Conservative 1/4 Mile Times....

[jibbby]

Ok, I have been posting on 1/4 mile threads, as you guys can see..etc.. as I have been reaseaching to see what most modified and stock 400's Lexus's/Soares do in the quarter mile times...I have found only two SC400's that have reached the high 12's in the quarter, most TT's, supercharged, swapped 6 bangers with turbo's etc... run mid to low 13's.....Stock but modified 400's high 14's and 15's...

My car is no different then most, just tuned, all external mods pretty much and running nos, I have good traction..No coilovers, no straight pipes, stock internals, stock auto tranny (increased line pressure that is it)..Oh and 150lbs off the stock weight..

Now, I have raced my best friends new two door G35 (manual) Infinity (280hp rating at stock) maybe 5 or 6 times..I am neck and neck 0-60mph using no nos, and he is no challenge under the nos, infact I can toy with him when riding the nos...Same as when I raced the new stock 350Z Nissan..Those cars run 14.1 and 13.8 in the quarter mile according to google on average... If that is the case I should run in the low 12's maybe even high 11's but that does not seem possible from my post reads... With NOS I destroy the new 745 BMW's, can just barely edge out the new stock M3 BMW 0-60mph , toy with the stock 4.6 liter 90's mustangs, clearly beat out the stock LS1 Camaro's... Am I reading these posts right? I would think a TT 400's would run in the 11's... Am I missing something here...

According to the CLub Lexus and Lextreme forums my car should run mid to high 13's if I am lucky... I am getting to the track asap but I just don't get these times that are being turned in, they seem so slow to me.....Has anyone raced and compared their races to other cars in their Lexus's? I would like to know some results.......

 

[Peewee]

Dragging on the street and dragging on the strip are two VERY different things.

I've found I can do low 13's easy on the street, but on the strip my car has no traction and I can only just crack a 13.

Maybe on a hot day when the track it sticky it will be more comparable, but the couple of times I've been there its been spin city.

 

[jibbby]

Thanks Peewee that could definetely be one factor, but I would think there is more to it then that.... Could factory 1/4 mile times be way off on new cars as far as being rated???

Peewee 13's are good from what I am reading, you must have a very fast car...cool....

 

[fugly]

Jibbby, i think your onto something there about new car times being overrated.

 

[93VR4nPHILLY]

Gee...Perhaps I'm barking up the wrong tree, thinking about modding an SC400 in to a mid 11 sec sleeper. All that information is less than impressive, and not what I had hoped for. Does the 1UZ not take to mod's well, or what? I had been thinking about selling my VR4 and buying an SC to mod up as a DD sleeper. Nothing too radical....in the 11's is plenty good enough. I had figured on maybe building a TT set up, with a forged bottom end...now, I'm not so sure. It just doesn't seem cost effective, from what I have been gathering. I might be better served with an SC300 and a Single turbo, I guess. :feedback:

As for the HP number's on the G35 and the 350z....over rated. The G35's 280 HP rating must be at the crank, cause it's damn sure not at the wheels. I spend a considerable amount of time street racing, and I **** on those cars at will. I'm only BPU, with a 3,800 lb awd car that puts down MAYBE 320 awhp, and those G35's are no match from a dig or a roll.

They always over inflate the HP numbers on todays cars. Ford tends to actually underestimate the HP ratings on their cars, as many fords have dynoed over the stock HP ratings. I'd say that the G35 realistically has around 240-250 WHP. As for running in the 13's....NOT! MAYBE a professional driver in a controlled environment, with his own time keeper, could crack 13's....but there is little chance that the "every day Joe" is getting out of the mid to high 14's in that ride. Sorry If I kind of Hijacked this thread....leave it to a newb!

 

[jibbby]

No problem, and your right in many ways...If your looking to save money get the SC300 and turbo that....More cost effective but not more unique.....

Yeah don't worry about hijacking this thead was played out anyway....It just so happens I just smoked another 350ZX last night, I kid you not...It was lowered, fat rims and tint and it got used from a red light, it appeared to be all stock under the hood......Also about 5 minutes after that race, I had a suped up lowered Honda with that huge loud muffler...Again it was no match and I didn't even need to use the nos to work those two cars over but I did anyway, thinking one of the two cars maybe turbo'd...You just never know...Had a civic go neck and neck with my one time, so i don't underestimate a good challenger.........I always seem to get good races on Friday and Saturday nights more so then any other day or nights....I don't get it, I guess people must feel loose on Friday and Saturday nights....

 

[93VR4nPHILLY]

No problem, and your right in many ways...If your looking to save money get the SC300 and turbo that....More cost effective but not more unique..

Why do you say that? Isn't it getting tougher to find the earlier SC300's with the manual trannies? I don't need to be too unique, as I have been driving a car for the last 4 years, that is one of only 15,553 ever sold in the U.S. during it's entire 9 year production run. While not as rare as the MKIV Supra, it's still pretty rare. I'd think that owning a sleeper DD SC300 with a legit TT set up that will run in the 11's, is some what unique anyways. I know for a fact, I'd win my share of money at the drags with such a set up.

