1UZ into a Commodore

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
luke454 said:
*How did you go with the wiring? Did you ditch the old harness/fuse box etc? Also how does the shifter/selector line up on the inside? Any significant interior mods?

Used the original wiring in the fuse box, just find the wire that goes to the fuel pump relay from the original ECU and use that.

Iam using a B&M quicksilver shifter, used the original parts that were attached to a TH400 and made a few mods.

luke454 said:
*Fuel pump, whats the plan here, stock ok?

Used a standard VL pump which is the same as the VN one, it is fine for up to about 400 flywheel Hp.

luke454 said:
*Power steering and A/C lines, I'm guessing I will have to rip up some custom suckers?

Power steering lines were made up by Enzed, cost $80. I just supplied them with some VL lines, the short power steer lines that were attached to the pump (i bought just an engine not a front cut so they were cut) and told them the length i wanted between them and it work's perfectly. Make sure u use the flexible metal pipe inside the rubber section of the power steering hoses as it stops the dreaded power steering moan, cut a line in half and u will see what's inside.

A/C has not been done yet but only needs hoses to be made.

luke454 said:
I have two weeks to complete the conversion so I need as much info as I can get. The plan is to find out all the problem areas before I start so everything goes smoothly, so any tips you can give about those lovely fiddely problems (if anymore than you have already stated) will be much appreciated.

Thanks chief,

2 weeks hey, I wish u luck! It is possible without any problems but it is a fair bit to do in a short time frame. It is not that it is a difficult conversion but things take time to do properly. Any other questions PM me or post here.
 
After a week of frustration and anger the motor and box are finally mounted. I tell you what though it wasent easy! After 3/4 of the way there I found out that the crossmember on the VN V8 is different from the V6. Im guessing this is why I had so many problems as I have a V6 crossmember and it hit all over the shop! Anyway, my main concern now is the wiring, Whats the plan? Is there a detailed guide anywhere I can follow to get this sucker up an running?
 
Good to hear!! Yeah the crossmembers are quite different, well done on getting through it!! So whats the projected time frame now?? Also make sure you post some pictures up once its all done.

Cant really offer any help with the wiring though, i have aftermarket management so just followed the manual that came with it.
 
Well, its been almost three weeks now. The whole thing is completely finished accept I cant seem to get the basterd running properly! Its really starting to give me the willy's. Whats the go with aftermarket ECU's etc, am I better off running one? if so what type is the best and where can I get it from? Hard to install?
 
Luke,

Depends where you live.

If you live in NSW you need the stock ECU to register it.

You would also be required to run an IM240 emissions test.
 
I live in QLD, i've decided to go an aftermarket computer and loom, i cant get this bastered running the way it is. Any suggestions on what system is the go and where I might get it from?
 
Almost any aftermarket ECU will run the engine. Just pick one that your tuner of choice is familar with and is in your price range - of course the cheaper ones havnt got all the bells and whistles of say a motec, but they still do a good job of running the engine.

Iam using a Wolf3D V4 Plus and it works without any mods to the engine. It also runs the stepper motor for idle control - for an all up cost of $1300 including ignitors Iam very happy with it. If u decide to use this ECU let me know and i will send u over the map from my car - its a very conservative tune though but if your engine is stock it will be a perfect starting point. Netted me 209rwhp but there is a fair amount left in it, was only a 30 min dyno to get it all up and running, more dyno time will be spent when a hairdryer or two make their way into the engine bay.
 
Rod,

You don't have to run the standard ecu to register it in NSW.
I am running a Microtech LTX12 and have installed an Enderlie Bug Catcher as the throttle body, had no probs engineering and registering the car
 
Well, I have checked around on a few prices and I was keen on the Autronic Engine management, but after discovering that I was looking at around $3000 (so I was quoted) I have decided to stick to the stock ecu.

Back to wiring again unfortunately, this piece of $h!t just wont run properly, I have hooked up the efi relay, circuit opening relay, fuel pump relay (all work properly) and have run power to the ignition etc and it just wont bloody run properly. Is this all I have to hook up? I have checked thoroughly and im sure this is all I need to hook up. The only thing I dont have hooked up is the Vapor pressure sensor, I dont have one. I have power to everything and everything seems to be working but its just not happening. The left hand side extractors were glowing for a while so I pulled the distributers off and found they were caked with corrosion, so I cleaned those out, put everything back together and bam, kicked up first start, BUT it wont rev over about 1500rpm. The extractors arn't glowing anymore but now the bastered wont rev. I have double checked everything is plugged in properly and still has power. Sure enough it all does. Does anyone know what the hell is wrong with this heap of poop! If I cant get it going by Friday Im afraid I will have to put the blasted V6 back in. If anyone has any information they can give me on what might be the problem please let me know either via this website or my mobile on 0427 552 247. I'm just not too impressed with the thought that I have spent over 3 weeks of hard earned holidays now on this conversion only to put the V6 back in it, Happy days...

