Standalone ECU Megasquirt- sorting out the details

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Megasquirt vs others

shadetree said:
I'm not sure where you are getting your prices from.

I spent:
$141.. shipped, Complete Ford EDIS setup, from Ebay.
$369...shipped, MS2 kit, relay board kit, stim, cable, from Glen's garage.
=
$510 and that includes the relay board, which is not needed for cars that are already fuel injected. That is the "good kit", MS2, v3.0 board. It does cost more if you buy it assembled and tested.

I already have a laptop and WB o2. I have a bit of experience with programmable FI, but am looking to learn more.

I see the value of a 1uz engine as being right around $500-700. I have a hard time spending 2X, 3X the value of the engine on the ECU.

Jerry, the trigger wheel mounts on the crank pulley. I was planning on bolting it to the pulley.
Ah shadetree, I see where the confusion is. I beleive you are in Washington US, I was quoting $Aus, which are about 72% of a $US.
The Ford EDIS is probably very common over there, here you'd be looking at US$ 2- 300. Then the MS2 at $369 worked out at just over $500 Aus plus building. I picked up a sequential EMS 8860 for $AUD 1200 (about US $900) so it will be interesting to see how it goes. Good luck with the megasquirt, I'm learning lots about setting up computers reading the info you and others are writing up which should help me with my wiring.

Ed
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I've been working on sorting out my harness and which sensors I am going to use. I obviously have alot more research to do. If anyone is familar with the sensors in question, or knows where to find lex service manuals online, I would be grateful for the help.

I am not sure if I am going to be able to use the toy TPS and O2 sensors. The GM units use 3 wires, while toy ones use 4. Wire 2, the black and red one labeled B, what does it do?

The TPS also uses 4 wires. I have only identified the ground. The GM unit has a 5V ref in, and tps signal out. I am not sure what the extra toy wire is for?

Do you know anything about the ISC valve?

v3ext_wiring.gif

sum6.jpg



TPS: Lexus #1 tps

1. BRN -ground
2. GRN -switched
3. YEL -TPS signal
4. BLU-RED- +5v


WATER TEMP: lex

1.RED-BLU
2.BRN -ground

OXYGEN SENSOR: lex

1.RED ---HT1- switches to ground through the ECU to turn heater
2.BLK RED---B- switched +12V, its power for the heater,
3.BLK - 02 + signal
4.BRN - O2 - ground


AIR TEMP: need to get one. I might use a honda one I have laying around.


VR SENSOR: Ford

1.WHT BLU
2.BLU

EDIS module: Ford

1. GRY ORG -pip
2. TAN YEL -tach out
3. PNK -saw
4. GRY -VR-
5. BLU -VR+
6. RED
7. ORG RED -shield saw/pip and vr
8. TAN RED -coil A
9. TAN ORG -coil B
10. BLK GRN -ground
11. TAN YEL -coil C
12. TAN BLU -coil D

Things I'd like to use, but not neccessary to run:

Knock
1. BLK


ISC VALVE: lex
2.BLK RED
3.BLU RED
1.YEL RED
6.GRN YEL
4.GRN
5.BLK RED
 
The TPS isn't a problem.
Its a normal 3 wire TPS ie +5V power, Ground and position out. The 4the wire is an idle switch to ground.
Brown - Ground
Blue/Red - +5V
Signal is one of the other 2, not sure from the top of my head. A multimeter will tell you very quickly.

For idle speed control leave the Blk/Red wires disconnected.
The others can go to l1,lb 2a,2b,
Blue/Wht??? 1A
Yel/Red 1B
GrN/Yel 2A
Grn 2B
If this doesn't work switch the polarity of them around ie wires 1A and 1B or 2A and 2B until you get it to move correctly.

Blk/Res on Oxygen sensor goes to a switched +12V, its power for the heater, the Ht1 line switches to ground through the ECU to turn it on.

