MY 1uz into my 93 dualcab hilux

[v8toy1]

Well I thought it was about time I started a thread bout the history and mods to my 1uz-fe powered hilux.
As of Tuesday 14th july it will be here finally after saving like mad and trying to sort transport.
She started off as a stock as a rock 93 white Dualcab running a 2.8 diesel and g52 5 speed manual.

The only mods done to it was a set of 15x 7.5 white sunnys, under bonnet compressor and a steel winch bar.
Within the first week of owning it in went a cd player, 2 6’’ split in the front doors, 2 6’’ splits in the rear doors, a set of tweeters, amps and a single 12 inch sub on the back seat. Then went in the gme tx4400 uhf scanner.
In this time my 2’’ body lift also turned up so that was fitted and the steering shaft extension as well.

About 2 weeks after I got it, my v6 commo powered single cab lux **** its auto gearbox for the 5th time and the night before I was going away for a week long new yrs camping trip.

So in a mammoth effort and just 3 hrs after my old boy had just finished a 12hr shift at work we lobbed in a swapped all the suspension outa the single cab into the dualcab which consisted of 2’’ lifted parabolic springs, 3’’ homemade extended shackles, tough dog adjustable shocks, extended brake lines, rtc steering dampener, dropped drag link, adjustable torque rod and a few other little things then loaded me up for camping and all done by midnight. Thanks pa haha.
After new yrs trip

So after that trip is when the serious stuff started to happen I had already ordered all the gear for the conversion and lift so it was a matter of waiting for it to turn up.
The mods planned are as follows.
Toyota 1uz-fe v8 conversion
Swap out the w58 5 speed for a later model r154f Toyota 5 speed
New box on the left old on the right

Fit the snake racing pro rock stage 3 suspension kit which consists of crossover steering mod, 3’’ extended shackles, 3 ‘’ lifted springs, 2” dropped front crossmember ,inverted rear shock kit, rancho rs9000 shocks, front shock hoops, and a massive traction bar for the rear end.

Then drive it like I stole it.
First on the list was rippin out the old 2.8 slug and 5 speed it was a pity in the end because it was in perfect running order and not a thing wrong with it and only had 150,000 on the dial, sold it for a good price though.
Before the new engine went in I tore in and removed everything not needed in the engine bay like power steering resovoir and lines etc and just a heap of wiring not needed for the petrol engine, I also tore in and ripped the 1UZ apart and checked out the bottom end and what do ya know 6 bolt mains (didn’t know they were fitted with these standard woohoo) and nice and clean too. The inlet manifold came off so I could rebuild the starter motor (yes they are under the inlet manifold and yes it took an hr out of the car to get it out lol) at the same time I rebuilt the alternator, power steering pump and a few other little things got tidied up.
At the same time I also ripped of the traction control butterfly etc of the inlet manifold, removed the idle step up motor out of the inlet manifold and welded these areas shut.
Then there was the wiring as u can imagine there was heaps and mainly because it had an electronically controlled auto box originally so I had to separate the gearbox harness from the engine harness plus also remove the unwanted wiring that was used for the cruise control, traction control and idle step up motor.
Once done the engine was dropped in for trial fitting and engine mount and gearbox mount fabrication begun.
Originally placing the engine about 35mm from the firewall and not much higher than the 2.8 with the bodylift which also meant I had to extend gearbox mount forward 35mm which was on the money for what other people had down in there conversions.

