. I spliced the MS into G1 to test it works and I get a working signal but the stock ECU doesn't! It seems I can't share the cam sensor but once I fully take over engine control that won't matter.
Is there a value I can change to get it timed correctly with the G1 sensor or am I going to have to take it all apart and swap the sensors? I'm hoping I can use it as it is.
I'll be getting some vac tubing tomorrow so I'll be able to continue with the install. Is there a way to temporarily run injection on the standard 4 channels (wasted injection) as it's my daily driver so I like to do a bit at a time?
I you have a more up to date tune could you post it on here?
Cheers
Robert
I would recommend running new wiring for the cam/crank signals and using shielded wire grounded through the ms3 because those are the most significant aspects of getting a reliable standalone setup. If there are any sync problems, they will most likely be caused by some kind of signal noise. Also I would ground everything to a single point on the chassis or block because good grounds are the other thing that can be a problem. On these older cars, if you can't see the whole of the wiring you are splicing into, then you really have no way of knowing the condition of it. So, it's best to redo as much as you can. It really doesn't take long, and it goes without saying that if you do that then you might as well run the 8 wires for grounding the injectors through the sequential inputs on the expansion card. I attached my most current VE and Spark tables as well.
RJSzynal
New Member
- Messages
- 19
- Location
- Scunthorpe, England
I've been working a lot recently so haven't done a lot but I have gotten all the inputs sorted, just the outputs left.
The standard system has a two speed fuel pump controlled by the Fuel Pump ECU, how have you connected this? I assume you just run it at 12V constantly and bypass the Fuel Pump ECU but I don't know how to go about this. If I left it under the control of the stock ECU it would be changing the pressure in the fuel lines causing lean running on WOT.
I've shared the stock temp sensors (air and water) which work fine in the Megasquirt without any calibration but I think the stock ECU doesn't see them anymore as it idles high.
The stock vac pipes are 4mm but 3mm fits best with the MS so I've used a reducer for that which works great. I thought it didn't work at first but it only gives a signal if you have an engine speed signal.
How do you control the idle valve? Is it the VTA1 connection on the ECU?
Cheers
Robert
The standard system has a two speed fuel pump controlled by the Fuel Pump ECU, how have you connected this? I assume you just run it at 12V constantly and bypass the Fuel Pump ECU but I don't know how to go about this. If I left it under the control of the stock ECU it would be changing the pressure in the fuel lines causing lean running on WOT.
I've shared the stock temp sensors (air and water) which work fine in the Megasquirt without any calibration but I think the stock ECU doesn't see them anymore as it idles high.
The stock vac pipes are 4mm but 3mm fits best with the MS so I've used a reducer for that which works great. I thought it didn't work at first but it only gives a signal if you have an engine speed signal.
How do you control the idle valve? Is it the VTA1 connection on the ECU?
Cheers
Robert
RJSzynal
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- Scunthorpe, England
I had a go at transferring ignition control to the MS today with no luck. I connected Spark A (on the MS3X pigtail) to IGT and Spark B to IGT2, is that correct?
It just turned over and didn't even try to start, I tried it with the cam signal connected to G2 then G1 with tooth #1 at 5deg BTDC, 185deg and 365deg with no change. I even tried swapping the IGT and IGT2 wires so it was connected Spark A - IGT2 and still nothing. I'm thinking maybe the stock ECU is stopping fuel as it doesn't have control of the ignitors.
The car is going in for some bodywork tomorrow so I've just put it back to stock for now. I have three days off a week on tuesday so I'll do the injectors then to see if it that works before trying the ignitors again as the injectors aren't as timing specific.
Robert
It just turned over and didn't even try to start, I tried it with the cam signal connected to G2 then G1 with tooth #1 at 5deg BTDC, 185deg and 365deg with no change. I even tried swapping the IGT and IGT2 wires so it was connected Spark A - IGT2 and still nothing. I'm thinking maybe the stock ECU is stopping fuel as it doesn't have control of the ignitors.
The car is going in for some bodywork tomorrow so I've just put it back to stock for now. I have three days off a week on tuesday so I'll do the injectors then to see if it that works before trying the ignitors again as the injectors aren't as timing specific.
Robert
RJSzynal
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Today I wired up the injectors to the MS and it started first time and ran nicely. Then I wired up the ignitors to spark A and spark B again and nothing so I wired them back to stock and still nothing!!!! I'm at work for the next two days too!! I think it's not injecting enough to start it and that the cold start injector was what helped it start the first time but as the coolant was up it wasn't enabled. I ran the battery almost dead trying to start it as it started catching at one point but then back to just cranking, I've got a charger wired up at the moment so I'll try it once it's cooled down. I suppose it could be the fuel ECU too as the stock ECU is still controlling that and the idle valve.
I'll keep you updated, could you post your current MSQ tune on here for download?
Cheers
Robert
I'll keep you updated, could you post your current MSQ tune on here for download?
Cheers
Robert