1UZ into E36

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
With a basic tune, rich mixtures and very conservative timing, it feels very strong.

Datalog of today's testing shows boost topping out at 6psi (gate spring).
The highest TPS was 45%.

I can't wait to see what 100% throttle and 14psi feels like!
Oh, the joys of an engine conversion.
Its the hundreds of tiny jobs (that nobody sees) that need to be done otherwise the whole thing falls apart in a screaming mess.

Like today... all of it.
When the shifter was installed months ago, it encroached on the area where the climate control ECU lives. It was decided that it would be moved to behind the glovebox, but I've been putting it off for way too long.
  • 60 x pieces of wire to be cut.
  • 120 x pieces of heat shrink to be cut.
  • Put 2 pieces of heat shrink on each wire.
  • Barrel crimp each end of the wire
  • Cut each harness wire (staggered) and crimp each end. (that's 240 crimps in total)
  • Heat shrink each end.
  • Tape it all up.
  • Zip tie the Climate Control ECU into its new home.
  • Fasten the harness
No room for error or the system malfunctions or goes up in smoke.
Its satisfying to trim that final zip tie, but nobody else really cares - all they want to see is the engine and turbo.
  • Like
Reactions: JZH
Amongst many other small (but necessary) jobs, the rocker covers came off in prep for the breather system mods. The baffle plate "rivets" are removed easily with a drill and die grinder. Had the covers and baffles soaking in an alkaline degreaser for a few hours and all the oil residue came off easily. The alloy and baffles are stained but they are very clean.

Using Speedflow M20 x AN10 adapters for the breather pipes seemed to be the easiest route. I could not be arsed getting fittings welded on. If they break, i might, but they shouldn't. The breather pipe and PCV holes are around 18mm in diameter so it only took a small amount of massaging with the dremel to start the M20 tap. Both have aluminium washers and thread sealant.

Drilling out the rocker covers to allow the baffles to be bolted back on was interesting... the RH cover has a flat top so it sits nicely on the drill bench - the LH cover not so much due to the PCV and oil cap castings. I needed to put blocks under it and hold it down firm to stop it moving around.

New holes (x23) tapped for the baffle plates then reassembled with new m5 allens. Loctite is an absolute must for these bolts. You don't want them coming loose!



I did a similar thing with the baffles around 15 years ago with my supercharged engine. I hope the bolts are holding on for the new owner.
Hi Patrick,

Did you use aluminium crush washers on those fittings, or Dowty seals? They're not under much pressure, but I would normally try to seal the surfaces as well as the threads.


I forgot to note, aluminium thickness next to the spark plug tubes is only about 8-10mm and I don't have bottoming taps - so I drilled right through, and the bolts have ultra-grey sealant on them to ensure nothing leaks out + the bolt stays put. All the other bolts have Toyota thread locker.

@JHZ I used aluminium crush washers under the AN fittings, plus I used an anaerobic PTFE sealant (Aeroflow) on the threads. Its oil/fuel/waterproof and is rated to much higher temps than the engine will reach. I'm sure it wont leak!
  • Like
Reactions: JZH