After this was done I wired in the starter to the factory hilux starting system with plans to join into this with the aftermarket ecu to cut down on the extra need for wiring. So now my engine was cranking from the key I was getting excited. At the same time I also swapped the battery to the passenger side and rerouted all other wiring to suit new engine ancillaries.
I was finally getting close at this point I had it booked in for the exhaust system which I had planned to run a 2 ¾ ‘’ from the headers to the y piece and then 3’’ from then on flowing thru a 3’’ sports cat and 3’’ sports muffler exiting were the standard pipe originally exited.
While that was being done I had measured up the driveshafts and had them sent off to be lengthened/ shortened.
Got the car all back exhaust done, driveshaft’s fitted etc etc and had to wait acouple of days for the radiator to turn up which left me 2 weeks to get it fitted, car running and tuned before I had to move north for work and as usual working to a deadline never goes to plan.
Radiator rocked up and guess what it was 25mm to thick with thermos attached to fit in, I was fummin and swearing once or twice. Instead of sending it back east again I managed to find a local guy to mod it for me so after a few measurement I decided to go back to square one and move the engine back another 25mm to give me 10mm clearance from the firewall and also lifted it as high as the tranny would let me in the tunnel end result is much better giving me about 25mm clearance now between the engine and electric fan at the same time old mate was modding the radiator for me which involved cutting the shroud to fit closer to the core, sliding the mounting surfaces so the radiator recessed into the support panel a bit and also putting the inlet/outlets in the right spot.

So after all that I ran out of time and ended up having to make makeshift engine mounts to leave it in the engine bay and just pack it up and leave it to move north.
So now it’s time to work on it again very very soon and this is what needs to be done to finish it.
Fab engine mounts again
Fab gearbox cross member again
Fab up custom rear sump
Fit radiator and plum up
Plum up power steering
Cut and shorten exhaust (again) to refit headers
Mod and balance driveshaft’s again
Fit in ecu and related relays
Wire to run
And finally tune
After that’s done then I will re plumb aircon in when funds allow
Once running etc etc fitting of the lift kit will involve welding in the new 2’’ dropped front crossmember and fabbing in ifs steering box for x-over steering and also fitting traction bar.
Not much to do but enough fingers crossed it should be finished within a month or 2.
Cheers
Stewy

 

[v8toy1]

well 5 hrs after she arrived i was gettin stuck into her heers to mud gecko (dan) for given me a hand to push her of the car trailer who needs ramps lol.

first job was to unload the mountain of crap i stacked in the cab, then just lookin at her so i had to fix the bullbar originally i just thru a couple of bolts in it to hold it to get here but as u know it either my bro (hes a little underbrained lol) or the trucking companys decided to put a winch strap around it and well it as leaning forward about 2'' turned out the nuts in the chassis had been bent out from the pulling but all good now.

tommorrow nights effort will be swap the front prings around to get her to sit level then start cutting cardboad templates for the engine mounts and gearbox mounts and fab up and if time permits remove sump and trace block mounting and CAD a new rear sump up.


if all goes to plan, all the fab work will be done within a month as well as trying to save for the rest of the ecu which is going to be a wolf v500 standalone.

hopefully by end of august it will be registered before our bub arrives
cheers
stewy

 

[v8toy1]

got a bit acheived tonight
swapped front springs around and she now sits level across the front

then moved onto the engine mounts and gearbox x-member, after fiddling around a bit fitting in the radiator i ended up with a 5 mm clearance of the fire wall and about 10-15mm between the thermo fan and the crank pulley with the gearbox pushed up as high as possible leaving about 15mm between that and the transmission tunnel.
positioning the gearbox in the centre

5mm spacer for firewall to engine clearance (zoom qualitys pretty crappy)

passenger side engine mount tacked up

drivers side engine mount tacked up

both mounts ready for welding

one of the mounts side view

end result of engine placement on the left were the compressor and fuse box is, is were the custom airbox wil be placed and move the other items backwards a bit that way i can fit a seconf battery in the original position.

and the gained gearbox clearance

in the end the gearbox x-member has been raised by 65mm over standard most of it is acheived my using 12mm plate instead of a big lumpy original style x member.
tomorrows effort will be send CAd drawings of the new gearbox x member once a ally trail one has been done and then remove sump and Cad up a new rear sump version ready for profile cutting.
then the tailshafts will be measured up and sent of as well as shortening the exhaust system to fit to new engine postion.
after that its just a matter of fiddling around with the small bits and peices like making sure all fuel lines etc are good and not rubbing etc anywhere.

