Cooling problems on my V8 Hilux

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I am sorry, they use Toyota Landcruiser radiator .. not Patrol .

If this is the case. I suggest you to continue with the installation for the BMW radiator also install the A/C condenser in the front and make sure the air can't escape between the two radiators by blocking the edges. After that put two electrical 14" pusher fans in the front of the condenser and leave the space between the engine and the radiator empty to let the air pushed to go away.
 
we have done many hilux and have now worked out a good system.
We used to have the standard radiator rebuilt with the three core diesel core and fit two 10 inch fans on the front. So the fans fit nicely the front panel has about 20mm trimmed off each side. This worked well with no issues
We where doing one on the cheap and had a VP V8 commodore radiator laying around and fitted that with the same fan setup and it is the best one we have done. This is now my choice as brand new radiators are cheap and alloy options are avaliable. Fitting hoses is also easier.
Never remove the internals on a bypass thermostat.
I have also seen a 4x4 hilux which had the radiator moved forward under the front support panel with the factory hydralic fan - being used for winching and hard 4x4 driving and that had no issues with cooling either.
Position of the engine in the bay will also make a difference allowing are to flow around the engine and exit under the vehicle. Too hard against the firewall can cause a problem.
One thing to note is we are in NZ and hot summer days are around 35 degrees C.
Cheers
 
I had a look at my thermostat and the people who did the conversion cut the inside of the thermostat out. The guy that fitted the latest radiator completely removed it. I went to my local stealer to buy a new thermostat, but the one they oredered was too big, eventhough I wanted to give them the sample of the cut-out one, but they said that won't help them. Now they don't want to take the wrong one back, so I have to order a new one. I don't want to make a mistake again, so do they only come in 2 sizes, and from what year till when did the 1UZ have the smaller thermostat, because they can only order according to the year.
 
I always use the genuine one - part number 90916-03129 which fits up to 1998 1uz that I know of. Mechanics really show a lack of knowledge when they remove a bypass type thermostat. It can cause more damage than good - cheers
 
I think all the pre 98 1UZ & 2UZ have the same thermostat size? Right.

I've tried to remove it and I get more heat!!
 
Thats all very well, but I'd like to see anyone get something like that into a Hilux. There just isn't room. With a 38mm thick radiator, I have 80mm clearance to the engine. The radiator can't be moved forward and the motor is sitting back pretty much hard up against the fire wall after some serious massaging of the firewall. Thats it, end of story. We have to work with what we have. Basically, the 1UZ wasn't meant to go into this engine bay and I would dearly love to have a little extra room to fit an engine driven fan, or the hydraulic one but unfortunately it won't go.
Ric


Hi, new guy here, I'm using one of these...http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/zirgo/details.lasso?itemid=zfb16s as a pusher fan in front of my trucks original diesel radiator.
I have also modified the bonnet (hood) into one big vent, as you can see in this photo....

DSC00013.jpg


Hopefully, this will be enough to keep the UZ cool even in the hottest temperatures we (sometimes) get in the U.K.:shysmile:
 
I have also seen a 4x4 hilux which had the radiator moved forward under the front support panel with the factory hydralic fan - being used for winching and hard 4x4 driving and that had no issues with cooling either.

I'm getting ready to dive in to this swap on an 86 4runner and was considering this exact idea. Happen to have any pictures?
 
i bought a trd 72 degree thermostat was around 120 bucks but helps bring temps down once i start moving again

i find the factory toyota thermostat has not enough water flow

so i drill 2 or 3 tiny holes round outer edges to increase water flow slightly

the main culprit is when u are cruising say at 2grand rpm at 60 kms in traffic

anyway i had my scanner on a stock soarer and temps said 97 so i guess 97 is ok temp for these toyota engines

i just hate it when my gauge goes over 95

but at end of day 95 is not really bad
 
Something I might be overlooking, is the fact that my engine is still seriously underpowered.
One of the possible problems suggested here was that I might have slipped a tooth on the cams. My friend who runs the local toy dealer's workshop, said they've also seen it.

