XR8tt
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Manual gearbox 1UZ drivers - in 'ere
- Thread starter -Nemesis-
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
So what's the consensus/preference (for a boosted 1UZ especially) for you guys?
Longer gears to keep in the boost/power band longer, but a longer haul for each gear?
Or lots of rowing with the stick through short gears, going through the power band like an 18 speed Kenny heheh....
Longer gears to keep in the boost/power band longer, but a longer haul for each gear?
Or lots of rowing with the stick through short gears, going through the power band like an 18 speed Kenny heheh....
XR8tt
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For a turbo ?? Longer gears..
I have built a few turbo Ford 6 cyl 4.0 motors and the longer gears 3.25 is much better than 3.9.. Also to a point an auto is much better too..
But that depends on application...
They build so much torque !!!
In fact an auto would be 1.5 seconds quicker over the 1/4 easy...
This being a truck thread.. IMO longer ratio's the better BUT maybe relatively close in lower ratio's for rock climbing etc..
I have built a few turbo Ford 6 cyl 4.0 motors and the longer gears 3.25 is much better than 3.9.. Also to a point an auto is much better too..
But that depends on application...
They build so much torque !!!
In fact an auto would be 1.5 seconds quicker over the 1/4 easy...
This being a truck thread.. IMO longer ratio's the better BUT maybe relatively close in lower ratio's for rock climbing etc..
Tacoma_Kyle
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Yeah I highly doubt we got any F coded ones. Seeing as how valuable MK I Supra axles are for swapping...
I am probably ganna stick a pickups F code axle under.
I am probably ganna stick a pickups F code axle under.
Tacoma_Kyle
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Nemesis.
Do you know the -4cyl- US Pickups/4Runners got a effectively weaker 3rd (basically thinner ring gear, maybe others as well) than the V6 models?
My point being, are you sure a US 4cyl diff wasnt compared to the Hilux's V6 equivalent diff?
Do you know the -4cyl- US Pickups/4Runners got a effectively weaker 3rd (basically thinner ring gear, maybe others as well) than the V6 models?
My point being, are you sure a US 4cyl diff wasnt compared to the Hilux's V6 equivalent diff?
I don't see why Toyota would put bigger diffs in a 4cyl Pickup just because it's sold in the US.
Perhaps in any that were factory Turbo diesel or later models. The only real way to tell would be to view them side by side.
I know boof off here went through 3 or 4 rear Lux diffs after putting a 1UZ in a later model (2000ish) 4 cyl Lux. Myself and people like Twisty who put them in V6 4runners have yet to blow a rear diff. Yet they're both 8" diameter and fit same housing (i think they bolt in.) Stock Hilux diffs sell second here through forums for usually $150, V6 versions fetch about $350.
Perhaps in any that were factory Turbo diesel or later models. The only real way to tell would be to view them side by side.
I know boof off here went through 3 or 4 rear Lux diffs after putting a 1UZ in a later model (2000ish) 4 cyl Lux. Myself and people like Twisty who put them in V6 4runners have yet to blow a rear diff. Yet they're both 8" diameter and fit same housing (i think they bolt in.) Stock Hilux diffs sell second here through forums for usually $150, V6 versions fetch about $350.
gloverman
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Toyota did manage to put different rear diffs into different models for different markets. Just enough to make things difficult. I also have no idea why. Maybe they where concerned with the extra Torque from the V6 , don't know why as they are a slug.
4 cylinders generally received a last code of 2 (non LSD) or 3 (LSD) which is a 2 pinon diff and the V6 generally recieved a final code 4 (non LSD) or 5(LSD) which is a 4 Pinon diff. Most G series diff parts interchange from the early 80s through to well into 2000s. Housings also have different widths.
I recently purchased a 92 130 series surf V6 with the G254 rear diff. 4.55 ratio and non LSD. It gets interesting when looking for options for LSD , pozi locker or air lockers. Some diff shops simply put a 2 pinon LSD centre into it which in my opinion is going backwards. We rarely have problems with 2wd owners with 1UZ popping diffs and the stck car boys over here use them without too many issues up to 500HP. This said 4WD boys with those big tyres manage to blow the odd one. These have two pinon non lsd items and are being very abusive to their diff ( big 2WD donuts and burnouts on seal)
My two cents worth with boosted vehicles is a tall diff works best. Justin runs a 3.72 in his celica from memory. One of our customers with a turbo 1uz in an EX lancer recently went from a 4 something diff to a 3.72 as well and he loves it.
Cheers
4 cylinders generally received a last code of 2 (non LSD) or 3 (LSD) which is a 2 pinon diff and the V6 generally recieved a final code 4 (non LSD) or 5(LSD) which is a 4 Pinon diff. Most G series diff parts interchange from the early 80s through to well into 2000s. Housings also have different widths.
I recently purchased a 92 130 series surf V6 with the G254 rear diff. 4.55 ratio and non LSD. It gets interesting when looking for options for LSD , pozi locker or air lockers. Some diff shops simply put a 2 pinon LSD centre into it which in my opinion is going backwards. We rarely have problems with 2wd owners with 1UZ popping diffs and the stck car boys over here use them without too many issues up to 500HP. This said 4WD boys with those big tyres manage to blow the odd one. These have two pinon non lsd items and are being very abusive to their diff ( big 2WD donuts and burnouts on seal)
My two cents worth with boosted vehicles is a tall diff works best. Justin runs a 3.72 in his celica from memory. One of our customers with a turbo 1uz in an EX lancer recently went from a 4 something diff to a 3.72 as well and he loves it.
Cheers
4000GT
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Ive got the 4.1 LSD diff in my car, it certainly makes for quick shifts. I would prefer a 3.2 to be honest for top end... mind you I can pretty much stay in 4th down to 500rpm and it pulls around town.
greybeard
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For a manual I pick a diff ratio based on r/km in 1st and top gear with consideration given to torque at cruising speed and being able to get moving in 1st without flogging the clutch to death, for auto r/km in top... for road use. I guess you might want to use other criteria for off-road or racing.
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