 

[v8toy1]

tonights effort consisted off
laying under the car for like a hr measuring and CAD drawing on the lappy until i was happy with the design of the x-member then i went and made a 2mm ally template of the x-member to double check b4 the design heads of to the profile cutters.
end result was first shot perfection 8) 8) 8) and a gain in clearance between underside of x-member of about 100mm.
in this pic the box is sitting at the right height i need with a 45mm bit of timber on top of the original x-member as u can see theres quite a gain in height. the new x-member only steps down about 50mm.

the next thing to get adjusted was the exhaust system, i removed almost the whole thing and mounted it to the headers then figured were the best place to cut the extra length from ended up cutting 32mm out and shes all sweet now.
also mounted the rear driveshaft to figure out how much it needed to be shortened by and its only 25mm which is annoyin cause originally i lengthed it by 32mm damn it oh well the job will be done right atleast.

so next thing on the list is to spend acouple hrs rubber mounting the radiator and finalizing its final postion then plumb up some hoses for it and connect the power steering.
then i reckon ill put a battery in her and and see if she turns over still.
found out some good info today from a local auto lecky after quizing him about the alternator hookup for the warning light etc. turns out ashdown ingrams sell an adaptor plug that goes from the 2.8's alternator 3 pin round plug and changes into the 1UZ's 3 pin oval plug, pinouts are the same but uses different plug styles much easier than fiddling around changing the terminals over.
cheers
stewy

 

[v8toy1]

tonight i sorted the radiator properly and made new side mounts and cut the hold ones of and tig'd the new ones on the side redrilled them and mounted it to take a 20mm rubber bush between it and the front support panel, radiator now has about 20mm between it and the crank pully.

next i tackled the under bonnet fuse box and removed the under bonnet compressor infront of it. i needed to do this to make room for the custom ally airbox. This way i can still run dual batteries one in the original position on the drivers side behind the headlight and the other behind the headlight on the passenger side were the original deisel airbox was, which is the main battery.

at this present time im going to see if the panel filter in my aurion will be the right size if not ill find another smaller size. the reasons i want to use a panel filter is that way the airbox will be able to be made to a smaller profile seen as its going to be on the drivers guard and it will be and easier style for me to fully seal for the snorkel setup, also the inlet pipe will only be about 250mm long from the airbox to the throttle body so thats got to be a good thing.
tomorrow should be an eventfull day the plan is to measure the area for the new sump and then pull the motor out to reattach all the crap on the front (its only all sitting on there at the mo) and also remove the original sump and trace the block surface to CAD the new sump up, Inbetween all this the boys and me and DAN (Mud gecko) hehe in the W/shop will be pulling the new boat hull together so i got a busy day.
along with this i will finish of he rerouting of the drivers side harness for the fuse box and start fabbing a airbox fingers crossed.
cheers
stewy

 

[v8toy1]

well today was a extra productive day i had the help of dan (mud gecko) and we got **** loads acheived cheers mate.
first thing was to rip the donk out and reattach everything eg aircon compressor sort out the length of belt i needed and just put some bolts in here and there. we also removed the sump base and mid section so i could make a tracing of the block to make a start on my custom sump.
at the same time dan sanded up the engine mounts and we painted them ready to go back on.
donk out

u got love this sexy looking crank and the 6 bolt mains

engine mounts sanded and painted

while the engine was out we moved the clutch line bracket out of the way by 25mm and also attach the marks 4wd handbrake relocation kit.
dan rewelding the clutch line bracket in the new location

by the end of the day the engine was bolted back in and everything tightened up.
there is only a few little things here and there that need to be done now
fab custom sump
fab custom airbox
wire ecu when i get it
drop front and rear driveshafts of to be altered
finish of handbrake assembly
fit fuel surge tank
fit gearbox x-member when it turns up
refit stereo and uhf head units
final fit radiator
not much but all little things that as we know take more time than the bigger items.
cheers
stewy

