Critique my single turbo headers

[stilltippin]

There are two places a MAF can go ..Between aircleaner and turbo [draw through] and anywhere after intercooler [blow through].. Usually atleast 8" straight pipe before so air is equal over maf...
The intake is more dense on blow through.. Depends how these air meters work ?? I have seen Supra meters used..
Tmk they are draw through ??

Thank you for the clarification, I'm a bit dense sometimes too. I think I will be able to achieve close to 12" of straight pipe before the MAF, but then right after the MAF it does a 90*. I have been basically copying another fellas design and he seemed to have success with the MAF setup like this, but he came in at more of an angle. Now that you mention the two styles, I notice it now. I'm looking through Super Street as I'm sitting in the airport and I am starting to see the difference. I definitely don't have space to put the MAF before as I'll most likely run a screen because a 4" filter probably won't fit.

I really do appreciate the help, in a perfect world I would be buying a standalone. In time that will come but for now, I just want to start the thing. I'd be interested if I could make the Supra MAF work, I'd assume it's a Karmon Vortex meter as well. Isn't the point of FI to have more dense air, so wouldn't it be better to put it as a blow through to achieve a denser intake charge?

 

[XR8tt]

The last sentence isn't quite right..
The air IS compressed once it goes through turbo / blower and the resistance of heads etc create boost pressure ..Which makes it more dense than atmo...
It depends how the maf reads the air ?? I see they are not the HOT wire style as used on most U.S vehicles.. It would possibly have LESS chance of pegging the way you have fitted it.. MOST turbo Mustangs do it this way...
With the MAF out front.. The air speed would be higher as its NOT compressed..
BUT the MAF may peg ?? Google Supra air meters ?? Seems they fit 1UZ meters with higher flowing injectors and keep reasonable calibration ???

 

[stevechumo]

I ran 11 psi before with with stock MAF with no problem. Now I run 15 MAP, so I can't tell.

 

[dean]

Thank you for the clarification, I'm a bit dense sometimes too. I think I will be able to achieve close to 12" of straight pipe before the MAF, but then right after the MAF it does a 90*. I have been basically copying another fellas design and he seemed to have success with the MAF setup like this, but he came in at more of an angle. Now that you mention the two styles, I notice it now. I'm looking through Super Street as I'm sitting in the airport and I am starting to see the difference. I definitely don't have space to put the MAF before as I'll most likely run a screen because a 4" filter probably won't fit.

I really do appreciate the help, in a perfect world I would be buying a standalone. In time that will come but for now, I just want to start the thing. I'd be interested if I could make the Supra MAF work, I'd assume it's a Karmon Vortex meter as well. Isn't the point of FI to have more dense air, so wouldn't it be better to put it as a blow through to achieve a denser intake charge?

To save money and space in my hilux engine bay( twin turbo blow through system ) i been tossing up the idea not to run my intercooler witch will make the air less dense and the tungsten wire ( hot wire) wouldnt register that there isnt more airflow happening and not adjusting the fuel input, im going to run a piggy back ecu to manual tune and adjust the fuel pm for the gear im using and can u post a link to this guys build u are roughly following keen to see.
and yes in a perfect world we would all runn aftermarket ecus, and throw as much $$$$ as we could at it.

 

[XR8tt]

No hot wire..They use Kerman Vortex system..

In the Toyota models which employ this type of sensor, the connector is five-pin. A LED, mirror and photo receptor are used to count the pressure changes. The mirror is mounted on the end of a very weak leaf spring which is placed over a hole leading directly to the area in the sensor where the vortices form (this bit is the vortex generator). Every time a vortex forms, the drop in pressure wiggles the spring which makes the reflected light from the LED flicker as it is picked up by the photo receptor. The vibrations of the mirror produced by the vortices makes the light flicker on and off in proportion to the air flow.
The photo receptor inside the sensor creates an on-and-off digital signal which varies in frequency in direct proportion to the air flow. At idle, when air flow is low, the signal frequency is also low (around 30 Hz). As the air flow increases, the frequency of the signal increases. At high speed the signal may get to at least 160 Hz.

 

[dean]

is this on the 1uz?? i thought it was a hot wire setup?

 

[dean]

and stilltippen i looked at your manifold photos and see if you can get a company that has one of those big vibrator barrels (polishers) that has heaps of pebbles in them so they can smooth out the inside of your manifolds to maximise flow and minimise turbularnce, im a welder from aust and u should try purging your pipes for better quality welds and penetration and i could help minimise all the crapp getting inside the manifold itself just a idea. AND DONT USE GALVO, im really hoping thats not galvo steel in them manifolds use steam pipe or thick walled mild steel and get a hot cermaic coating in it. ask member cHe where he got his done looks trick as good luck dont forget to check out my tt hilux build

 

[stilltippin]

is this on the 1uz?? i thought it was a hot wire setup?

Yes, a 92' Lexus LS400.

and stilltippen i looked at your manifold photos and see if you can get a company that has one of those big vibrator barrels (polishers) that has heaps of pebbles in them so they can smooth out the inside of your manifolds to maximise flow and minimise turbularnce, im a welder from aust and u should try purging your pipes for better quality welds and penetration and i could help minimise all the crapp getting inside the manifold itself just a idea. AND DONT USE GALVO, im really hoping thats not galvo steel in them manifolds use steam pipe or thick walled mild steel and get a hot cermaic coating in it. ask member cHe where he got his done looks trick as good luck dont forget to check out my tt hilux build

It is not Galvanized, but Aluminized steel, which is what most exhaust shops use to build custom exhaust. I was a bit worried about the mild aluminized steel, but it seems as others have built their cars with it. I definitely need to build a T fitting to allow a separate purging line for the pipes. I've seen people use a valve to open and close the purge line to help achieve better welds and not have gas flowing constantly through the purge line. There is a local ceramic coating place that has a great reputation, I just want to keep it cheap and last time I checked it was about $100.

 

[dean]

make sure your steel is super clean because mild steel has the worse rep of persosity. thing to look for when tigging, when the weld pool gets like a mirror really shines that's the best indicator to push your bead along and put more filler wire, most of the porosity has come out of it by that stage

and i have a 92 ls400. so is it a little tungsten wire or one of these other afms. im using the blow through method did and one come to the conclusion its actually going to work ? the blow through that is

 

[stilltippin]

make sure your steel is super clean because mild steel has the worse rep of persosity. thing to look for when tigging, when the weld pool gets like a mirror really shines that's the best indicator to push your bead along and put more filler wire, most of the porosity has come out of it by that stage

and i have a 92 ls400. so is it a little tungsten wire or one of these other afms. im using the blow through method did and one come to the conclusion its actually going to work ? the blow through that is

Hey, thanks for the tip, I've definitely started to get better at it as I had no experience with a tig before. Now I am starting to get better with shielding and moving the bead. I did find that mild to mild or stainless to stainless is easier to do then stainless to mild that's for sure. I am also getting the hang of feeding the wire as well as the type of wire I should be using for certain medals.

As far as the style of Mass Air Flow/Air Flow Meter that's used in the LS400 is called a Karmon Vortex meter, and if you google it, it basically measures the amount of air as it flows through the meter, it causes the air to spin in a vortex. How it's measured is through an LED that basically reads the speed or whatever in the vortex and basically adjust the a/f ratio according to what the LED reads. That's just how I understand it.
As Stevechumo said, I think he ran up to 10psi of boost on the OE AFM, I know a few more who run it as a blow through and crank theirs up to 7psi, which is where I am going to start for now.