hungryforinfo
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This thread gives me movement!!! Love your sump and your wiring harness...... LOL....
MY 1uz into my 93 dualcab hilux
- Thread starter v8toy1
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
WELLLLLLLLLLL IT RUNS woohoo
turns out that it wouldnt start because of installer error, installer being me
turns out i had the 2 ignition outputs from the ecu around the wrong way so essentailly it was 180 degrees out with the timing (which was what i thought but didnt realise how) all it took was a simple swap of the 2 wires and walla she ran.
as the wires are allready routed and cut to size im going to leave them how i had them and swap the setting in the ecu which does the same thing.
took it around the cul-de-sac acouple of times and well im hella excited, now im going full steam ahead to get this thing on the road.
all thats left is too
fix radiator leak
wrap all the wiring up
dyno tune etc
fit x-over steering setup
wheel alignment/caster adjustment
fit 2 more gauges
powdercoat gearbox x-member
and a bloody good wash and detail.
cheers
stewy
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
did a couple hrs work tonight on the big girl
fitted the 2'' dropped front x-member, refitted the radiator and hoses, refitted the centre console, fitted the last 2 lightforce 240's onto the roof so i can see at night lol and left the rig in the w/shop so i get enthuiseastic (?) tomorrow and do some work on it when i finished workin 4 the bossman.
bullbar and radiator removed
hehe front ome hangers kinda gone
hahahahaha (evil laugh)
of with the old
to fit the x-member in i had to notch the rear centre section out 62mm to clear the ally radiator due to were i placed it to clear the engine, no biggy though nothing a cutting disc and welder wont fix 8) 8) 8)
tacced up
and welded
finished item welded,primed and painted up
refitted the radiator and fitted the hoses up
hose is green stripe coolant hose from cbc bearings i used to use in the trucks and earthmoving gear i worked on definatley the good ***** but is 60 odd bucks for about 1000mm.
so tomorrow i will be motivated after downing 2 strong ice coffees and acouple of red bulls :shock: :shock:
plan is to fit front shock hoops and shocks, modify bullbar mounting plate and refit bullbar then finish off welding in the rear inverted shock setup then who knows.
cheers
stewy
fitted the 2'' dropped front x-member, refitted the radiator and hoses, refitted the centre console, fitted the last 2 lightforce 240's onto the roof so i can see at night lol and left the rig in the w/shop so i get enthuiseastic (?) tomorrow and do some work on it when i finished workin 4 the bossman.
bullbar and radiator removed
hehe front ome hangers kinda gone
hahahahaha (evil laugh)
of with the old
to fit the x-member in i had to notch the rear centre section out 62mm to clear the ally radiator due to were i placed it to clear the engine, no biggy though nothing a cutting disc and welder wont fix 8) 8) 8)
tacced up
and welded
finished item welded,primed and painted up
refitted the radiator and fitted the hoses up
hose is green stripe coolant hose from cbc bearings i used to use in the trucks and earthmoving gear i worked on definatley the good ***** but is 60 odd bucks for about 1000mm.
so tomorrow i will be motivated after downing 2 strong ice coffees and acouple of red bulls :shock: :shock:
plan is to fit front shock hoops and shocks, modify bullbar mounting plate and refit bullbar then finish off welding in the rear inverted shock setup then who knows.
cheers
stewy
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
some pics guys
ome drivers side coil setup
new coil setup
new bung for the o2 sensor but its 10mm to high damn it
pretty much wired up the wires heading to the bottom of pic arent needed
some engine and wires
more progress tomorrow
cheers
stewy
ome drivers side coil setup
new coil setup
new bung for the o2 sensor but its 10mm to high damn it
pretty much wired up the wires heading to the bottom of pic arent needed
some engine and wires
more progress tomorrow
cheers
stewy
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
theres some on page 1 mate, i dont really have any others worth posting up.
well lastnite i pretty much finished the wiring and started slipping split tubing over it all, looks really neat now.