Anyway guys, any ideas let us know.

Thanks.

Luke.
 
you would be worth checking this if you have not already.

the guy i'm buying the falcon off fitted with 1UZ said when he bought the half cut they had it running and showed him, they steam cleaned the thing before delivery and it sat in his shed for a while without a thought, but when he decided to check things out, water had got down into sppark plug holes and rusted(corroded) leads and spark plugs which he had to replace(lucky me) cost was considerable,
 
GTLexus,

How long ago did you engineer yours and who did it for you?

I'd preffer to engineer the car with the supercharger engine (probably without the supercharger) so I don't go thru pain changing the engine # later.

Luke,

I dropped my car off at the Toyota Dealer today and their going to put it on their diagnostic machine so I can see what's wrong with it as it feels "flat" almost like the ignition isn't advancing.

I figured I could spend a few dollars and have them tell me whats wrong or I could spend days swapping sensors and re-checking connections to find the problem.

If you could get someone like Ultra Tune who has the diagnostics equipment come to you it would save lots of pain.

An engine that won't run up high sounds like it either has insufficient fuel (try blocked injectors, faulty fuel pump or general fuel blockage) or an ignition problem.

If fuel it should just run out of revs. If ignition it shoud fart and miss and carry on whilst it fails to rev.
 
Rod, my car is feeling very flat as well, over 3500-4000rpm and upwards.
I too thought it was ignition not advancing, but I did a datalog with my laptop and everything looks normal.

I showed my tuner, and all he can think of (from just looking at the datalog) is that the fuel pump isn't providing enough fuel.
Well, it is 250,000km's old, and has been pumping a shitload of fuel for the last 6months.

So, I've got a Walbro to go in there. And that should fix the problem (fingers crossed).
Should have that done in a few weeks.


400ZED, I thought limp home mode basically just locked the timing to 10degBTDC, and wouldn't go into closed-loop mode and a few other things.
The car should still be drivable.



And Luke,
Check the fuel rail pressure, determine if your pump is working well enough.
Also, look into getting the injectors cleaned.
Although, when mine were blocked, I could still rev, I was just well down on power.

I think you are just going to have to sit there with a multimeter, check continuity of wire after wire.
 
hey luke just start from scratch again
check the basics

if the engine runs its a start

if it has a miss then check injectors and plugs

if it feels sluggish then check for leaks

it cant be that hard check baisc mechanicals first

the loom is all one unit unless u cut it up

so all the sensors on the engine should still be connected

i do these with my eyes shut

if your loom is intact and it starts then it might be mechanical or a leak

if you cut the loom up then maybe check it

usually if the loom is all intact they will run perfect or not run at all


if you have fuel lines on backwards thing wont even start
 
Hey, thanks for all your help guys but unfortunately I have decided to abort mission for now. I think I may have bitten off a bit more than I can chew with my time limit. I have decided to fix the hilux (dirty old v6 chev, never stops!) and send the harness away to someone who is a bit more confident with what their doing. One thing though, I am having some trouble finding an auto eleky that is capable of doing the job. Anyone have any recommendations of an auto electrition near Bundaberg/Brisbane worthy of rewiring a 96 ls400 into a VN? Most guys I have spoken to have not installed a standard ECU before and apparantly,with the later modell 1UZFE's there is some trick involved with the speedo (dont know how true this is) that if it is not connected, the motor will not run properly.

Anyway, I have checked fuel pressure and spark, wiring and have thoroughly earthed the motor (just incase) and still no good. It sounds as lumpy as a big block with 80º overlap. I gather these motors are not meant to sound like this. Very hard to distinguish weather it is spark or fuel, it is very similar to the simptoms of a car with a dead condensor. Not to worry, it will go one day, ill see how I go once I get the loom back, ill find out the problem too and let you guys know. Thanks again for your help lads,

Luke
 
Sounds like it is running very lean, Id get the injectors serviced and see how it goes - this should be done as part of the few pre-install jobs. It may or may not solve the problem but for the 100 bucks it costs it is well worth it.
 
If it idles like a hot big block it sounds like it's rich.

PM Sideshow. jetstars cheap and I figure he can sort your problems. Give him a go!
 
i have wired many of these up
crowns
lexus and soarer 1uzs

there i sa trick with the speedo and theres 2 ways to go around it

i do it the proper way but this is only if u plan to run the auto aswell
and its only a prob on the crown 1uz

the soarer and lexus 1uz are easy

if you want me to fix your loom with relays and sort of the left over wires and label what is left which is prob less than 8 wires
then i can do it for a price

i wire up japanese and many other engines for my every day job
so i know alot more than yr basic auto electrician
 
by the way i wil be in brissy in a month to fix a job some other worshop did and didnt do a good job
 


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