 

[v8toy1]

so tonight i just piss farted around a bit getting the little obsolete things done
i fitted driver side seatbelt (removed it to fit into my single cab at one stage)
refitted all the dash panels even though they have to come out again for the ecu to mounted under them
put all my recovery gear behind the backseat
and made a sweet little polished bracket for the other side of my fuse box and for acouple of earth to attach too.
its just wank but it looked really good until i covered it up with crap and now u cant see it lol oh well it looked good to start with.

and here it is all covered up lol

i also got excited and decided to take soem of my aurion next to my lux
aurions lowered 53mm

not the the roof line on the aurion is the same level as the bottom of my windows on the lux :roll: :roll: :roll:

lastnight i made my wiring loom up ready to go in 12 wires and all done its all taped together and longer than i need but just incase i needed it to be.
cheers
stewy

 

[v8toy1]

i worked on her from 8 till 12 today and finished of the wiring rerouting in the drivers guard.
ive done this to allow me to put the airbox on the drivers guard and leave room for dual batterys.
some of the wiring mods

this wiring is for the indicators and park lights i used the same colour wires with traces etc and lenghtened it by aboout 500mm to exit thru another hole in the back of the guard

not the most interesting pics but all good haha
also got the bossman to double check my CAD drawings for the sump flange and gearbox x-member got both of them first shot so all good they will be email to profile cutter on monday morning. Sump flange will be cut from 10mm ally plate to allow for warpage after welding and also so i got room to mill it afterwards, and gearbox x-member from 12mm plate, reason because i can :lol:
tonight im sittin on the couch make a wiring loom up for the efi relays, fuel lpump relays and main relays ready to be fitted with connections and fittings etc.
chers
stewy

 

[v8toy1]

today i got my freshly cut x-member and i well to say the least i got quite aroused lol theres no way in this weld i know of anyone that could cut that nice.
after speakin to ash about his x-member i got into folding mine up and then onto drilling the holes (didnt get the cutter to do them because i wanted to double check my measurements).
the freshly cut 12mm plate x-member

in the press ready for folding.

first fold

all folded

new v's old

holes drilled

the said item fitted

tomorrow night will be a night of for the first night since last wednesday the youngin is harpen on to me to watch were wally dvds lol
cheers
stewy

 

[v8toy1]

k got a little bit slack this weekend had planned to get craploads done but my laziness got the better of me and only manged a half day on saturday but still mangaged to sort half the airbox out.
tacked together with inlet and outlets holesawed in it.

the lid exciting hey lol

test fit of filter, filter is outa my aurion and the angled edge suits what i need to get around the brake master cylinder.

with lid

all tigged together

test fitted to engine bay its quite big but im tryin to think of how to make it smaller

hopefully ill get of my sphincter during the week and finish the whole lot of bar the ecu.
cheers
stewy

 

[earthman]

G'day Stewy,

That cross member is the bloody goods! Was it difficult to fab? How long did it take measuring etc? Being a flat piece of steel, would that create more cabin vibrations that the original tube type cross member?

And the air box is damn good too. I am just in the process of knocking out endless cardboard templates for an aluminium one, difficult to get the right fit with snorkel and LPG etc. Have to be very precise in the cramped hilux/4runner engine bay. It's great to see how you have tackled it. Looks like a possum house when the lid is on, LOL. :stooges:

 

[v8toy1]

nah for me mate it was peice of piss in the way that i work as a boat builder/ aluminuim welder and have all the resources to do it. once i figured out what height i wanted/needed the gearbox i layed underneath with a my laptop and CAD program and made some cardboard cutouts of the chassis mounts and then just guessed some measurements from there. After that i CADed it up and got all the angles sorted etc and proceded to make a copy out of a 2mm ally with the holes drilled etc etc.

