1UZ in AE86 - will 92' LS400 donor car have all wiring neccesary?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

arkannot86

New Member
Messages
20
Location
SJ,CA
I have a complete donor car LS and a complete AE86 GTS. Since both cars are toyota EFI, will all I have to do is swap ECU & loom, trick ECU for 5-spd, and tap wires to power the ECU? I think I also need to tap a few wires for tach, chk engine light, & temp gauge. But what else excatly do I need to do to get a basic running setup? Im reading confusing things about using Crown ECU's and repinning connectors & such. I just want to know what wires in the loom need to go where on the AE86 underdash harness or front body harness! Any pointers are appreciated!
 

Attachments

  • P1010892.JPG
    P1010892.JPG
    64.7 KB · Views: 164
  • P1010893.JPG
    P1010893.JPG
    77.7 KB · Views: 165
  • P1010895.JPG
    P1010895.JPG
    56.5 KB · Views: 163
You dont need to trick the ecu for a manaul conversion. I did absolutly no wireing related to my manual, and my car runs great. that is a myth thats needs to die.


yes arkannot86, just remove the entire engine harness with the engine, pop the ecu connector though the harness port on the firewall plug in the ecu, and there is about 7 wires that will need to modified to provide power to the ecu, tell it to start ect. and those have yet to be determined as we talked about that in the ma70 wireing thread.
 
ok Jake right on. yea somebody was sayin you need a crown ECU to run the 5-spd. Glad you cleared that up for me! So only 7 wires doesnt sound too bad.
 
You dont need to trick the ecu for a manaul conversion. I did absolutly no wireing related to my manual, and my car runs great. that is a myth thats needs to die.

So on my non-crown ECT (trans control) I can literally just unplug it and throw it in the garbage? If it's a false myth why do the write ups on lextreme say it has to be tricked?
 
83GT,
There are heaps of different ECUs for the 1UZ and some people have had trouble, others haven't. The best thing to do is plug it in and try it. If you don't get any error codes when driving, then it's all ok. If your check engine light comes on, then ask the lads in the forum more specific questions based on the problem(s) you're having.
 
Alright sounds good. Thanks for the help. I was thinking of just running aftermarket ECU to eliminate the risk. Sorry for thread hijacking.
 
so many myths becasue idiots on forums round the world

who dont have time to research stuff

they ask too many questions and never actually ty to work something out in their dumb head

7 wires will get the ecu to turn on maybe if u conect all powers together

to get fuel pump working properly as factory u need another 6 wires

to turn on the ecu properly u need another 4 wires


to run the alternator u need 3 wires

the ae86 has external voltage reg so which has 6 wires so u need to make those 6 into 3 so u loose 3 wires **** thats great

the reverse lights need to work thats another 2 wores


the starter motor needs to spin thats and nother 2 wires

the 1uz will not fit easily in the ae86 so u need a fan thats another 4 or 5 wires

then theres afew wires for the dash

so i think theres a little more than 7 wires

if this forums would let me say how i feel each time someone says only 7 wires and not bleep it all out it would be a much better site

its not hard to wire it up
u just need patience and a multimeter

workshop manuals help abit but they do not help u get thru it very quickly

thats y i make my own diagrams totally different to how workshop manuals do

but the main thing is do not get it stuck into your head thats its just 7 wires

if it was 7 wires just like jake ....... said then this site would not be here or id be out of a job

it might be 7 wires but it will look like bird poo and it will be like factory

main thing alot of people do not do is run fuel pump properly

they just connect it off ign wire

this can be illegal cause if u have a crash yr pump will keep running and yr car might catch alight

so end of day it can be deemed to be illegal
 

Attachments

  • AFM_and_piping2.jpg
    AFM_and_piping2.jpg
    42.6 KB · Views: 19
Ummmm, I did probably 95% of the wiring on Jake's car and YES, it only took 7 or so wires to get his car running period, end of story, no if, ands or buts about it.

His question was for a basic running setup and that is all that is needed to fire up the motor.

Now yes, the more you want to work, the more you will have to hook up and that fact I will not argue and not every swap will be the same.
 

