hi guys. i have an early thick rod engine with a 4 speed auto box. it does not shift to 4th or, appears not to. i cant feel or here the third gear change and it revs high in third. 50 miles an hour is about 2800rpm. if i came across a 350 five speed, would it fit to my engine? and would i need any mods to do so?
30 40LE
- Thread starter super stu
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
super_red_sc
Red Resto
- Messages
- 7
- Location
- AZ
I believe there are solenoids that control shifting of that trans via the ecu. Check the Lexus Service manual. You can get an electronic copy for like $20. A site in UK sells them.
Perform a manual shift test.
Unplug the valve body connector from the rear of the gearbox and drive it. Move the gear shifter manually and you should have the following gears.
If this is what you get, the issue is likely electronic rather than hydraulic or mechanical.
Hydraulic and manual faults will potentially require a rebuild, but there are many electronic tests you can perform.
First, check your OD switch is not shorted to ground. Remove the ECU connector and check for continuity to ground on the OD pin. Operate the switch and ensure the value changes from open to closed circuit.
Next, you have 2 solenoids that control the shifting for each gear - S1 and S2.
Their logic is as follows.
Testing the solenoids
The solenoids have a resistance between 10-16 ohms so you can unplug the ECU connector and test the resistance to ground on both S1 and S1 terminals.
Have someone apply 12v to either S1 or S2 terminals while you're under the oil pan and you should be able to hear them click.
Swapping in a 350 5 speed requires a decent chunk of cash and of modifications to support it.
Unplug the valve body connector from the rear of the gearbox and drive it. Move the gear shifter manually and you should have the following gears.
| Shifter Position | Gear Selected |
| DRIVE | 4th |
| 2ND | 3rd |
| LOW | 1st |
If this is what you get, the issue is likely electronic rather than hydraulic or mechanical.
Hydraulic and manual faults will potentially require a rebuild, but there are many electronic tests you can perform.
First, check your OD switch is not shorted to ground. Remove the ECU connector and check for continuity to ground on the OD pin. Operate the switch and ensure the value changes from open to closed circuit.
Next, you have 2 solenoids that control the shifting for each gear - S1 and S2.
Their logic is as follows.
| S1 State | S2 State | |
| 1st Gear | ON | OFF |
| 2nd Gear | ON | ON |
| 3rd Gear | OFF | ON |
| 4th Gear | OFF | OFF |
Testing the solenoids
The solenoids have a resistance between 10-16 ohms so you can unplug the ECU connector and test the resistance to ground on both S1 and S1 terminals.
Have someone apply 12v to either S1 or S2 terminals while you're under the oil pan and you should be able to hear them click.
Swapping in a 350 5 speed requires a decent chunk of cash and of modifications to support it.