the first one was out by 12mm on the centre hole but the other folds were within 5mm of eachother so after correcting these i then made another to these new measurements it was spot on and had myself a 2mm template of what i needed then i got the old bossman to do his thing with the CAD and send it to the profile cutters. i purposly left the holes off it and drilled them myself to 100% guarnatee they were good to go i then drew them into my CAD program for later on if needed.

im hoping it wont cause any vibrations but im under the asumption the snake racing one is made from 10mm steel so fingers crossed it will be good.

im going to change my airbox after looking at it for an hr after work today instread of using the panel filter from my aurion im going to use a uni filter pod filter it will still be fully sealed but will be heaps smaller in physical size which will suit the engine bay more and give me more room to work with.

if u want if someone can help me figure it out (i aint to good with converting files) thru email or post it on my thread i can post the cad files of my x-member, engine mounts and airbox for others to use seen as this forum is the reason im doing this conversion lol.

with that said i have to say thanks to all the fellas that have provided info for me countless times and all the threads on wiring info and mounting ideas without this i would be green as still lol CHEERS

cheers
stewy

 

[v8toy1]

today i got motivated after downing 2 double shot iced coffees and half a bottle of coke lol.
i went to ashdown ingrams and sorced the adaptor for the alternator plugs $15 and on the shelf (P/N 44-76440) also got a 5 bank of relay bases with a heap of crimp terminals.
adaptor plug

adaptor plug and relay block

plugged in the adaptor and instantly had all my dash warnings lights and the gauges all worked cant beat that no soldering needed.
after that decided to wire in what i could without the ecu, layed out my harness that i had prepared earlier :lol: :lol: and labeled everything.
harness layed out

mounted the fuses and relay block i only need 2 relays for the engine to run the third is for my bullbar mounted lights and i have the 180amp relay on the guard for the roof lights.

relay block

fuses

then got into wiring it after laying it into the engine bay the plan is for all the wiring to be done in the engine bay nothing going into the cab besides the ecu and the 8 wires to operate it lesson learnt after the other hilux conversion i did the dash harness cant take the extra load :roll: :roll: :roll:

fuses soldered on

fuses heatshrunk

soldered and crimped

the blue/white colour wire runs from the fuel pump relay down the the fuel pump.
ive used colours that are mostly trace wire colours to try and match the existing hilux wiring the best i can, reasons for doing this is mainly for fault finding later cause i dont have 10 red wires all going to different things and trying to follow them.
the other reason is it looks factory lol

tomorrow im going to finish what i can with the wiring and then i might even give her a wash and aluminium acid the engine and box.
cheers
stewy.

 

[sideshow]

nice work
but i personally would have run everything under the dash
only wir ei usually run extra thru the firewall that is not engine harness
is the battery power cable

the 1uz loom is long enough to run under dash
i always strip loom and run the relays and fuses under the dash behind the glove box

i guess if u pay for the job it looks much nicer heheheh
see when i do all my wiring jobs and conversions
the neater the engine bay looks the better the customer feels
and then they can justify soending th emoney for s proper job

but i guess when i do work on most 4wds the wiring in the engine bay is messy cause there is soo much stuff there like fridges and diff locks and showers and winches
its hard to make a 4wd neat thats y i run as much as i can under dash

 

[v8toy1]

i did really think about running it in the dash i did it with v6 commo engine into my other lux but i figured this time id run it under the bonnet just in case there is a problem i can access it easily rather than pull my dash apart to find something.

my 1uz loom barely makes it parts passenger cam cover its been chopped that was another reason trying to keep as least amount of joins as possible.

as a fellow trady i can understand why u would hide it in the dash it is much neater etc and personally i would love to hide 99% of the wiring that is in the engine bay totally.

all my quads i build and the old model trumpy bonnevilles i have a part in building have the wiring all hidin in the frames etc and only the wiring that needs to exsposed is.
i love the smooth clean look of an enginebay ut like u said its hard with a 4by lol

itll still look neat just convaluted tubing keeping it together.

