cranks but wont fire...what the eff!!!

[Zuffen]

Inside each distributor is a rotor button that distributes the spark to the correct plug lead.

They only go in one way but if you force it or just get it wrong you can instal them 180 degrees out.

Do you have spark on all or any cylinders.

There's not much that can be wrong.

First the engine needs spark at the plugs to fire. Check to see if you have spark. Best way is take a plug lead off a plug and use an old spark plug in the lead and sit it on the cam cover. Have someone crank the engine and watch the plug for a blue spark. Easy to do in a darkened garage as you can see it easier. If you have spark my next test would be fuel.

Each coil has a wire plugged into it and as you've worked around the water bridge I'd double check they are plugged in.

Easiest way to see you have fuel is to crack a fuel union on one of the fuel rails with a 17mm spanner. Fuel should spray out under pressure. You don't need to crank the engine to do this test. Turn on the ignition for a few seconds to ensure the pump pressurises the fuel rails then turn off the ignition to do the test. This will ensure there are no stray sparks to set the fuel on fire!

If you have fuel pressure have someone crank the engine and using a long screwdriver listen to an injector to see if you can hear it clicking as it opens and closes. An alternative is to use a test light on the non black/orange wire running from any injector to see if it is being powered when the engine cranks. If it's getting power it will blink on and off each time the injector fires.

Once you've done these tests let us know what you have or don't have and we'll move forward from there.

 

[570cki]

i have same problem but got no spark n no power to my fuel pump n no power to crank sensor on my ls400 90 model celsior???

 

[BigKriss]

Power to the crank sensor ?? I thought these are magnetic reluctors, requires no power externally . These put out a varying sine wave of differing magnitude related to rpm only. A Hall sensor requires power.
You may have another problem here.

 

[xxtoobsxx]

I have fuel, spark and compression. My mechanic thinks when it overheated it may have toasted the bearings a bit. It just doesnt seem to crank fast enough. When rotating by hand its not easy (all my other motors rotate easily). Im thinking maybe thats the problem. Either way the combustion should turn it. I am not sure if i mentioned this but after cranking for a few seconds a puff of white smoke will come out of the intake. I had this posting on ClubLexus too so im not sure if i mentioned it here! Any new ideas?

 

[shady1]

I just did that. Even had my mechanic do it again and we each checked it. Everyone is dumfounded. Is anyone here in the socal area that wants to maybe help me?

Have you verified whether your getting spark at the coil pack to each distributer, by pulling the coil wire out and trying to start the motor. If no spark no start.

 

[xxtoobsxx]

Yes sir i did, i have spark at all the right places, fuel and everything. I think the twisted cam idea is the most prevalent theory. Or maybe the main bearings are fried so it doesn't crank fast enough!

 

[LXS-180]

Even thou you have said the spark plugs are new, have you tried checking them? It sounds VERY similar to my prob, apparently the computer that is running my 1uz (microtech) isnt the best for writing fuel maps for when the car is cold (or something to that extent) and if the motor isnt warmed up properly and actually driven, after a few starts the plugs fouled up with crap.. took them out, cleaned them, away she went... I changed the water pump a few months ago, and after that it wouldnt start proplery, timing belt was fine, but just wouldnt go... it was a last resort me cleaning the plugs too, stumpped the previous owner and a couple other mechanics!

 

[xxtoobsxx]

Maybe my ecu is bad? I still dont have it running, I still have spark, plugs are all good and not fouled. great compression and everything...I still dont know what is going on and i still have no idea why white smoke shoots out the intake after cranking it a few times!

 

[spf_lexus]

Do you have a ground for each head? My engine would not start at all until I ran 2 grounds, 1 per rear of head. Its a small detail but it meant the difference between a 2 second start and not a click from the starter.

 

[spf_lexus]

(EDIT) did not read "cranks.... not start" sorry!