all thats left in the electrical department is to wire in a water temp, oil temp and oil pressure gauge, and also wire in the tps connecter still trying to source one after i broke the other.
i have fuel and spark so itll all be go
well lastnite i pretty much finished the wiring and started slipping split tubing over it all, looks really neat now.
all thats left in the electrical department is to wire in a water temp, oil temp and oil pressure gauge, and also wire in the tps connecter still trying to source one after i broke the other.
i have fuel and spark so itll all be go
v8toy1
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most of the black stuff on those wires is heatshrink ie i heatshrunk the injector wires together in one little loom then heatshrunk the tps wiring etc etc to that has i went, ive used as little as possible of lecky tape basically cause i hate the stuff i actually used solder twitched around the wires whilst running them, then once done i can use the solder to solder
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
well tried to start the lux on saturday afternoon.
had fuel and fuel pressure, had a weak spark but had spark, had cam and crankshaft triggering but she wouldnt start, checked the cam timing just to make sure and that was cool too.
after giving the 2 dizzys a bit of a clean i got a stronger spark.
a bit more trouble shooting and i had a incling that the injectors may have been blocked etc (the engine has sat for 3 yrs
), so straight down to supercrap and got some "start ya bastard" sprayed that down the inlet and she fired and half ran (so long as i kept spraying lol).
so on the order list is 2 new rotors and dizzy caps and to either clean the standard injectors or get some larger ones for the sc fitment later on,
decisions decisions.
but atleast i got to hear it a little so i know ive wired it right lol.
the other thing i have to piss around with again is the radiator started filling it up and it came almost as quickly out the core in the lower passenger side, had a closer look and one of the tubes isnt even connected to the bottom plate for the lower tank. Hella pissed off im never buying a radiator from these guys again was wrong when i initially got it and after modifing it to fit and work right it bloody leaks.
cheers
stewy
had fuel and fuel pressure, had a weak spark but had spark, had cam and crankshaft triggering but she wouldnt start, checked the cam timing just to make sure and that was cool too.
after giving the 2 dizzys a bit of a clean i got a stronger spark.
a bit more trouble shooting and i had a incling that the injectors may have been blocked etc (the engine has sat for 3 yrs
so on the order list is 2 new rotors and dizzy caps and to either clean the standard injectors or get some larger ones for the sc fitment later on,
decisions decisions.
but atleast i got to hear it a little so i know ive wired it right lol.
the other thing i have to piss around with again is the radiator started filling it up and it came almost as quickly out the core in the lower passenger side, had a closer look and one of the tubes isnt even connected to the bottom plate for the lower tank. Hella pissed off im never buying a radiator from these guys again was wrong when i initially got it and after modifing it to fit and work right it bloody leaks.
cheers
stewy
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
well i think so lol do u mean via means of oil pressure etc because i havent wired my fuel pump in like that, just going from the wolf diagram it doesnt show using oil pressure switched setup so i assumed it got its signal via something like ign output or crank shaft triggering or something im not sure this may even be my problem but the fuel pump does work once ign is switched on and cranking, it has power to T30 from ign switch, earth via T86, fuel pump feed via T87, ecu trigger to T85.
its showing all the right signs ie the led light is changing to the right colours per manual while cranking and with ign on not running.
please feel free to clarify this, it is my first efi mission ive takin on.
it has fuel and fuel pressure at the rails but i cant smell raw fuel comin from the exhaust while its been cranked so thats why i went with the blocked injector theory especially since it wanted to run with the start ya bastard but this could be because as u say its not receiving the signal to say its running.
i did try to hear for the injectors ticking but it was hard to hear them and crank engine at the same time i had noone else around to help at the time. mmmmm should try it now the missus is here.
cheers
stewy
its showing all the right signs ie the led light is changing to the right colours per manual while cranking and with ign on not running.
please feel free to clarify this, it is my first efi mission ive takin on.
