1UZ into falcon? has BEEN DONE all updates here

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
G'day again,
did a little bit more today, decided i'd get it going again first and run it down the Qtr mile, and have it in a running drivable state in case i decide to sell without doing a reshell, SO....
I fitted an XG 3.27 diff with 28 spline axels open centre. had to change nuts at the T piece in the brake line as the later models use metric nuts, the hand brake cable will need a little modification, taking the tailshaft bits down tomorrow hopefully to get another custom one made up. then i can get the exhaust fixed,
resecure the fuel, LPgas and brake lines and it should be as good as it was exept for the damage to the floor.
pics below are of back half of tailshaft, hole in the floor and view from rear.

starting to wonder how much i like Ford Falcons lately, so i'm a little uncertain of the LEXUS falcon futre, but at least i can say i owned one and it was fun at times, not fun when tailshaft goes bang though
 
Hey Dean,
Good to hear your getting the ute back on the road. I know its hard to find enthusiasm this time of year, but bit by bit you will get it back going again. Did you ever work out what actually happend, Did the tail shaft let go or the diff lock up???? I thought the diffs were fairly reliable. Was yours a 25 spliner that broke? Keep us updated on your progress and hope all goes well.
I have not had much of a chance to do much to mine as a close mate has borrowed it untill his work ute is back on the road (long story), But the next thing is an engineers report so I can drive it with confidence of not getting pulled over and fined.
See ya Kris.
 
krayn said:
Hey Dean,
Did you ever work out what actually happend, Did the tail shaft let go or the diff lock up???? I thought the diffs were fairly reliable. Was yours a 25 spliner that broke? .
See ya Kris.
i spoke to my tailshaft bloke and he says that my tailshaft being a mile long and not big in diameter (3")could have got what he calls "whip" where the shaft gets a bit of a bow happening, which could explain my failure as i was on a slightly bumpy road when mine let go
mine was a 25 spline but i reckon other than the axel tubes turning in the housing it will still be OK?
the brakes locked up cos the tailshaft swept the handbrake cable and pulled harder than anyone else ever would so one of them stayed locked up.,

a 3 1/2" tailshaft was recommended, gunna cost me prob $500 to patch this ute up with one off costom bits which i'm not keen on spending on it, as if i put the stuff into my other car it will run different diff yoke and gearbox yoke and tailshaft length and exhaust will be done differently also.....

might leave it up on blocks for a while and dicide a little more

i had great difficulty removing the slip yoke from the auto for some reason ended up towing it out with another car, maybe the bush in the extension housing got damaged with all that crashing about?

Dean
 
Gday again,
weather has been ok lately, and since it hasn't cost anything i removed the squashed bit of exhauast, originally 2.5" its now flat.
i thought i'd start it up unbolted at the cat, and possibly video the sound if i could borrow a camera. but i was unimpressed with the sound.....
it wasn't loud really and didn't have as good a note as with the muffler which is a non straight though design(gas goes in an S through muffler)
need to now investigate the reason why the tailshaft yoke is TOO tight to slip back into the back of the auto(i had to tow it out)
will do some searching regarding extension housing bush etc as the tailshaft bloke said something about this..
anyone got any suggestions?
bye for now

P.S polished the sedan in case i go ahead with the reshell looks much better now, pic of my back yard with Too many cars
 
another nice day here, thought i'd start up the beast again, i was always a little curious of why the gearbox to diff angle had changed, i assumed it was a broken engine mount.

after starting it up and giving it a bit of a rev, i noticed a vibration again, (getting sick of vibrations) turned it off, and to my suprise(well not really,nothing much suprises me anymore)
the BELL HOUSING is broken also. heres some pics
 
Dean,

A whipping tailshaft tends to do that to bellhousings.