You gotta watch those honda's too...while real fast ones aren't too common on the streets, they do exist. I have seen built H22's destroy C5 vettes from a roll. I know a guy who is a master Honda tuner, who has built a B series CRX in to a legit 475 fwhp monster. With the light weight on most of those cars, it only takes 350 fwhp to smoke what many consider to be much faster cars. There is a lot to be said for being light in weight.

I do pretty good for myself on the street most of the time. I love my car to death, but there comes a point and time when you gotta realize a platforms' potential, and figure out if it's worth the cost. Being a 3,800 lb all wheel drive car, my VR4 doesn't really shine as being a good platform for a fast 1/4 mile car....at least not without spending tons of money that I will never recoupe in sale or trade. The platform just recently broke in to the 9's without juice, but that's with about 18-20k in mods. Being as the transfer cases on these are known to grenade under severe launches, and the 6G72 is known to spin bearings, it's an up hill battle.

I have really only been beaten two or three times on the street. One was a well worked 5.0 stang, who left me from a roll on I-95, like I had just tossed an anchor out of my hatch. The most recent time was a C5 vette that had a cam, heads, nitrous, and full exhaust... Supposedly a low 11 sec car without the shot. He beat me by four cars from a 20 mph roll. I also sort of lost to an 04 Svt cobra, who was talking to me at a red light, then just launched on me once the light went green. I was like "WTF" and as I began to reel him in, we saw a cop ahead....but I give it to him, as I shoulda expected it.

Since I have replaced my 60 lb 3 piece driveshaft, with a one piece carbon fiber shaft that weighs about 23 lbs, I can transfer a lot more hp to the wheels from a roll. All wheel drive cars suffer about a 30% hp loss through the drivetrain, and this mod has helped a lot. Enough so, that I was able to walk away from an 05 GTO from 70 to 145ish on I-95.. Not many all wheel drives can claim that, as those 05-06 Goats are known to scream from a roll. I'm done babbling on for now... Good luck with your car, and be safe on the streets bro!

 

[jibbby]

Hey do those carbon fiber driveshafts really make a noticeable difference? If so where do you find a maker? I hear they are bank too? Alluminum driveshafts are somewhat pricey.... That could be a mod I would consider if it made a difference....

I have lost a few races over this past year....Here it goes - Dodge Viper spanked me, Stock Vette edged me, CBR1000 motorcycle destroyed me, M6 BMW pulled away, oh I got murdered by a suped up mercedes that was not even a AMG, that Merc car was lowered and an absolutely rocket. my mouth dropped... These races were all pre header install...The only car I may have challenged better today would be the stock new standard Vette...I would still get housed by all the others...Oh I also lost to a Saleen Mustang but it was close...


So you are sporting the VR4 Mits. twin turbo? Your car must have a few mods if your taking out the cars you mentioned... I use to own 300ZX twin and I remember those Mits Twin and Dodge stealth twin were all close.... I remember the ecu's being really restrictive on the VR4's.. Anyway, sounds like you have a fast car....

 

[93VR4nPHILLY]

For an AWD car, the CFDS makes a HUGE difference. It's one of the better mod's to get some of the lost hp back from the drivetrain, and It's value is most noticable from a roll. They are a bit pricey though, and can range from $1,100 to $1,400 depending on model and application. For a RWD platform, I don't know if it's worth the money honestly. You would shave weight off the car, but I don;t know how much actual performance you would gain, if any. RWD cars do not suffer the drivetrain loss that us AWD guys have, and I might be a bit leary of a CFDS once you approach 600 whp.

While touted to be incredibly strong fiber from a torque standpoint, CF actually damages easily upon rotational contact with any hard surface. If you ever have one rub the under carriage or have a u-joint fail, the shaft will splinter and probably be trash. (sometimes they can be sent back out and rebuilt, depending on the nature of the damage) The two prominent CFDS makers that I am aware of are PST and ACPT, which is the one I have.

Yes...I have the VR4, which as you know, is the TT model 3000GT, as opposed to the countless number of base model 3000GT's we all see on the streets. I still have my 4 wheel steering intact, and my active aero, etc....lots of weight on that car.
I guess by some standards it's considered a fast car in stock form. Mitsu claimed 300hp on 91-93 models, and 320 hp on the 94-99 models, but those number's are more at the crank, then at the wheels. My 93 was made to boost the extra few psi like the 94+ models, by simply removing a restrictor nipple in the wastegate solenoid. In stock form, with a professional driver, the magazines ran mid 13's in the quarter mile. In stock form, it has gone through the top speed radar traps anywhere from 159 mph to 164 mph.

I'm just used to driving it, so I guess it doesn't seem that fast to me anymore. I run a Blitz DSBC set anywhere from 12-14 psi daily. I have some modest modification done, but I have yet to touch the fuel system or upgrade from the stock 9B TD04 turbos. I haven't really killed anything that's super impressive in it, IMHO. I have a whole lot of after market parts laying here, that I have yet to install. I have a set of custom -6AN billet fuel rails, an SX fuel filter, an aeromotive FPR, an SAFC-II, a Supra fuel pump, etc etc.