it has fuel and fuel pressure at the rails but i cant smell raw fuel comin from the exhaust while its been cranked so thats why i went with the blocked injector theory especially since it wanted to run with the start ya bastard but this could be because as u say its not receiving the signal to say its running.
i did try to hear for the injectors ticking but it was hard to hear them and crank engine at the same time i had noone else around to help at the time. mmmmm should try it now the missus is here.
cheers
stewy
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
ok so after thinking about what anodyne said i went and checked the fuel system wiring again to the wolf diagrams and guess what i pucked up ive got a million excuses but at the end of the day i stuffed up turns out i wired the loop of 12v ign power from T30 to t85 trigger from ecu der for 1, trigger from ecu is and output and i put 12v's to it and 2 of course the fuel pump was going to come on when it basically had 12v wired direct to it.
ok but it still doesnt start and i have new lights on the ecu with key on and not cranking its red as per manual says
Input Trigger(s) present - Not Synchronized (usually describes an input Trigger or Input Trigger Configuration issue.
when i crank it, it flashes between red and blue, blue is good blue means
Engine Rotating, Trigger(s) Synchronized
i havent seen i go yellow yet which is
Engine Rotating, Trigger(s) yet to Synchronize
so does red mean in easier terms that the cam and crank signals are wired right and working but they need to be calibrated or something to the ecu.
cheers
stewy
ok but it still doesnt start and i have new lights on the ecu with key on and not cranking its red as per manual says
Input Trigger(s) present - Not Synchronized (usually describes an input Trigger or Input Trigger Configuration issue.
when i crank it, it flashes between red and blue, blue is good blue means
Engine Rotating, Trigger(s) Synchronized
i havent seen i go yellow yet which is
Engine Rotating, Trigger(s) yet to Synchronize
so does red mean in easier terms that the cam and crank signals are wired right and working but they need to be calibrated or something to the ecu.
cheers
stewy
ecu on??
what the hellllll
if ecu isnt on bloody thing wont fire
80% of 1uzs if start up have stuck injectors
they will not be blocked they are just stuck shut because fuel has so much crap in iit that most jap import enignes will have stuck injectors
i even had an ls1 with 6 stuck injectors took me 30 minutes of tapping and jump starting the injectors to free them
still one injector is stuck but i cant be bothered removing and clenaing so ill keep tapping tomorrow once i get some heat into them
i have a special tool for unsticking injectors
ill teach u one little lesson
to know if ecu is on hook up check engine light
or check the blue/red wire on the tps this should have 5 volts if ecu is on
what the hellllll
if ecu isnt on bloody thing wont fire
80% of 1uzs if start up have stuck injectors
they will not be blocked they are just stuck shut because fuel has so much crap in iit that most jap import enignes will have stuck injectors
i even had an ls1 with 6 stuck injectors took me 30 minutes of tapping and jump starting the injectors to free them
still one injector is stuck but i cant be bothered removing and clenaing so ill keep tapping tomorrow once i get some heat into them
i have a special tool for unsticking injectors
ill teach u one little lesson
to know if ecu is on hook up check engine light
or check the blue/red wire on the tps this should have 5 volts if ecu is on
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
the red yellow wire or +5v has power
blocked or stuck still gonna pull them out a get them cleaned up and sorted just one less thing to do later when i wont have to have the car off the road to fix a problem that can be fixed now especially in the middle of bum puck nowhere.
i know just have to muck around and get my cam and crank triggering syncronized.
cheers
stewy
blocked or stuck still gonna pull them out a get them cleaned up and sorted just one less thing to do later when i wont have to have the car off the road to fix a problem that can be fixed now especially in the middle of bum puck nowhere.
i know just have to muck around and get my cam and crank triggering syncronized.
cheers
stewy
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
been trying to get this thing started but seen as i cant link my ecu to my laptop properly im grasping at straws, cable is on order tho from wolf.
