Dura Fix Aluminum Brazing Product

[cribbj]

Stuff looks interesting. It's supposed to work well for any non-ferrous metal: http://durafix.com/index.html

Pretty impressive video of it: http://durafix.com/demo/256.html

 

[Lextreme II]

WOW... i need some.... Great find...

 

[cribbj]

Great, if you buy it & use it, let's hear how well it works (or not). I was going to buy some "just to have it when I need it" but I've already got so much jun... er spare parts, like that laying around that I wouldn't be able to find it if I did need it.

Wife says I need to throw a bunch of stuff out; I say I need another rollaround and set of shelves, and a bigger garage.

 

[Lextreme II]

I almost ordered but they didnt take paypal. Gotta call to day and order some. That will save me a lot of money from a local aluminum welding shop. They charge $20 for every tinny weld.

 

[XR8tt]

So I can sell my $7k tig ???
No Argon gas rental...
Would be good for intercoolers...
I think the air conditioning guys use something like this ??

 

[Lextreme II]

Ordered 2 lbs. I will try it and take a video of it. Don't get it. I can send u some when u need them. I ordered two pounds that is like 44 pieces.

 

[cribbj]

Cool, I was thinking this stuff would be good for joining intercooler piping, mounting BOV flanges, etc.

I'm curious if it'll fix stripped threads - one part of the video hinted that it might do that, and if so, it would be better than helicoiling.

Wonder if it would fix cracked blocks or heads? On 2nd thought, it's probably not good for a cracked head as it apparently becomes liquid at 730 degrees F.....

 

[Lextreme II]

Aluminum welding is the hardest for me. I think Markstoy would remember my aluminum skill LOL... Now this product my save me.

 

[skid]

Cool, I was thinking this stuff would be good for joining intercooler piping, mounting BOV flanges, etc. Wonder if it would fix cracked blocks or heads? On 2nd thought, it's probably not good for a cracked head as it apparently becomes liquid at 730 degrees F.....

Errr.. does anyone think it can be used for inlet manifold construction????

I wonder........

 

[striker]

AHHH please guys

From day one I started on my twin charged project I allready told about this stuff. that's about a year back or so?

I have used it to solder various things together, even a complete intake manifold, and loads of other small bits in mostly in cooling systems.

it's wonderfull, b
ut you need to pratice a lot to get welds really nice, do everything the leaflet says, clean with the wire brush that comes with it, burn, clean, brun, then clean some more, heat it up some more, the clean again. did I allready mention you need to use the brush to clean it up a little??? so has it been shiny? is it still shiny? then put some more heat in until it goes dull, take awat the flame and gently touch the pieces with the rod, it will melt off and harden within seconds, leave it to cool and you're done. but make sure it's CLEAN and the clean part kept in the flame until hot enough to solder.

it also helps a lot of the gap between the to parts is kept as small as possible.

youse the flame to heat the matterial not the rod itself or it will become a complete mess

also joints are much stronger than I expected from this stuff, but peel strength is not all that so don;t build anything constructive with it.
I soldered 2 pieces of 20 X 20 X 2mm angle alluminium with it, it took a bench vice, a grip vice and two sore hands and 20minutes to seperate it the weld broke due to the peel strength, the angle pieces where not recognisable anymore as such and the molten rod was still in one piece.

Grtz Thomas

ps found the vid http://www.durafix.nl/videos/Durafix_Basic_Application_Instructions.wmv

 

[cjsupra90]

I have used this stuff to and it does work pretty good. The key thing is like said in the video is to heat the parts to be welded, not the rod itself just as you would in standard soldering or brazing. I wouldn't use it though on anything that strength is critical, but other then that it is pretty good stuff if used correctly.

I actually tried it in the sence of Tig Brazing and seemd to work pretty good that way too.

 

[Lextreme II]

I got the package yestersday and I had some time so I try to do what the video instructed. I wasted 3 sticks and didnt go anywhere. I clean the surface with the SS brush, heat the aluminum (not the sticks) but the result was inconsistant. Anyway, I need more practice and we will see.

 

[striker]

heat the part and keep the tip of the stick that touches it in constant motion, that will help a lot.

and don;t be surprized for alluminium to take a long time to heat up to the correct temp, I made a manifold for a toyota starlet 1.3 12v engine and the flange of the thing was 5mm thick the tubes where thin wall thickness T6 tube, the outer 2 tubes went on in 7 to 8 minutes but the middle 2 took about 17min of constant propane torch flame to reach solderable temperature, heatsoak in it is enourmous.

if the temperature is to low, the rod will melt but not attach to the material, givving an uneven finnish that seems very brittle.
can you take a piccie of the result you're not happy with?

I'll try and take some piccies tommorow of some new-years-eve LPG tank Carbid blasting equipment I made up.

Grtz Thomas

 

[Lextreme II]

I tried again few days ago and noticed hotter flame works better. I need one of those build in ignitor.

 

[striker]

haha burnt the fingers then?

I did:guilty: ........... several times

grtz Thomas

 

[Big]

Looks like it would be a hit for the home DIY'r like myself that doesn have a tig on hand..LOL very interesting stuff..:smokin:

 

[mshawari1]

Try this tip:

Use a small painting brush with H2SO4 to clean up the surface after some heating ..

its work fine . ​

 

[XR8tt]

Sulfuric acid ??? I always got hydrochloric and sulphuric mixed up ???

I'd say diluted ....
School was along time back... But I realy liked science...Teacher was pita though...

 

[edz]

I tried again few days ago and noticed hotter flame works better. I need one of those build in ignitor.

David, check out this Australian site - http://www.durafix.com.au/index.php You will find better instructions and videos (and a much better web site). This is a great product, I believe the guy who invented it (about 20 years ago) makes it in his garage about an hour away from me in Goulburn. He did the right thing and patented it worldwide.

The trick is to heat the parent metal and use the rod like solder, stirring the surface to drag impurities out. Lots of great info there. Practice makes perfect.

Edz