Engine Light on dash

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

V8_IS200_marcus

New Member
Messages
342
Location
London-UK
Hi guys, i have the engine all wired up to my IS200, and it start ok, and runs ok, but on the dash the engine light stays on? makeing me think something is not right, what could it be ? I have no EGR on the car now, but i have not put the 10K resister in the EGR plug yet, would this make the light stay on....??

any help with this would be good, :)

Thanks
 
egr???
egr is only on usa based ecus

anyway if check engine light is on mean u have an error code
just bridge out terminals and see what code come up

its much quicker to do that then come on here and write a story bout it thats y they invented the error code light

if they had a light in the dash saying post on forums then u can come here and do that

heheheheheh
 
egr???
egr is only on usa based ecus

anyway if check engine light is on mean u have an error code
just bridge out terminals and see what code come up

its much quicker to do that then come on here and write a story bout it thats y they invented the error code light

if they had a light in the dash saying post on forums then u can come here and do that

heheheheheh


lol you are funny some times,:laugh2:

OK how/what do i bridge, to get the code?


as my dash dont tell me how to do it :biggrin:
 
hehe

what u want me to say

how fking hard is it to search how tro get codes on a toyota

after u wired it all up and it being a hard job asnd u did a good job getting it all runing
getting codes is a walk in the park

i think more people should research then try things
that way they might learn something

anyway incase u cant be bothered searching google


bridge te1 and e1 on the diag plug
 
hehe

what u want me to say

how fking hard is it to search how tro get codes on a toyota

after u wired it all up and it being a hard job asnd u did a good job getting it all runing
getting codes is a walk in the park

i think more people should research then try things
that way they might learn something

anyway incase u cant be bothered searching google


bridge te1 and e1 on the diag plug

Thanks sideshow:biggthumpup: you top guy.
 
Hi guys, i pulled the code today, and its No:12 = RPM and that the only code it give me, as i did wait to see if there was any more, but it just keep giveing me the same one,

your help please guys, (sideshow) ;) how do i fix this, is this bad? car starts and runs hhmmm ok i would say!!
 
BUMP!!!


cars not running so well now, please help? i all so get a poping sound from engine, not all the time just now and then, but when i hear it i turn engine of as i dont know what it is? ( your input please guys)

the car did have a cold start on it? but i have done away with this,

i am also runing a Turbo on my setup!

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • ls 400 ver2s.jpg
    ls 400 ver2s.jpg
    107.5 KB · Views: 47
BUMP!!!


cars not running so well now, please help? i all so get a poping sound from engine, not all the time just now and then, but when i hear it i turn engine of as i dont know what it is? ( your input please guys)

the car did have a cold start on it? but i have done away with this,

i am also runing a Turbo on my setup!

Thanks

Marcus,

I'd first of all get the engine running right before you confuse the issue with putting a turbo on it. Once the basics of the engine are OK then you can start playing with turbos etc.

Where is the popping sound coming from, the inlet or the exhaust.

If the inlet you may have a misfire, if the exhaust you may have an air leak from one of the manifolds( likely if you have been hanging Turbos of one or both).

It really is a question of getting back to basics. Check all the wiring you have put in so far and make sure that the ignitors are earthed, all the injectors are getting power, the fuel is getting through, the firing order is correct, all leads are connected and connections are solid.

Reinstate the cold start and get the engine running sweet as standard.

Then when you change something and the engine starts complaining you know what needs to be addressed.

BTW a bad backfire can wreck the AFM so try the engine without the AFM connected. If it runs better on default settings you know the AFM is buggared.

Cheers,

Tony
 
Hi mate, yea it sounds good what you say, but i can not run the car with out the turbo on it as all the headers have been made to fit a turbo, and the setup is made to take a turbo, sorry to say trying to get it to run with out the turbo is a no go, poping sounjd has gone now, i have new leads and plugs on there way, so i will let you know how it gos, when i get them fitted

Marcus,

I'd first of all get the engine running right before you confuse the issue with putting a turbo on it. Once the basics of the engine are OK then you can start playing with turbos etc.

Where is the popping sound coming from, the inlet or the exhaust.

If the inlet you may have a misfire, if the exhaust you may have an air leak from one of the manifolds( likely if you have been hanging Turbos of one or both).

It really is a question of getting back to basics. Check all the wiring you have put in so far and make sure that the ignitors are earthed, all the injectors are getting power, the fuel is getting through, the firing order is correct, all leads are connected and connections are solid.

Reinstate the cold start and get the engine running sweet as standard.

Then when you change something and the engine starts complaining you know what needs to be addressed.

BTW a bad backfire can wreck the AFM so try the engine without the AFM connected. If it runs better on default settings you know the AFM is buggared.

Cheers,

Tony
 
Hi guys, im still geting code 12 but im all so geting code 31, i know 31 is airflow, and 12 is RPM #1, whats this and how can i fix it, im sure its the leads or coil, i have new leads on there way to me, and i have 2 coils from a 2nd 1UZ i have sitting, but i will wait till i get the leads before i replace any coils,

i have a vid of the car running and i will post it up later let me know what you guys think......

Thanks :)
 
Hi guys, im still geting code 12 but im all so geting code 31, i know 31 is airflow, and 12 is RPM #1, whats this and how can i fix it, im sure its the leads or coil, i have new leads on there way to me, and i have 2 coils from a 2nd 1UZ i have sitting, but i will wait till i get the leads before i replace any coils,

i have a vid of the car running and i will post it up later let me know what you guys think......

Thanks :)


well what can i say, had a paly around with it once i did this post, and put a 2nd hand airflow sensor in and all seems ok, but still geting code 12, but it dont seem to be upseting anything, im still going to replace the leads and plugs this week comeing,

i will let you guys know how it is once i have done them.... but for now im happy :)
 


Top