i did have the local tech guy for wolf ems here with his laptop and his laptop showed im getting shitloads of noise thru the cam and crank triggering so i wired the wolf sheilded core wire into the the cam and crank sensors as well, ditching the ome harness from the front of the engine.
still not starting but need to get this cable to trouble shoot the noise problem, ive moved the ecu earth as this was on the same earth as the body to engine earth just incase the starter or something was affecting it, going to run another earth from around the gearbox or bellhousing to the chassis.
has resistor sparkplugs so that gets cancelled out
getting there slowly i thing at a time i guess
cheers
stewy
i did have the local tech guy for wolf ems here with his laptop and his laptop showed im getting shitloads of noise thru the cam and crank triggering so i wired the wolf sheilded core wire into the the cam and crank sensors as well, ditching the ome harness from the front of the engine.
still not starting but need to get this cable to trouble shoot the noise problem, ive moved the ecu earth as this was on the same earth as the body to engine earth just incase the starter or something was affecting it, going to run another earth from around the gearbox or bellhousing to the chassis.
has resistor sparkplugs so that gets cancelled out
getting there slowly i thing at a time i guess
cheers
stewy
the fun of aftermarket ecus
most are straight forward but some occasionally can take days to sort out niggly problems
if u still have noise once u have used wolf shielded cable means u have wired somehting wrong or some other wiring is causing interference
anyway when u used the factory crnk and cam wires how do u know u had noise
i bet it somehting is wired wrong or the wolf ems is crap
i try to stay clear of both but anyway
make sure yr cam crnak wires are the right polarity
to swapping the pos and neg on each snesor and see what happens
really there is nothing worng with the factory wiring when wiring up an aftermarket
so disturbing the man harness can sometimes cause more problems
anyway have u used the left bacnk cam sensor i think
and double check the cam and cnk wires are round the right way
apart from that good luck with it
i just did an autronic and everything i sperfect but thing still wont run right
end of day i think its a mechanical problem but i still spent half a day tripple checking and still got nowhere
most are straight forward but some occasionally can take days to sort out niggly problems
if u still have noise once u have used wolf shielded cable means u have wired somehting wrong or some other wiring is causing interference
anyway when u used the factory crnk and cam wires how do u know u had noise
i bet it somehting is wired wrong or the wolf ems is crap
i try to stay clear of both but anyway
make sure yr cam crnak wires are the right polarity
to swapping the pos and neg on each snesor and see what happens
really there is nothing worng with the factory wiring when wiring up an aftermarket
so disturbing the man harness can sometimes cause more problems
anyway have u used the left bacnk cam sensor i think
and double check the cam and cnk wires are round the right way
apart from that good luck with it
i just did an autronic and everything i sperfect but thing still wont run right
end of day i think its a mechanical problem but i still spent half a day tripple checking and still got nowhere
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
not sure mate but ive had to guys help with the triggering wiring the first guy told me how to wire it and thats how ive done it and the secong guy was the wolf ems cairns rep and he checked it also and says its right so that all i can do right now with that.
the reason i changed the front section of the harness was because it looked brittle and dodgy and some of the ome sheild was not covered up under the ignition leads so rather than tape or heatshrink it up we both thought it be better to rewire right to the plug with new stuff.
one thing i have thought while ive been sitting here tonight is were ive routed the sheilded cable back to the ecu ive run it in the same condute as the rest of the ecu wiring so after work tomorrow im going to separate it just in case.
i personally wouldnt say the wolf unit is shit because this is the only ecu ive had anything to do with but then again im not going to say any ecu is shit its just going to be a easy simple problem thats staring me in the face all the time.
i have the grey from the wolf sheild wire which is trigger sync signal going to red on the cam sensor and i have brown from the wolf sheild which is trigger ref hi signal going to red of the crank sensor and then blue green which is trigger ref low signal/ground going to both white wires on cam and crank sensors and yep using the left cam sensor
i will also triple check the polarity and swap them to try it like u say but im pretty sure ive got the wiring right.