hey ill get that no. for that coil for ya today i been slack lol

cheers
stewy

 

[v8toy1]

allrighty well it official i ned to buy me one of those profile cutters lol im sure id make some money of it haha
got the sump flange and i can safely say i got aroused
10mm flange

next to ome sump

holes drilled

half tacced together the chamfered edge is to clear the pinion on full compression

all tacced up

all tigged up i gotta buy me one of those too 8) 8) 8)

not bad for a bike mechanic hey :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

lower section filled with water holds about 3.5l's to the top of the lower section

total volumne is around the 7.5l mark right to the flange

it seems to only have distorted about 1mm thru the centre so im hapy i expected it to be more.
im thinkin 3.5l in the lower section will be enough with the addition of a bolt in windage tray at the same level to make sure that 3.5l stays at the pickup and if i fill it with about 5.5 - 6l of oil allowing about 1.5l to be pumped into the engine on start up the volumne left in the sump while running should be about 4.5l's fingers crossed.
feel free to add ya thoughts on this as this is my first sump ive built and am playing it by ear :roll: :roll: :roll:
tomorrow night ill add a small peice of 10mm plate into the bottom corner and drill and tap this for the sump plug and im not sure yet if im going to add a temp sender in it yet ill bolt it on first and check.
cheers
stewy

 

[Bushwhacker]

i did really think about running it in the dash i did it with v6 commo engine into my other lux but i figured this time id run it under the bonnet just in case there is a problem i can access it easily rather than pull my dash apart to find something.

my 1uz loom barely makes it parts passenger cam cover its been chopped that was another reason trying to keep as least amount of joins as possible.

as a fellow trady i can understand why u would hide it in the dash it is much neater etc and personally i would love to hide 99% of the wiring that is in the engine bay totally.

all my quads i build and the old model trumpy bonnevilles i have a part in building have the wiring all hidin in the frames etc and only the wiring that needs to exsposed is.
i love the smooth clean look of an enginebay ut like u said its hard with a 4by lol

itll still look neat just convaluted tubing keeping it together.

cheers
stewy

Lovin' your work Stewy.
What do you think of mine? Still needs a bit of tidying I think.:shysmile:

 

[v8toy1]

yours looks nice and neat to mate lovin the red bits on the engine
howz it go fuel wise and on the highway im still tryin figure out if my standard ratios will be fine

 

[rma]

Wow man , super nice work , love the crossmember.

 

[v8toy1]

update
dropped the sump of to a mate to mill the flange and mill a section out to clear my oil pickup brackets at lunch will be back monday :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
tonight i got a little crazy and wired in the thermo fan relay etc to run via the ecu at a temp i can adjust thru the laptop.
bridged her out and by jeez does it push some air over the engine gonna fab a little air deflector doober under the radiator between the sump and bottom tank as theres a fair bit of air escaping down there. Tomorrow nights job though. :wink: :wink:
also got totally wild and made a new thermostate housing up and manged to suprise myself on how well it turned out 8) 8)
10mm flange, also in there is a small peice of 50x3mm pipe and the hose tail is 40x3mm after being welded and sanded then polished lol its looks a million dollars and full wank factor.
didnt get any picks of construction
sanded and orbied

note the slight bit more offset the outlet has

original fitted to car

newy fiitted to car

and all buffed up next to old one

so do u like the wank lol
the reason for the bit more offset was to allow the radiator hose to run dead straight and be only about 200mm long the other hose which i will get a pic of tomorrow is exactly the same length and straight too so all i need to carry in the toolbox is a length of 38mm universal hose and not 2 different types of hoses from 2 different cars :roll: :roll:
ill drop the thermostate housing of to be milled tomorrow aswell.
tomorrow nights effort will be finish of radiator, fit hoses and fab air doober underneath then go thru my big list tick a few things and maybe do something else