LS470

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Red Pheonix-

the price was what sucked me into this... but I will admit I have been dumping cheese into mine so I don't ever need to touch it again. I feel pretty confident about it. And as far as I can tell the only 1 that has tried it. Lex was the 1st to do the hybrid but he had custom forged pistons, not OEM 2uz. I have not fired mine up yet but in a few weeks I should have it going.

My builder took each piston top on a lathe and took off enough to make the curvature of each piston dome perfectly flat. It was only $10/piston. It was the piston machining that gives the drop in CR, 10:1 down to 8.8:1. If you have the whole assembly properly balanced I don't see why it shouldn't work just fine. I would strongly advise the forged chevy rods or stock early 1uz rods like I did. just re-used the parts from the 1uz. I suppose the hard edges will negatively affect HP, but not too worried about it. I guess smoothing out the hard edges would aid in more consistent air/fuel mix? I had no need for forged pistons at my low boost, and the stockers handle 12-14psi all day if tuned corrctly.
 
New peroblem:


Just got my flexplate bolts from toyota but cannot remember the order it's installed. I have the flexplate, and 2 metal spacers, does 1 go on the inside of the plate and 1 on the outside? Or both on the front?


I fit the flexplate to the crank, with both plates in front and the top of the teeth smack the starter gear, is this an assembly issue? Or possibly a compatability issue? All hardware is exact same between 1uz and 2uz.


Any help appreciated, as always
 
One spacer went on each side of the flex plate.

Thanks for the reply about the pistons. I i can see the sharp edges affecting it negatively, but I think boost can make up for it if anything.

This mod makes it great for boost with the CR.
 
RedPhoenix said:
Are you the first to do the modified piston tops for this 1uz/2uz hybrid? How confident are you on it? Looks like a great cheap solution to aftermarket pistons.
Click to expand...

I had too much compression (10.5:1) in my 1st 1UZ motor for the boost we were running, so we shaved the tops of the Wiseco pistons.

Afterward, we really struggled just to hit 500 BHP, however the motor had a number of other issues that were holding it back, so I can't say that shaving the pistons caused it to not make power.
 
cribbj said:
I had too much compression (10.5:1) in my 1st 1UZ motor for the boost we were running, so we shaved the tops of the Wiseco pistons.

Afterward, we really struggled just to hit 500 BHP, however the motor had a number of other issues that were holding it back, so I can't say that shaving the pistons caused it to not make power.
Click to expand...


Would that even be an issue (machined pistons)? I dont see how it could effect power so much where it would be even mentioned.

I am looking at this as a reliable 4.7L swap that could take some boost.

Now the question is... Are you using a 1uz crank or the 2uz crank?
 
2uz crank, and thats with the standard 2 bolt main. I know i'm downgrading from the 6 bolt but the rigid iron block and ARP main/rod/head studs, I can take 500crank hp easy. If I want more then I pull out my old 1uz main caps and have then machined for a 4-bolt upgrade, and with an additional main girdle then 750 should be within reach. using the supposed "weaker" block isn't a sealed fate, it isn't expensive to make it just as strong as 1uz.

My goal is ultimately 400rwhp, and feel my setup can take that with a good tune. Another nice feature about toyota iron blocks is that they are not entirely iron, they use a blend of iron and graphite to keep rigidity up and weight down. I took out my A/C pump and all extras and with my light weight seats it's the same weight as stock. You can pick up a used 4.7 (non vvti) and motor mounts for around $550, have pistons machined for another $100 and do the rest yourself if your really looking to save cheese. Just remember EVERY part swaps from the 1uz except the flywheel and water pump, great swap I thought.


there's a debate weather or not the 2uz is cast or forged... I still don't have enough facts to know for sure but have seen 2uz's take some serious power and never hear about failing crankshafts.
 
RedPhoenix said:
Would that even be an issue (machined pistons)? I dont see how it could effect power so much where it would be even mentioned.
Click to expand...

It's all in how you squish the gas in the chamber, which is most certainly affected by shaving the tops of the pistons......

Do a Google search with terms like "squish, quench". Good reading.
 
The flywheel/flexplate is different? Assuming the bolt pattern is different?

Now I remember reading one of Lex's threads awhile ago. the 1uz crank makes the engine not a 4.7 but like a 4.5? but revs faster where as the 2uz crank makes it a ~4.7 but revs slower. Any comment? Sorry if you feel like I am junking your thread, this is some great information.

cribbj said:
It's all in how you squish the gas in the chamber, which is most certainly affected by shaving the tops of the pistons......

Do a Google search with terms like "squish, quench". Good reading.
Click to expand...

Thank you, will do :)
 
Steve-

David and I both chipped in for 2 Adaptronic units. I have the unit, MSD 3-bar MAP sensor and just mounted my 295cc's, and a refurbished HP laptop just for tuning it.