I have been pretty busy with work, and I'm not sure I want to continue to mod the car....so the parts just keep piling up in my basement...lol Right now, all I have: CFDS, 3" IPS downpipe and full 3" IPS single exhaust with test pipe, Lightened billet crank pulley, K&N FIPK, DNP Y-pipe, Accel 8mm wires, Copper NGK plugs, EGR block off, Vac reduction, fuel pump hotwire, RFL BOV, Blitz DSBC, Keith Black pro N1 racing wheels,(pretty light) Goodridge SS brake lines, rotors, etc etc..

It's not that fast a car as of now, IMO. I could maybe run a high 12 or low 13 if I get a decent launch and it's not too humid out. Part of what helps me is the gearing though. The 5 spd in these cars have pretty tall gearing. I'm still in 3rd and climbing, once I hit the trap in the 1/4. I can generally hit 120 mph before I have to shift in to 4th gear. But like you, I also have some torque...Supposedly 310ft lbs of it @4000rpm, bone stock. It might also help that I'm a rather good driver...he he. I have taken advantage of plenty, who couldn't drive their car for ****...It's "run what ya brung", so eff em! wned:

 

[jibbby]

Yeah, I hear you....Those 3000gt, Dodge stealth twins, 300ZX twins all put out around 300hp at the crank at stock new...Those turbo's are trouble though, if you constantly work those cars hard losing boost is common and the repair costs are not cheap...If you ask me I would say dump the car while it still runs good...Those cars have pep once the twin turbo's kick, but your either frying your clutch from a launch or trying to play catch up racing in those cars..Lowend power is very poor and that is why they are not that fun to drive......Off the line launches with those cars are suspect by todays standards...

With the Lexus V8 motors and a good stall rate torque converter the throttle response is absolutely outstanding, lowend torque is really fun...However, getting big power out of the SC4's is challenging from stock......With the SC300's you probably will never experience that lowend torque like in the V8's and yeah the 6 banger SC3's cars will be fast if you turbo them, swap in Supra motors, etc., But that lowend torque is really what makes a car fun to drive in my opinion and that will most likely be missed......With my SC400 I just tap the gas and the car launches...Ease into the gas pedal and it drives like stock.... See where I am getting at?

Just my opinion no offense to all six banger owners out their......I currently have a landcruiser with a 4.3L six banger in it that is AWD......Actually that has some lowend grunt but that is a big 4.3liter 24 valve motor...

Sounds like the carbon fiber driveshafts are delicate like the alluminum driveshafts...Excessive wheel hop can tweak out an alluminum driveshaft fairly easily so I would guess the Carbon Fibers are not any different.... I guess I will be sticking with the steel driveshaft for now.....

 

[stevechumo]

.....You gotta watch those honda's too...while real fast ones aren't too common on the streets, they do exist. I have seen built H22's destroy C5 vettes from a roll. I know a guy who is a master Honda tuner, who has built a B series CRX in to a legit 475 fwhp monster. With the light weight on most of those cars, it only takes 350 fwhp to smoke what many consider to be much faster cars. There is a lot to be said for being light in weight....

I agree with you that some Honda/Acura are fast. I, myself was a Honda builder and I know that as a fact. However, there're not many really fast Honda/Acura on the streets. Years ago, I've personally built an Acura Integra (turbo & engine work) with 305 whp. It's way much faster than my stock SC400. I've seen a monsterous Civic with near 500 whp. And the last Honda that I built (turbo only, no engine work) was an Accord 4 banger. After I bought this SC400, I was a little disappointed because it's slower than my previous Accord. But, a stock SC400 is only temporary so I'll see if I can add another 150 hp by turbocharging it. I always like the Mitsubishi VR4 in the later years. It's hot.

 

[jibbby]

Hey Steve, I see alot of fast Honda's and Acura's in the East LA areas...However, I have never lost a race to one under full nos, but have been pressed a few times...I was really pressed one time especially by an older Turbo'd Honda Civic hatchback....

They are light and fast when turbo'd, and I have seen those front wheels break loose next to me once the turbo kicks, as you well know...

 

[rdm20fan]

Hey Jibby, and Steve.
I took my Sc400 to the track last tuesday. Chris and I finally got some time to spend on her. I uped the boost to 20psi, and the car ran a 126.7 MPH trap speed. (She was flying)
I need to work on the cars ET. she ran a 12.59 @ 123 - 13.0 @ 126
I need suspension help.
My car is lowered, and I really don't want to put it back to stock ride height.
How do I get ride of the wheel hop, and what sounds like the center behring hoping/bouncing at launch?
You guys have any sugestions?

 

[stevechumo]

I don't think Jibby has the SC or looking up on here anymore. Your car is fast, but it sounds like you lost traction with that much boost. The only way to eliminate wheel hop is to completely change all rear bushings to polyurethane. That will include rear subframe, all rear arms, LSD, sway bar. Next is to fabricate an upper strut bar. I'm sure doing the above will help keeping the rear straight.