1UZ into E36

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

P Bateman

New Member
Messages
18
Lots has been happening since the last update.
  • Tailshaft has been built
  • A340 auto now works with the factory BMW shifter
  • Manifolds have been constructed
  • Turbocharger has been purchased (GT3582R)
More to come...
 

Lextreme

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
429
Lots has been happening since the last update.
  • Tailshaft has been built
  • A340 auto now works with the factory BMW shifter
  • Manifolds have been constructed
  • Turbocharger has been purchased (GT3582R)
More to come...
Interested in seeing pics if you have them! Thx for taking the time to keep us posted.
 

P Bateman

New Member
Messages
18
I do.

Major surgery was carried out on the hydraulic fan pump to provide some clearance, along with the bracket on the outer edge of the water pump and the AC mount casting on the engine block. And no, the cooling system will not leak.

aIMG_1227.jpg

All to make way for the turbo. Its an Aeroflow 5455, and is a 650hp bolt-on upgrade for the Ford Barra 4.0 turbo (GT3482R). Billet compressor, Inconel turbine, ceramic ball bearing core. Should do the trick.

aIMG_1228.jpg
 

P Bateman

New Member
Messages
18
Here is the final manifold design. Space was fairly tight, especially on the R/H side. The welds on that one are not my finest, but it doesn't leak. I am not showing actual photos due to my awful welds.

manifolds.png
 
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P Bateman

New Member
Messages
18
The gearshifter was a massive headache and, while it works perfectly, I'm disappointed that it only happened by blind luck rather than engineering skill.

The BMW shifter runs a flexible cable above the fulcrum point, where the Soarer shifter runs a control rod below the fulcrum point. There is a large difference in gate positions (PNRD21) between the two vehicles.

I cut the lower portion of the Soarer shifter and fixed it to the upper part of the Beemer shifter, using a shaft through the centre of both then cross drilled and fixed them in place with an roll pin.

shifter.png

I measured countless times over a few days and completely messed up the positioning, so I just went with the best guess. Turned out perfect and all the Beemer gates line up with the A340 selector positions.
 

Daniel23

New Member
Messages
1
Hallo patrick
How did you do the wiring can you maybe help me whith the wiring of my 1uz swap in e36?

Daniel
 

P Bateman

New Member
Messages
18
First of all, I recommend you download this file and read it back to front.
https://f01.justanswer.com/RbZmAlHy/This+is+how+you+wire+up+a+1UZFE+Engine.pdf

Next, download this file and be sure your model of E36 is included



The BMW X20 Plug has many pin configurations based on your build date and original engine, but they all basically have the same wires in them. The wiring colours will give it away.

The input wiring into the X20 from your 1UZ harness are:
  • Tacho signal - black
  • Coolant temp sender - brown/violet & brown/yellow
  • (you'll need to fit the OE BMW sender as the gauge is calibrated to it)
  • Oil pressure switch - brown/green
  • Check engine light - grey
  • Fuel pump relay trigger - brown/green
  • Alternator light - blue
  • Reverse light signal - blue/yellow
The output wiring from the X20 into your 1UZ harness are:
  • Ignition power - thick green
  • Starter - black/yellow
Note that these are the X20 wiring colours I used. Yours may be different so please check before you go cutting/soldering.

Main Relay
- Pin 30 - I used a standalone constant 12v+ cable across from the jump post.
ECU Batt input is crimped into this wire.
- Pin 87 - Output power to the igniters, injectors, coils, O2 sensor heaters, purge vsv, and anything else powered by the MREL
Each output was fused individually so that one short doesn't take out the whole circuit.
- Pin 85 - MREL output from the ECU
- Pin 86 - ground
 
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Steen

New Member
Messages
1
Having never removed an engine from a BMW before, you can imagine my delight when I found the entire front end can be easily removed and it has made this job so much easier! With the 1UZ and auto trans sitting in place on some little blocks of wood, I can begin measuring up the engine mounts, sump, tailshaft and gearbox crossmember.

View attachment 14007

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View attachment 14011

After a day of fettling I have come to many conclusions:
  • The original (rear) sump can be used with an adapter plate
  • The original E36 engine mounts will be retained
  • The original Soarer trans mount will be retained
  • The E36 tailshaft can be cut and shut with Soarer flange
  • Neither the Soarer or LS400 exhaust manifolds will fit unless they are butchered - so manifolds will need to be made
  • Wiring is going to be the easiest part of the conversion. BMWs are great in this respect
  • Fuel lines are on the correct side of the motor and should adapt easily
  • Power steering hoses will only require 2 short lines to be custom made by a hose specialist
  • Coolant hoses TBA
  • Vacuum hoses TBA
  • Aircon will not be retained and I need to leave the area free just in case forced induction happens
Hi, Thankyou for your post, it is by far the most informative I’ve found. I’m doing the same build with rear sump soarer 1UZ. I’m going to do the sump adapter plate myself. Do you know anyone that has the custom headers?
 
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