Redpheonix-

The strokes between the UZ family are very close... but not exactly the same. Instead of increasing stroke for more cubes Toyota keeps the strokes similar but enlarge the bore to increase cubes. I remember holding my 1uz piston in one hand and 2uz in the other and the 2uz was noticibly larger, so the engine will rev the same no matter which crank you have(1uz heads rev higher than 2uz 6500vs5500). Remember that I swapped my 1uz rods onto the 2uz crank... rods are engineered for a certain stroke and the 2 blocks have such a close stroke that the rods intercharge. as for the water pump and flywheels they are also the exact same... I used the 4.7 water pump because it's suppsoed to use a steel gasket, not RTV so I kept it original as possible. The reason I kept the 4.7 flywheel was mostly for balancing reasons... figured keeping all factory weights as is would help a little when balancing everything, but holding the 2 wheels together they are identical.
 
spf_lexus said:
Steve-

David and I both chipped in for 2 Adaptronic units. I have the unit, MSD 3-bar MAP sensor and just mounted my 295cc's, and a refurbished HP laptop just for tuning it..
Click to expand...
I'm afraid the 295 cc injectors are too small for your 400 rwhp goal. You'll need at least 440-460 cc injectors with increasing fuel pressure for that goal. As long as the refurbished laptop won't freeze, then you're ok. :tongue:
 
Steve, I figure I can tune it easier with the 295cc's and for now it will work fine, but your totally right, no way 7psi on these will net me 400. More than that tho, I nee to be easy on my trans until I can get a spare rebuilt.

If it's a little on the slow side then i'll spend some cheese for another set of 415cc's and a 10psi pulley, thats gotta be around 70rwhp should these chevy ws56's start passing me :eek:uttahere:
 
Update



New major problem: Lextreme motor mounts don't work on an LS400. Just spend 5 hours with 4 people and plenty of tools/jacks/crain and no-way-in-hell. I even dropped the crossmember 2'' and rose the member around the engine but it doesn't fit. I got one side mounted up and left all the bolts threaded maybe 5 turns and the other side needed an additional 1.5'' of slack with the other mount loosely bolted up.

Now instead of towing my setup with the engine fully installed and ready for a tune, I get to to it up with an engine resting on the x-member and no motor mounts, I hav no idea what to do with so little time...
 
I completely didn't think of this issue. I bought the LS engine for my SC and the engine mounts are completely different. However, the holes are all the same so I just had to swap the SC mounts over and they're bolted on right away. Since the Lextreme 4.7 swap was originally for the SC, and the mounts had to be fabricated to fit the SC, I guess you'll have to fabricate the mounts to fit the LS.
 
I am surprise to find out the mounts are different. I have both sets and they look completely identical. LS400 is very tight and very hard to re-install engine back. The triad can install a 1uz in a sc less then 10 minutes (physical placement, not all hook ups) but would takes us couple of hours and lot s muscles. FYI, the engine mount (rubber Part) is different between SC and LS. SC has larger bolts. It is like 14 mm vs. 12 mm. So SC rubber bushing will not fit into LS crossmember.
 
I re-used an OEM LS400 mount, and replaced the snapped one with another "LS400 mount" so there's no way I bought SC mounts. Also, the backside of the maounts say "R" and "L" but they are wrong too, if I used L on the drive side there's no physical way to bolt it up correct.


I have had my engine on a crain for 3 days straight, been trying to do this in the 100 degree heat and even with 5 people and the subframe dropped it doesn't fit. Once side left bolted up with just a few threads turned is still not enough to allow the other side to come even close to the side of the block where it bolts up. We're talking degree difference here.
 
Ok so I gave it a third try and unbolted the pass. header and mount all together, and managed to get the driver side mounted up but here's where the fitting issues come in.

I then tried mounting the pass side and even managed to get it aligned and the bolts slid into the mount and cradle but the bottom of the bushing was like 15degrees off so when I droped the wight down on the mounts I had 1 side cool and the other holding up all the weight by the corner of the mount. The dowel pin and base of the bushing would not come close to seating with the angles of the cradle. if I loosened the other side both bushings would break IMO. Feels like fitting a square peg into a round hole...


I think the mounts need to be slightly wider and need a steeper angle versus the totally flat motor mount face.
 
Just got to thinking after an hour at the bar about what to do this time. I think maybe the tilted mount is because I did not have the nut tightened down on the underside of the cradle... possibly pull the 15 degree's out of the weird situation? Maybe the driver side mount (which is 75% torqued) pulling hard to it's side, making the pass side want to "Dip" and cause the bottom of the bush to lay flerxed on it's end, not flat like it should?


Cross them' fingers, maybe the mounts will level themselves out better with some tq...
 
Shawn,

Come by tomorrow morning and lets solve your problem. We need to compare SC and LS OEM mounts and see if there is any major difference. If no, then it is the installation issue. The Triad had a hard time installing the LS engine. It is very tight fit and lot of muscles involve. If you can bring me the LS mounts so I can compare it to the SC mounts. I am avialable in the morning.
 
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