Attachments

  • Injector 002.jpg
    Injector 002.jpg
    74 KB · Views: 79
  • Injector 003.jpg
    Injector 003.jpg
    140.5 KB · Views: 73
  • Injector 005.jpg
    Injector 005.jpg
    72.2 KB · Views: 72
  • Injector 004.jpg
    Injector 004.jpg
    70.8 KB · Views: 72
  • Injector 008.jpg
    Injector 008.jpg
    46 KB · Views: 73
  • Injector 001.jpg
    Injector 001.jpg
    72.4 KB · Views: 73
well my idea of wiring up a car does not just mean the engine

getting enigne running is the easy part

getting rest to work is the hard part

anyway i cant be stuffed arguing

running the 7 wires i guess u dont count hooking up relays and stuff just like the factory was

so i guess thats y afew jobs have probs in the future
 
well my idea of wiring up a car does not just mean the engine

getting enigne running is the easy part

getting rest to work is the hard part

anyway i cant be stuffed arguing

running the 7 wires i guess u dont count hooking up relays and stuff just like the factory was

so i guess thats y afew jobs have probs in the future

Hooking up what is needed for a particular situation is the key. I have wired swaps that you would never know anything was not factory cause the car was intended to be that way, but at that same time I can not for the life of me see how having everything and hooking everything up as if it were factory would be needed if it were a gutted track car. Simplisity is key there, So like the first sentance says, "Hooking up what is needed for a particular situation is the key."
 
i know but 99% of conversions are for road cars not track cars


where are you localed beocuse around here most people who are doing swaps are racing their car in some form or another, they might not be in any high end form of racing where they have a deticated car, trailer, pit equipment, team members ect. but they track the car often very many of those take it just a little further with elimating things that wont help the car get down or around the track any quicker but may contribute to slowing it down a bit.

my supra for instance is still registered, and at the moment is my ride to work. but its my track car. the interior is bare, nothing but a race seat, dash pad, and input devices. i do not have AC, i do not have ps, i do not have heat, i do not have heated leather 47way adjustable newborn llama skin covered seats with matching head liner and door pannels.


the origonal question was:
"what else excatly do I need to do to get a basic running setup?"

and the answer is not mind bending super complex wireing job that includes things not even related to the ecu such as fans, and does not include things that are already interally wired in the stock harness such as the starter.

i feel you are on a mission to keep people thinking that its very diffacult to wire up a 1uz into a car in an effort to keep bussness. and i prolly would have never thought about it but you had to go and call me an idiot,
who doesnt reasearch stuff, and post on forums instead of working stuff out in my dumb head. and wishing you could be more profane twords me.

the reality is i have a 1uz+manual powered supra, it runs great, albit basic, i did very little reasearch online about 1uz swaps, although i did use chrises knoledge and help to complete the swap with minimal headaces.


had you been a little more polite i might have thought about recomending you to someone that wants a 100% stock street 1uz car, but **** that.
 
Im not doubting sideshows knowledge about 1uz swaps, but my confusion originally came from some of his earlier posts. I made this thread to TRY TO clear up all this.......
 
I have a complete donor car LS and a complete AE86 GTS. Since both cars are toyota EFI, will all I have to do is swap ECU & loom, trick ECU for 5-spd, and tap wires to power the ECU? I think I also need to tap a few wires for tach, chk engine light, & temp gauge. But what else excatly do I need to do to get a basic running setup? Im reading confusing things about using Crown ECU's and repinning connectors & such. I just want to know what wires in the loom need to go where on the AE86 underdash harness or front body harness! Any pointers are appreciated!


You will need a set of SC 400 exhaust manifolds, the passenger side will fit, but you have to modify the drivers side to clear the steering column. In order for your hood to close you will have to lower the front subframe about 1", I lowered mine 1 3/8". Sr5 power steering lines work almost perfectly, you will have to buy a couple feet of return hose because the sr5 return is just a bit short. As far as wiring, just get diagrams for both cars and work your way through and figure it out. It isn't that bad as long as you stay organized and take your time. Good luck.
 
Ah damn..... I threw away those sr5 power steering lines!! ck1uzae86, did you have to cut the firewall? I saw that Jake did on his car.
 
Ah damn..... I threw away those sr5 power steering lines!! ck1uzae86, did you have to cut the firewall? I saw that Jake did on his car.

lets clearify, i didnt have to cut my firewall. i did that becouse of the setup im going for is not anything like a street car.

if i was building a street car/ weekend track beater i wouldnt have touched the firewall.
 
No, I did not touch the firewall. Only thing I had to mess with back there was re-routing some brake lines that were between the valve cover and brake booster. That may not be the case with your car, some cars have the line run under the brake booster, some around it.
 
Ok cool. yea cutting the firewall seems a little excessive for what im doin... I had a look at my booster today and it looks like the lines go around the booster at like a 7 o'clock position. It looks like this might be a problem... I will be able to test mount the engine soon when I get my adapter!! thanks for helping guys, its nice to know what problems I might run into.
 


Top