1uz very rich.. and how to get diagnostic codes using a test lamp

[klr16v]

Hi all im dan from sydney. im new to lextreme.

Ive got a 1uz hilux that ive had for 2years now. its been all good up until now.




Problems:
-on start up it runs VERY rich. black smoke comes out the exhaust, leaves sooty/black residue on the ground. petrol smell in the air.

-while its warming up, engine is very rough, idles very low too. Give it some throttle and it sounds like its sucking loads of air thru the intake and stalls.

-once its warm it runs ok, however it seems to be fuel cutting while driving under load. usually at the same rpm (i dont have a tacho connected but it feels like 4000-5000 rpm. When it happens the trucks rear wheels pretty much lock up from the compression. (is this a fuel cut????)

-it also stalls when slowing down coming to a stop.





What ive done:
-fitted 2x brand new coils
-checked and cleaned Idle Control Valve
-cleaned the Crank Angle Sensor
-checked for vacuum leaks
-checked ecu for corrosion
-checked ignition leads

ALSO:
id like to know how to get diagnostic codes from my engine. i dont have the plug that is normally inside the cabin in a soarer. Can i flash out codes using a 12v test lamp from the diagnostic plug on the engine.


Thanks in advance for any help. much appreciated

 

[J-min]

What year car is this? There are 2 diagnostic ports. Theres the big round one by the kick pannle in your cabin and theres another one ontop of the motor, on the drivers side of the intake plenum. Its a smaller rectangular box with a cap on it- says diagnostic. You can make a jumper and put it in the correct terminals (te1 to t1), your check engine light in your gauge cluster will flash the appropriate number of times to tell you what code is being displayed.


Theres a DIY here (assuming you have a gen1/2 1uz and not some other motor or VVTI motor..)
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

And a video of what im talking about-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uj-rBLvZ_bQ



Your issue sounds similar to my issue of a dead air intake temp sensor and dead maf.

 

[spf_lexus]

If it only occurs when cold you may have a stuck open injector as well. Gradual leak down over night can cause a super rich cold start scenario. You can monitor fuel pressure and monitor the leak down via mechanical gauge. If more than roughly 20psi drops within 30 min (or more than 3psi over 60 seconds), suspect injectors. You can inspect the cylinders for raw fuel after to ID the culprit. When I worked for ford, no more than 3psi should leak within 60sec.

If fuel pressure is stable, a MAF fault can also cause an intermittant issue (feels like fuel cut). If it hasnt been cleaned recently, recommend cleaning it with CRC MAF cleaner (or equivelant) and reevaluate.

Lastly, a biased ECT sensor can cause a rich condition. If the ECU reads false cold coolant temps, fuel dump will occur to speed warm up. You could compare resistance to a like sensor if necessary.