can i stick a multimeter on the crank sensor or cam sensor to see if a signal is coming out while i wait for my cable to link to the ecu to turn up.
cheers
stewy
the reason i changed the front section of the harness was because it looked brittle and dodgy and some of the ome sheild was not covered up under the ignition leads so rather than tape or heatshrink it up we both thought it be better to rewire right to the plug with new stuff.
one thing i have thought while ive been sitting here tonight is were ive routed the sheilded cable back to the ecu ive run it in the same condute as the rest of the ecu wiring so after work tomorrow im going to separate it just in case.
i personally wouldnt say the wolf unit is shit because this is the only ecu ive had anything to do with but then again im not going to say any ecu is shit its just going to be a easy simple problem thats staring me in the face all the time.
i have the grey from the wolf sheild wire which is trigger sync signal going to red on the cam sensor and i have brown from the wolf sheild which is trigger ref hi signal going to red of the crank sensor and then blue green which is trigger ref low signal/ground going to both white wires on cam and crank sensors and yep using the left cam sensor
i will also triple check the polarity and swap them to try it like u say but im pretty sure ive got the wiring right.
can i stick a multimeter on the crank sensor or cam sensor to see if a signal is coming out while i wait for my cable to link to the ecu to turn up.
cheers
stewy
if u think its all ok then id try running the wires for cam n crnk snesors seperate and just as a quick test see fi u can run the wires from sensors across to guard and outside care then in thru window or door if ecu is inside
make the shielded cable run totally outside rest fo wiring then back in
if u still get noise then u have problems elsewhere
trying to find noise is big pain in th ebutt as u cant see where the problem is
if u get the wires from snesors and dont connect to ecu u can test with mutlimeter
u can test on bolts and get very low voltage
or check with resistance and get a change every pulse
make the shielded cable run totally outside rest fo wiring then back in
if u still get noise then u have problems elsewhere
trying to find noise is big pain in th ebutt as u cant see where the problem is
if u get the wires from snesors and dont connect to ecu u can test with mutlimeter
u can test on bolts and get very low voltage
or check with resistance and get a change every pulse
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
ok mate ill try all that and report back here
im glad im trying to find the problem myself its all a big learning curve for me.
cheers
stewy
im glad im trying to find the problem myself its all a big learning curve for me.
cheers
stewy
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
moved sheilded harness out of the rest of the loom no difference.
moved sheilded harness out side of cab then back in thru doors to ecu no difference.
swapped polarity around in connectors onto cam and crank sensors no difference
what else can cause noise considering ive moved the sheilded harness right out of the way of other wiring and components.
cheers
stewy
moved sheilded harness out side of cab then back in thru doors to ecu no difference.
swapped polarity around in connectors onto cam and crank sensors no difference
what else can cause noise considering ive moved the sheilded harness right out of the way of other wiring and components.
cheers
stewy
v8toy1
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- Cairns, Australia
tomorrow i might just inspect the crank angle sensor for visable damage or snot on it just becaus ei want to eliminate that.
v8toy1
New Member
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- 108
- Location
- Cairns, Australia
WELLLLLLLLLLL IT RUNS woohoo turns out that it wouldnt start because of installer error, installer being me
turns out i had the 2 ignition outputs from the ecu around the wrong way so essentailly it was 180 degrees out with the timing (which was what i thought but didnt realise how) all it took was a simple swap of the 2 wires and walla she ran.
as the wires are allready routed and cut to size im going to leave them how i had them and swap the setting in the ecu which does the same thing.
took it around the cul-de-sac acouple of times and well im hella excited, now im going full steam ahead to get this thing on the road.
all thats left is too
fix radiator leak
wrap all the wiring up
dyno tune etc
fit x-over steering setup
wheel alignment/caster adjustment
fit 2 more gauges
powdercoat gearbox x-member
and a bloody good wash and detail.
cheers
stewy
