LS470

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Lextreme II

Just call me "Lex"
Messages
12,033
Location
City of Halos
I am helping my buddy Shawn (SPF_LS400) to do a hybrid UZ swap. He will be using the 4.7L Tundra iron block with 1uzfe rods and modified 2uzfe pistons with aftermarket rings and bearings. Finish it off with MLS and head studs. With the 4.7L, he also got a set of Lextreme's 4.7L swap engine mounts. Shawn will be keeping the boost under 8 psi. So he will be cool. I can not wait to see the end result. I hope u will spend some money on ecu and tuning.
 
how about proefi ecu. they make a entry ecu and advanced. take a look. i here they are the best now. also aem is coming out with a new ems version 2.
 
Ok so far my engine builder has machined my 2uz pistons flat to mate with my flat-edged 1uz heads. I promise to snap some pics next visit. The 1uz rods have had their oil clearances opened up a couple thousandths for better lubrication and cooling. I guess from the factory these things have half a thousandths clearance... that's waay too tight for boost IMHO. The heads have been resurfaced and the block re-decked with a fresh hone. The only real major step left is to balance everything once my hardware arrives. My builder said after a preliminary check on the crank it would need a special tungsten/nickel core to suit if the weight diesn't change with new ARP's, but it costs $100 more than standard balance job.

I was trying to throw these stage II cams have had in my garage for a while but I was told my valve springs would not work and that I would have to pay $700 in OEM shims to suit... that sounds a little pricey and a little sketchy to me. I understand re-adjusting clearances but $700 for metal discs will never make sense to me. Has anyone ever found a solution for this? Can old shims be ground down to make new sizes? Or does anyone know where you can find suitable shims for a couple bucks each?

Any Help apreciated, Sean
 
Shims are expensive and very labor intense to get it right. Remember there are 32 of them. Head work is pricey due to the number of valves involved.
 
Yes but is there any aftermarket or different model shim that can be sourced? And whats holding me back from machining the shims that are too thick, down to a desired thickness? I honestly am neck deep in debt already and cannot afford $700 in shims. I started out hoping for a budget build but i'm way over $2000 for just parts/labor for the block. I really want the dyno'ed 315BHP but cannot do that w/o the cams... Just thinking of that power with the procharger on top sounds just brutal.

I am aware of the common change in lift between stock and my regrinds but if my heads are already within spec, clearance-wise can't I just add lash caps of this "common" lift difference? In theory I should be ok, as every shim would need a "uniform" added clearance only to be offset by the overall change in base circle thickness by using the lash caps. Whats holding this idea back? I know there are a few members that have dealt with this.

Also, does anyone feel using OEM 1991 valve springs with OEM cams and redline at 7psi is a bad idea? My builder has told me the boost will cause valve float but I never ran into issues at 6500rpm and I pulled this many many times. I understand the valve see's vacuum normally and the boost will eliminate a little of the spring pressure but by how much? I thought a lot of the high hp 1uzfe's that kept stock redline were ok?
 
I've been running 13-14 psi of boost with stock heads and the engine seems fine. I think the 1UZ heads and their components are very strong. I'd say 17 psi could be the limit because anyone who runs within that limit doesn't seem to have problem. But the key is tuning.
 
I agree, the old FMU is gone on this one. Im picking up an adaptronic from David and ditching the MAF setup w/ some 315cc or possibly little larger for the fuel.

Good to hear your high boost has been reliable, that's exactly what I thought/wanted to hear. I sorta thought the builder was pushing extra work on me! lol.

I am thinking as a possible alternative trading the cams back (never taken out of box) and just getting a set of S&S headers for a decent HP bump. I'm sure the stockers on a 4.7 will have some serious restriction. Never thought these cams would be so expensive, looking at $1000 w/o the tune to get the bump sticks inside.
 
Here's a few pics of what I have been up to this weekend. The engine bay is a little greasy from the 200,000 miles since it was first dropped in, so I have grease detail all day lol. Also, since I will need 3 more 52mm gauges I need more room to mount them and don't want pedistals on my center dash to attract attention so I started a custom fiberglass cluster that i'm trying to "integrate" with the stock cluster bezel. Basically molding on an extension for 2 wideband's and a single tranny temp.

Once it's done I will cut out a backing for the gauges to mount to out of a sheet of carbon fiber and the center gauge will rock carbon face to match my boost and volt gauges.

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When ever I do fiberglass to an interior like that, I put down a layer of tape (green tape works best because it sticks to stuff I could not get blue tape to stick to), a layer of aluminum foil, then wax it at least 2x. Might want to cover a little more of the dash, ect. You would be surprised just how far away from what you're glassing can get resin on it.

Also, when you're finishing the part its best to let it sit for a while once you think you have it done before painting, because the glass will still be shrinking. The more time is better, up to a week if you can.
 
This is my 1st fiberglass job. Really wanted to give it a try... SUPER messy stuff tho, in heinsight I should have done the entire dash like u said. I have a mess of pics i'll put up later but it's coming out real nice... blends w/ dash just how i'd hoped.
 
Hi Shawn,
Was great to meet you when I was over.

I really want you to get involved in the tuning of the Adaptronic. Like I told you in the conversation mate.

David would have more than likely told you I done you's a deal so you can get this car happening.
 
yeah! talking about cars and engines had it's hurdles for sure! One of us speaks w/ Australian accent... the other Cantonese/English.. and the other English, but we all had the same interests so we made it work. :18:



It was nice talking with you Neil, got some great ideas for my project, and my tranny rebuild. Thanks for the great deal too, really looking forward to learning the ropes as I heard this small unit is quite powerful. Just wire everything up... load a base map and road tune? (I'm sure there's much more too it than that lol)
 

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here's some progress of the cluster.


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