HELP!!! Oil flow confusion plus......

[Boat Builder]

G'day all.

I'm fitting a 1UZ-FE into my boat and am a little confused with the oil flows.

The engine is complete (from an SC400 Soarer) and has not been pulled down so my understanding of the internals is limited.

The engine was supplied without the tranny which may be causing some of my confusion.

The are two lines which I presume are cooler lines or power steering lines and appear to be fed from an oil pump driven by the external belt. I dropped the oil out of the engine and it seriously needs changing but the oil in these lines and the pump is a beautiful honey colour. From my experience with dexron 111 style of transmission and power steering fluids, the hydraulic lines are normally red.

Can anybody shed any light on this for me as I don't want to destroy the engine by screwing up here and I am otherwise almost ready to crank the engine over.

One more question that I have is about the location of the fuel return line. I have located two lines from the F/I rails and presume that these are both fuel feed as they both go into regulators but I am yet to locate the overflow return line.

I've attached a few images with questions on them. Please excuse the low quality of the images as I only had my phone's camera with me.

There is also an image of the soon to be completed boat for those interested

Thanks

Rick
Melbourne, Australia.

 

[Lextreme II]

Welcome to our forum. Here is my answers:

Answer to picture #1:
Yes you can run it without the two line being connected. You have a SC400/Soarer engine with hydralic fan. You can disconnect them if you don't run engine fan.

Answer to picture #2:
That is a hydralic fan pump. Not an engine oil or transmission pump. The two lines are for the hydralic cooling fan. Exist and return line. You can delete the whole unit if you dont plan to run ac compressor.

Answer to picture #3:
You can just reconnect the two pipes or blank them off. I bypass the two outlets too.

Answer to picture #4:
Nice boat.....

The attach picture is my engine with deleted hydralic lines. I even delete the rear pipe from the hydralic fan pump.

 

[gloverman]

The fuel lines are easy. Picture #3 shows the inlet coming over the LH tappet cover to a pulsation dampener - no vaccuum hose fitted. This is to reduce the pulses from the rotary style fuel pump.
The fuel return comes from the pressure regulator on the RHF of the motor - it has a small vaccuum hose that runs to the front of the intake manifold. The line then runs along the fuel rails and exits the system at the rear of the motor.
Picture #3 show the heater hoses, the LH one is the return from the heater and runs back into the motor to the back of the waterpump. I would not recommended connecting them instead blank them off. Looping them means hot water can bypass any cooling.
Lex is correct about the front hydralic pump - I deleted mine by fitting a crown idler instead. I have also heard of people filling them with oil and then fitting bungs. I would be reluctant to run them without any lubrication for the bushes they have in them.
Good luck with the boat.
Cheers

 

[Boat Builder]

Thanks very much guys, that's a huge help.

Now to get stuck into it again.........

I'll post a couple of images of the engine in the boat when she's done.

Thanks again.

Rick H

 

[Lextreme II]

Gloverman,

Good points about the hydralic pump running without lubrication. I guess you can pour some hydralic fluid into the system and plug it up with two screws. You can also delete the low pipe. Its good think to know the Crown fan bracket is interchangeble.

 

[Cobber]

If you are going to leave the fan pump pulley in place another method is to.

1, Remove all of the internal components from the hydraulic pump (do this anyway).
2, Remove the seal that sits between the two bearings.
3, Install a grease nipple to the tell tale hole that is in the front housing you will then be able to grease the rear bearing.

Or junk the whole lot if you dont need that pulley.

 

[UZZ30-Québec]

anyway if this engine has to go in a boat, the only thing you need to drive with the crank pulley is the water pump and alternator right?

 

[Lextreme II]

1, Remove all of the internal components from the hydraulic pump (do this anyway).
2, Remove the seal that sits between the two bearings.

That is what I did this evening. You have to loosen the pulley nut clockwise. Yes, its clockwise to loosen. I tried to use a pulley puller and didn't work. I used a grinder and cut if off.

Ok got the pictures. I need to grind out two little stabilizer pins. Looks pretty awesome and I also place the alternator right at the hydralic pulley position...