The Knock sensors are shielded black wires.
 
hi fellas theres two of us in the uk going to megasquirt the 1uz unit in our mk1 mr2 aw11`s with the v3 board you dont need to use the ford edis 8 setup as you can trigger the coils from the v3 board direct also you can use the standard 12-1 crank wheel and sensor to trigger it ill dig out the info if your interested all the best podge
 
1uz

I did a megasquirt on a 1uz early last year. This motor was setup by toyota for marine application and had a 36-2 crank trigger instead of the more common dual dissy setups. I removed the trigger wheel, and welded another tooth on it. Then I had to reindex it to make it work correctly with edis and the stock vr pickup location. I used 42lb hi imp injectors and a mid 80's mustang aftermarket t/b. The version 2.2 m/s 1 was used, as it is more versatile, I used the boost control (pwm) function to drive the vvt solinoids. There is a 8 x8 map to tune this, and it works very well. It also has twin t3-t4 turbos making 11lbs of boost,no I/C, 111 octane fuel. It has never been on a dyno, but the estimated hp is in the 650 range. I tuned it (on the street)with a innovate w/b that I modified to log boost. The owner of this car has told me that he has ran dead even with a slightly (400lbs) heavier car that had been dynoed @ 850 CHP. If anyone knows where I can find a cheap supply of these motors in socal, please emailme @ [email protected]. Any questions, email is fine. I also post as subie4me on the ms forum.
 
podge said:
hi fellas theres two of us in the uk going to megasquirt the 1uz unit in our mk1 mr2 aw11`s with the v3 board you dont need to use the ford edis 8 setup as you can trigger the coils from the v3 board direct also you can use the standard 12-1 crank wheel and sensor to trigger it ill dig out the info if your interested all the best podge
Hi Podge,

I would also be interested in info re the megasquirt and the 1UZFE. I'm looking at running a Megasquirt as a piggyback on the standard ECU to help with fuelling on a turbo application so any info would be most useful.

Cheers,

Tony
 
nice setup, is that running stock internals? You may be up there with the highest powered 1uz in the U.S. You mentioned it not having two dizzys, you modded a later 1uz that came out in 98 when they dropped the disributors, i wonder if the marine version you did is different than the stander 98 version.
 
WDoherty said:
nice setup, is that running stock internals? You may be up there with the highest powered 1uz in the U.S. You mentioned it not having two dizzys, you modded a later 1uz that came out in 98 when they dropped the disributors, i wonder if the marine version you did is different than the stander 98 version.
Yes, all stock internals. The intake manifold came off of a different motor. I'm not sure which one. This motor has vvti. I wonder if it has the weaker rods like the street motors, or maybe toyota put the better non vvti rods in it.
 
toy4me said:
Yes, all stock internals. The intake manifold came off of a different motor. I'm not sure which one. This motor has vvti. I wonder if it has the weaker rods like the street motors, or maybe toyota put the better non vvti rods in it.
i wonder too, i thought the stock pistions and rods were only good to 450hp on the non-vvti so i image less on vvt-i rods.......could this guy be at risk of blowing this thing up.......especialy without intercooling
 
WDoherty said:
i wonder too, i thought the stock pistions and rods were only good to 450hp on the non-vvti so i image less on vvt-i rods.......could this guy be at risk of blowing this thing up.......especialy without intercooling
We never dynoed this thing. That hp number is an estimate based on how it performs against others of known output. This is in a sand rail that weights around 2400lbs. The owner of this car has run it for an entire season with no problems. I want to do some more of these, but am undecided on which engines to buy. I am wondering if the marine motor had better internals in it it than the street counterpart with vvti.
 
rods

I spoke with some people at TRD last week, and they told me that the marine engine has the earlier rods.
 
You can' use the Stock Lexus trigger wheel bercause it uses a different count off than the 37 tooth wheel of the ford. I had already looked at using the stock wheel until I found this out.
 
Heeheehee, you're gonna keep the 1uzfe down low from all the guys on GD.com who think they need a LS1 or better to get it done, right subie? ;) I want my 'UZI' to be unique..
 
turboteener said:
You can' use the Stock Lexus trigger wheel bercause it uses a different count off than the 37 tooth wheel of the ford. I had already looked at using the stock wheel until I found this out.
You can, if you remove the trigger wheel, and tig weld up on another tooth. You also have to file a new notch for the key to reindex it. Then it will work with edis. This is how I did it.
 


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