I rememer doing that to a Triumph Herald in the late 60's. It had all of 35HP so power isn't the problem the force of the rotating does it.
 
update 27/10(october)/05

Hi again,
the weather is getting good now so i am going to start again with this reshell VERY soon, been looking at an AU falcon radiator as i already have twin thermo fans and the outlets and size look like a good fit in my application, just trying to source a radiator for trial fit.(AU radiator doesnt fit, lower hose too low, EF radiator and fans should work perfect, but i may need to relocate the battery as EF fans are a lot wider) . bought my 5 speed supra box and just a matter of time till i buy the Bellhousing an flywheel kit.
also got an EA falcon manual gearbox cross member as i suspect i might end up having the mount in a different place from auto to manual, this has a bend that makes about 2 inches difference either way so i should have all the tricky bits sorted when it comes to doing the swap.
i have been doing lots of research, planning and collecting parts like a squirrel, so it should come together quickly.
still havent decided wether to register it first or not, this will take a bit of time too, and i cant secide as yet when to allocate this part of my time,
in this case, money is not the issue, but the time is, i think i only need about $3000 but time will tell the story. i am seriously considering my 1970 Valiant coupe, to fund this project(i dont really have to sell it), as i dont think i'll get time for that for another 12 months.
 
Dean
Great to hear your doing the reshell. Sounds like your doing your home work on what will make the coversion easyer. In reguards to the rego, an engineers report is not cheap, I have not done it yet but just the engineers cost was over $700, but if you want it legal there is no other way. Good luck, Kris
 
Engineer

I wish I'd known about your engineer. The one I was sent to kept my Cortina for 2 days, went over it with a magnifying glass and charged me $1650. To think that it passed except for a few cosmetic things says a lot for the car. Kevin
 
WOW, found a bit of motorvation!
heres a pic of the removed tranny, probably not much use anymore, but will keep it till the car is on the road incase i need something from it???
DSCF1461.jpg

the starter gear is a bit chewed up, probably why it sometimes did not want to stop cranking, if the car didnt start(it always did) it would have cranked for a long time by itself once engaged. i'm probably just gunna clean it up with the dremel tool and see how it goes?
DSCF1466.jpg

heres a pic from the back of the motor, shows exhaust manifold clearance with crown manifolds, wondering if i can just CHOP the trans wiring loom? i really cant be bothered sorting though undoing the neat loom already on the motor, i can get speed signal straight off the sender unit, any comments or questions please dont hesitate asking.
DSCF1465.jpg


already have engine mounts loose, starting to undo the rest of the wiring, next thing i think i have to remove the dash to get at the rest of computer loom, then its on hold while i register the other car and buy manual conversion. hoping 10 weeks form now(My Birthday) i will be driving it. Chrismas and new years holidays will give me some time, but may also stuff me up due to places being closed. see how i go, i will updade this thread whenever i do something that looks or sounds intersting, lots of pics is the plan.
thanks Dean
 
keep at it dude.

it's always a heartbreaker when something major goes wrong, but think how fun it's going to be when it's finished.

at least you have the engine side of the bellhousing intact - you can use that to machine and weld to a supra bellhousing rear and have a manual conversion done a bit easier.
 
pro240c said:
at least you have the engine side of the bellhousing intact - you can use that to machine and weld to a supra bellhousing rear and have a manual conversion done a bit easier.
nah, i will be buying a CRS bell housing CBF mucking around with welding bits like that, if there was no other option that would be a different story.
 
MOTOR ready to lift out , computer wiring on going

heres todays effort, undid all wires and hoses connected to the car from the motor(will lift it and fit it pretty much in this state)

Zenginereadytocomeout.jpg


the pic below shows computers with some wiring undone, wow I can imagine how people feel when they start pulling down a crown half cut

zcomputerSwiringstillhasmorework.jpg


wont be long before i have to stop cos i want to register the receiving car before fitting the motor, so far there is only one wire i'm not 100% sure where it comes from, but i cant check it by colour code as it most likely has been chopped and Joined by the previous owner that fitted it, got a feeling it has something to do with air con input? find out soon enough i spose.
 
Getting Serious Now!!

well,
i am now waiting about a week to road worthy and register My Red Falcon, hope that goes well.
up till now i have removed the ECU and ECT from inside the broken car, and motor is ready to lift out cant do any more here.

bought an exellent second hand (1995)EF Falcon radiator and twin thermo fan set from the local wrecker about $200 all up, also got the header tank but i'm not sure if it will fit? this radiator will fit with some minor mods.