If this is the problem, how will it affect the heat?
 
check for codes on the ecu

if the cam belt is out a tooth it will bring up error code 13

i have a special tool and have found a way to readjust the cambelt if its out a tooth or so without removing the while front end of the engine
 
i havent had a problem with mine since day one
i did a 2'' body lift on a 93 dualcab 4x4 which allowed me to get the engine bac about another 20mm (not much but u guys know its heaps in a lux) then i cut bout 10mm outa the radiator support panel, i also have the condensor in the original position and run an arb winch bar with 2 lightforce 240blitz litz in it.
My radiator is a alloy dual bypass one its about 38mm thick and fits to the original radiator mounts on the hilux it then has a alloy shroud thats sits 15mm of the radiator with a davies craig 12'' mounted right in the middle of the shroud and obviously its a pulling one since the condensors in the way and after all that i still got 15mm between fan hub and idler puller centre.
My temps have range between 85c and 105c from drivin it hard on and off road its also got a 6'' lift and runnin 33's and thousands of drivin lights (alternator gets a work out lol)
the problem with radiators is if u go to big volume wise the water pump cant pump the coolant therefore slowing down the process and coolant ends up hot. What u might have found with the smaller bmw radiator is it was close to being the right volume and then goin to the bigger one was goin to far for the pump to push it . U can do things like machining the water pump so the impellor sits closer but to much trouble if it dont need it.
Guttin the thermostats a waste of time its a quick fix if ya stuck in the bush (might as well do it right the first time)
At the end of the day i just took my time and nutted it out from what i had learnt on previous hilux coversions and made it better Mind u my radiator did cost me bout $1600 but money well spent so far and it beats tryin to bodge it every 2 days been there done that spendin the coin is the only way on a cooling system
 
My cam timing turned out to be way off. Since that has been corrected the cooling is much better. I was driving around town with a bit of stop/start traffic last week in 25C weather with the fans disconnected and the temp didn't go up. Offroad I dug it into sand dune agressively, and the temp went up quite a bit. I just think I need proper airflow across the rad, as those pathetic 12" cheapy fans I have at the moment are an insult to the V8.
 
Hey has anyone had any luck with this conversion and cooling yet??? I'm just about ready to drop a radiator in and would love some advice

Yes

Quite a lot.. My own runs a standard yet serviced Diesel Surf Radiator with a Spal 16 inch fan as do all others that I've done. I've been lazy and wired the fan up off the fuel pump relay but the rest run '92 Honda Prelude fan switches as the temp range is about right. Remember I'm in Perth where it does get over 45 and most of the time she won't go over 86 degrees coolant temp and won't come out of cold start so higher idle. I have a winch bar on the front and lightforce lights. Only issue has been since I got the A/C going where the temp creeps up but while not to overheat to a level that I'm not comfortable with. This thanks to a guy in the US who isn't a member here but who I helped with his conversion with advice has worked out that in the "Hybrid" A/C system we've left a bit out. While the internals of the compressors might be the same as are the evaps, condensors and TX valves on the V8s there is a "pressure relief valve" fitted in the LP side of the system which must be fitted. Lack of this causes a build up in "Head pressure" and latent heat as a result. Hence engine temp climbing and engine feeling like it's being strangled.

I'll also never ever forget a discussion with the guy from Aussie Desert coolers at Motorvation this year. "You'll never get a 1U to cool with a Surf radiator" "Really?" "Yes" "Here's the keys, Surf is over there. Go tell it".. "You!! You are the only one in aussie that has been able to do that!! How?" Back to basics
 
the surfs have two different radiators depending on what engine it is (5l or 1kz-te, i think thas right) which engines did you conversions have previously. The reason i ask as the 1kz-te rad is quite abit taller (475mm for the 5l and 550mm for the 1kz) so when your saying using stock surf two people could be talking about two different sized rads.
 
everyone tries to sell u alloy radiators

i went to alloy rad and only half fixed the prob
on a day over 40 degrees my 1uz hit 110 heheheh
i just kept driving it
i recon sometimes its luck of the draw hehheheeheh
ive seen many not over heat and some do over heat
i think deisel radiators work better than petrol thou
also trd thermostat doesnt really help much either
also something might work ok on one car and not on another similar car

if its not boiling i would also make sure temp gauge is accurate
ive had my scanner on afew toyota motors in their original body all factory and the 1uzs
and 2js etc etc all run about 95 to 100 degrees std
 
Ive done all models of Surf from 4 cylinder petrol , V6 and diesel , early 60 series , 130 series and 185s. I used the biggest diesel Rad with 3 core and yes the 1kz rads are taller. I use stock radiators and alloy radiators. Sideshow is right in the factory cars they do sit quite high.
 


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