 

[xxtoobsxx]

lol...its cool. its super annoying, going on 1.5 years of it not running

 

[DTM340i]

Hey all, I have a similar problem at the moment after a rebuild,

Rod I have read your advice in this thread and will be double checking fuel pressure injectors etc tonight.

I have checked power to the coil packs and both have power to them,

What are the chances of BOTH coil packs failing at the same time? They both worked fine prior to rebuild, just find it hard to believe that they would BOTH expire at same time.

Does anyone know, if igniters are stuffed would you still get power to coil packs?

Thought I would add to this thread being similar issue,

Thanks in advance

 

[sideshow]

I can't believe it's so bloody hard
U need four things to start motor
Comp
Fuel
Air
Spark
If mechanicals are ok u should have air and comp
If u r not sure on fuel spray some down the butterfly
Very easy
Then to test spark use a bloody long screw driver
Then if u don't have spark work your way back
To figure y u don't have spark

So if your car doesn't try to start when u put fuel down
Throttle then look at spark
Also check to hear if injectors are clicking using long flat blade screwdriver as stethoscope

If all else fails goto school and learn mechanics
Like I did. Heheeheheheh

 

[Zuffen]

Jim's right about the way to check it out.

Do you have the igniters earthed (properly!)?

Working on an injected engine is no different to working on a carby engine. You need to methodically work your way back from the spark plugs if it doesn't have spark.

Same with fuel, you work your way back from the injectors to the tank.

If you think about it the vehicle was running before it was wrecked so the odds of it not runing now (unless there is an obvious squashed component!) is low.

This only leaves 1 reason for it not running. You have a problem in your instal.

I know about problems as I had a few when I first tried to start mine. How does having the fuel pump polarity reversed so it was pumping back into the tank rather than to the engine.

Work through it methodically and you'll get it running.

Double check you wiring as it's easy to make a slip up if you're not a Sparkie like Jim.

Feel free to Pm me and I'll see if I can talk you through it.

 

[DTM340i]

All good, it goes. Thanks guys. Was crank angle sensor which I worked out myself,

Not bad for a retard hey Jim

 

[sideshow]

Yes
As long as u learnt something

 

[sideshow]

I guess I won't be getting a Xmas card from the rod shop this year hehehehehe
Everyone knows I'm harsh on the forums
Maybe fellows will still send me one hehee

 

[sideshow]

I mean dellows
Bloody spell helper suxs

 

[DTM340i]

Jim, im not sure whats going on with your attitude,
I understand you can be harsh on the forums when idiotic questions are asked but are you harsh to everyone that has paid you $600+ to do a loom?
Are you normally harsh to people who have recommended literally hundreds of people to you making you money?
The question was not directly to you anyway, and the two questions I asked were specifically

What are the chances of BOTH coil packs failing at the same time?

Does anyone know, if igniters are stuffed would you still get power to coil packs?

I had already done everything you had listed and was at this point

To figure y u don't have spark

Which is what my questions related to, what are the chaces of two coil packs packing it in at once and if igniters werent any good, would the coil packs still get power (which they were).

Instead you want to be smart about it and NOT answer the questions, why even bother posting?

As for learning mechanics, I rebuild the motor myself.

Rest assured I wont bother you with any more questions.

I have learned something Jim. If you cant do it yourself, learn how to do it and save yourself from having to pay people. The rebuild and sorting out the final teething problems has made me realise I can do anyhthing if I put my mind to it.

I dont work for the Castlemaine Rod Shop anymore by the way.

thanks to Rod, David, Neil and others who have been helpful during the last 3 years, greatly appreciated.

 

[sideshow]

my comments werent based purely at u either
as u didnt start this thread so not sure y u aimed it back at me
i just generally commented on people have problems then dont know what they r doing
then first thing they do is hop on forums
the next problem u get 50 million guys giving advice who should not be
they say this might be prob or that might be prob but never give reason to how they came to that conclusion
half the time they get a bumm steer
but hey only 10% of stuff u read on the net is actually gospel