Ordered From Bullet http://www.bulletcars.com/ a full manual Conversion, turns out they actually use the CRS bell housing, all other parts are their design. I spoke to Greg who was Very Knowledgable on their products and and talked about future upgrades including cams and superchargers etc. cost is a bit more expensive but its the sort of thing i dont want to have problems with and they sell the same kit in cars costing over $100k.
spoke about exhuast designs etc
but unfortunately there might be upto a 3 week wait for this kit due to a back log over Xmas etc.

as soon as i register My red car, it will have the motor, trans, diff and fuel tank removed along with exhaust system. the dash will come out so i can fit my Manual pedal assy and replace the heater core and air con core(cheating a bit using air con core for heater so i dont have to remove dash twice)

then comes the fun Part, firstly i will get the radiator Mounted properly, i need to make a bit of clearance with a BIG hammer to the front of the left shocker tower as its very close to the air con pump,
once thats done, i have promised my self to re Paint the Engine Bay, if weather is permitting 2pac will be used, otherwise it will be done in acrylic Monza Red same as exterior.


things i still need are a lower radiator hose for a CROWN, a slip yoke for the W57 box, and Most probably a different gear shift adapter to be further rearward, this is only part of the soon to be growing list.

IT WILL BE WORTH IT!!

thanks for looking
Dean
 
Im helpn a mate with 1uz in xf ute at the mo, in between doin another hilux, your thread has been quite helpful, one question but, which speed sensor did u use to hook to xf speedo? the small one bolted to ext housing or the big one on the cable type output? also what wire colours went to what, if its not too much too ask
 
hi-lex said:
Im helpn a mate with 1uz in xf ute at the mo, in between doin another hilux, your thread has been quite helpful, one question but, which speed sensor did u use to hook to xf speedo? the small one bolted to ext housing or the big one on the cable type output? also what wire colours went to what, if its not too much too ask
What stage is it upto, you can post in this thread if you like do you have any pics what engine/trans/ecu are you using? its Not the twin turbo one thats just had the ARP kit through it?

i can answer half the question at the moment heres a pic of what i was Using,
got stuff in boxes every where now, but Very soon will start going Back together, i didnt fit this sensor a speedo Joint that calibrated the tacho and fuel sender. speaking of which, for an XF ute I have for sale when i get around to removing them, an XG fuel tank with in tank pump (sender resistor changed to "better" suit XF still not perfect) and an S pack cluster with 4 cyl tacho to suit 1UZ
speedosender.jpg
 
it aint nuthin flash, its the spare crown cut I had and posted pics with a diff welded to the rear and a short tailshaft(read: burnout death machine from hell!!) it has 190k on the clock but is the sweetest quietest 1uz ive had so far, I swapped it for panel/paint on the lux, we usin front sump (thanks edma61) Im jus doin wiring, thinkin of usin 20 pulse sender and jaycar kit to cal back down to 4 or maybe ask sideshow for one of his, xf has 3.5 diff so should go ok , cant wait to test drive, will take pics an start a thread
 
hi-lex said:
it aint nuthin flash, its the spare crown cut I had and posted pics with a diff welded to the rear and a short tailshaft(read: burnout death machine from hell!!) it has 190k on the clock but is the sweetest quietest 1uz ive had so far, I swapped it for panel/paint on the lux, we usin front sump (thanks edma61) Im jus doin wiring, thinkin of usin 20 pulse sender and jaycar kit to cal back down to 4 or maybe ask sideshow for one of his, xf has 3.5 diff so should go ok , cant wait to test drive, will take pics an start a thread
Yeah that half cut was cool, I have a Very solid rear cross member i probably wont use for crown auto, too.
before you fit the motor it would pay to give the LHF shocker tower a Big gentle Massage for a bit more room, i'll take a pic of where soon(rear of air con pump area)
3.5 diff will go good, it wont wheelspin if LSD 80kmh in 1st 140in 2nd with the auto.
if you are column auto, i'll do a change over on the linkage that goes to the auto, it has has a cut and shut, i am refitting the 6cyl ford as a bush hack i will have to buy one soon.
it should end up in the same position as mine in the bay, Cos the rear of the sump is close to the cross member at its rear most position, and the heater hoses are accessable still(not usually with a 351 conversion)
looking forward to it,
PS i looked at a LS400 and an SC400 lower hose and it looks similar to crown, if thats the case i think i can use 2 lower LS400 hoses in My cr for a factory look, top and bottom will use lower LS400, will Verify this SOON
Dean
 


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