2uzfe crank

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

thalj

New Member
Is it true 2uzfe crank is made from cast iron also and cant handle more than 1000hp..


because im fitting it on a 4x4 with twin turbos t70... got my argo rods set and ross pistons with heads and valves job..

its will be installed in a tundra


ive seen the aerospace guy which makes 1200 hp on a 4.0 crank but its a different case when its on a 4x4 (more wieght) and 2nd im building a street truck
 

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We had this discussion awhile back.

In their technical manuals, Toyota/Lexus state that their 1UZ and 3UZ cranks are "forged steel", however for the 2UZ crank they simply state that it's "steel".

So no, the 2UZ is not a cast iron crank, it's a steel crank, however Toyota do not say that it's a forged steel crank.
 
If someone has a good picture of the crank showing the parting lines we can make the determination.

Cast cranks have a narrow parting line that shows each half of the mold from which it is cast.

Forged cranks have wide parting lines created as the forging "hammers" the metal into shape and makes the parting line noticeably wide.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0308_crankshafts_how_to/index1.html
116_0308_crank04_z.jpg


The finish is also noticeable and you can also "ring" a forging. See above link.

Keep in mind that forging is just one of many things that determine a cranks strength, material and design are also key as is the actual forging process used.

Other points: the 2uz crank has only 1.5mm more stroke than the 1uz and the early 1uz is a stronger part than the later 1uz and 3uz.
 
Good link John, years ago I'd heard about guys ringing a crank before they bought it to make sure it was forged, but never actually saw anyone do it.

Maybe someone who has their 2UZ open can help clarify this. It would be interesting to know if Toyota felt the 2UZ didn't need a forged crank. As we (and especially Wayne Ryther) already know, it apparently got the weakest rods in the family.

Edit: was just looking at pics of Wayne's blown 2UZ, but I can't tell much. Maybe someone with better eyes can: http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30837&postcount=16
 
I can upload some 2uzfe pictures..... Just finished my 2uzfe VVTi. I think the block will split before the crank.
 
I have my other 2uz completely ripped apart with my "steel" crank sitting on a bench. Wish I was back in Colorado for the summer as I don't have it in front of me!

I would like to know... im building a hybrid 2uz as I speak.
 
Sean, have somebody @ home hang it from a beam and rap it with a hammer to see if it rings.

Curious minds want to know!
 
Have you thought of nitriding the crank ??
 

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I dont have my out-of-engine crank with me. It's in another state. I do have a fresh unopened 2uz but it too wont be seeing day because my engine builder is doing all the work.

-XR8tt- Is nitriding the crank have something to do with tempering the steel? I doubt I will reach the 2uz crank's threshold with this daily, 1uz rods should take car of most of my worries :)


7psi procharger, 1uz rods/heads, ARP's all over and new rings/bearings. All i really need
 
1UZ rods won't be stronger than any Toyota crank..
Most performance cranks go through a similar process..
1000 or so h.p was mentioned above. I would assume after market rods ??
Would be used.. It's not like an aftermarket crank can be used.. [Not Chevy, Ford or Honda]..
Abstract:
Nitriding is a surface-hardening heat treatment that introduces nitrogen into the surface of steel at a temperature range (500 to 550°C or 930 to 1020°F), while it is in the ferrite condition. Thus, nitriding is similar to carburizing in that surface composition is altered, but different in that nitrogen is added into ferrite instead of austenite.
Because nitriding does not involve heating into the austenite phase field and a subsequent quench to form martensite, nitriding can be accomplished with a minimum of distortion and with excellent dimensional control.

Nitriding is a surface-hardening heat treatment that introduces nitrogen into the surface of steel at a temperature range (500 to 550°C, or 930 to 1020°F), while it is in the ferrite condition. Thus, nitriding is similar to carburizing in that surface composition is altered, but different in that nitrogen is added into ferrite instead of austenite. Because nitriding does not involve heating into the austenite phase field and a subsequent quench to form martensite, nitriding can be accomplished with a minimum of distortion and with excellent dimensional control.
The mechanism of nitriding is generally known, but the specific reactions that occur in different steels and with different nitriding media are not always known. Nitrogen has partial solubility in iron. It can form a solid solution with ferrite at nitrogen contents up to about 6%. At about 6% N, a compound called gamma prime (γ’), with a composition of Fe4N is formed.
At nitrogen contents greater than 8%, the equilibrium reaction product is ε compound, Fe3N. Nitrided cases are stratified. The outermost surface can be all γ’ and if this is the case, it is referred to as the white layer. Such a surface layer is undesirable: it is very hard profiles but is so brittle that it may spall in use. Usually it is removed; special nitriding processes are used to reduce this layer or make it less brittle. The ε zone of the case is hardened by the formation of the Fe3N compound, and below this layer there is some solid solution strengthening from the nitrogen in solid solution.
Principal reasons for nitriding are:
  • To obtain high surface hardness
  • To increase wear resistance
  • To improve fatigue life
  • To improve corrosion resistance (except for stainless steels)
  • To obtain a surface that is resistant to the softening effect of heat at temperatures up to the nitriding temperature...
 


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