1UZ-FE or 1UZ-FE VVT

[Smoke]

Hi I am about to start a Kit car build using the 1UZ-FE or 1UZ-FE VVT
what are the merits of each engine?
How difficult will each be to wire up and get the engine running once installed ?
I will select the a donor car once I have decided which engine will be used.
so all parts will be available the engine will not be tuned once fitted.
Cheers Smoke

 

[JustenGT8]

neither, an LS1is a much more sensible engine choice

If you are dead set on a UZ and staying n/a then the VVTi for sure...and will produce decent hp stock with just ECU and exhaust.

Cheap boosted go with a pre 95 UZ.

Fully built boosted then the VVTi again as heads are a million miles better.

Strange to choose engine then chassis? and no real difference in fitting between UZ variants.

An LS will be simpler, make more power and has much much better aftermarket support. Hard to argue against unless you have a specific reason for going UZ?

 

[Smoke]

Thanks for the reply
I am building a ford 34 on 4x2 boxed chassis so the v8 is a must the donor car will be scrapped once I have taken all the parts I need.
I will be using a jag rear end
But what parts do a need to allow the engine to function correctly.
eg: which sensors on the donor car can I get away not using.

 

[sideshow]

its hard to convert people to the good old gm pushrod lsx motors hehehe

most popular motor in the world by a mile when it comes to aftermarket parts

 

[XR8tt]

Whats wrong with fitting a 5.0 in a Ford ???
400+ h.p... N/A...

 

[Smoke]

Thanks for the input guys but it doesn't answer my questions
Building a rod is about blending the old with the new which the ls400 engine should fulfil I hope.
its also about bang for your buck £750 will buy the whole car.
For a 5.0 your looking at £2000+ just for the engine.
At the moment it seems if you build a ford 32 or 34 it should be fitted with a small block which I don't have a problem with but its does seem to be a little bit clone'ish.
I would like to try something a little different so I have come to the forum to seek the answers and advice I need which I hope will help others as well.

 

[Bushwhacker]

Thanks for the input guys but it doesn't answer my questions
Building a rod is about blending the old with the new which the ls400 engine should fulfil I hope.
its also about bang for your buck £750 will buy the whole car.
For a 5.0 your looking at £2000+ just for the engine.
At the moment it seems if you build a ford 32 or 34 it should be fitted with a small block which I don't have a problem with but its does seem to be a little bit clone'ish.
I would like to try something a little different so I have come to the forum to seek the answers and advice I need which I hope will help others as well.

I totally agree with you there, customising is all about doing your own thing not a 'version' of someone else's.

The 1UZ can be made to look very nice, here's two that I done last year.....



I try and hide as much of the engine wiring as possible so just the injector wires are visible.

 

[Lextreme II]

Depends on your setup and budget. Just swap and run I would say 1uzfe, but if you cheapest for the most power would be LSxx. VVTi is nice be harder to find and little bit more complicated due to OBDII.

 

[gloverman]

Presently I am doing twice as many VVti motors to early motors. The VVti leaves the early motors for dead for power and now I have worked with them I find them just as easy to wire. There is alot more info around the early motors which gives the perception they are easier. If you have a complete car as a donor I think it will make very little difference. In most cases we are finding the VVti motors cheaper in the end as they are newer and require less work to get them up to standard.

I do like the LS motors too and they make more power but this isnt always what its about. The great thing about the 1uz is they dont overpower many drivetrains and chassis. Many people who recommend the early motor either dont know about the VVti or have never worked with them. Cheers

 

[Smoke]

Thanks for the positive feed back guys
Bushwhacker: nice engines
Gloverman: The chassis I am using should more than capable of taking the power.
100mmx50mmx4mm Box section cross braced down its length.
The transmission will be from the donor car the rear axle currently Jag 4.2 litre V8.
But may fit the donor IRS if I can.
Which engine and transmission sensors do I need to fit so the engine doesn't go into limp mode when its fired up?
Cheers

 

[gloverman]

As for engine sensors needed - all of them is basicly it. you need every sensor that is attached to the engine loom. Lexus did not put any extra sensors onto the VVti motors. They start and stall instandly without the air flow meter , I also recommend using the donor shifter and wiring. Make sure you get the key , coil(key reader) and immobiliser ampifier for the security otherwise you will be talking to me to sort the security and im not sharing the info sorry ( its send me the ECU) You can get away without using the post cat oxygen sensors but they will throw a code so maybe grab them too and if they arent fitted to the exhaust match a large resistor to remove the code. The code is a heater code. These engines dont run a fuel ECU. When we get the motors we very really get anything more than the motor with engine loom, ecu and airflow meter. we dont even get the three body plugs that go to the ECU so I have had to work out how to get them sorted, security and all. Here is a link to what I do to get them going

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=442452569

Note that the bottles on the desk where a vital part of sorting the whole system out and I highly recommend using the same products or similar ones which are avaliable locally while doing your conversion.

If you have a whole car then you will have all the required parts.

I wasnt trying to say your chassis wouldnt handle the power but we sometimes put motors into bodies like 1980 KE70 corolla. Put a LS1 into one of those and they twist to bits where the 1uz isnt so bad.

Cheers

 

[Smoke]

Thanks for the information gloverman I will remember to take the required products
(for medicinal purposes) when I start to tear the engine out of the donor car.
Engine in the you tube clip sounds spot-on.
Cheers

 

[yOHda]

Do internals not play a part? I bought a 1uz for my FJ40 today and stuck with a 92 motor due to the reading some of the threads on lextreme on the differences in internals. wiring a vvti motor didnt bother me, but the size difference in the rods does.

im hoping to make up some hp difference with tundra headers and a port and polish.

 

[beario]

smoke are you the dude scottie transport dropped of the motor too...

 

[gloverman]

If going N/a then the internals of the VVti are fine. Forced induction is a totally different story. The VVti in standard form still out perform a mildly tweaked early motor with ease. The head design is alot better and then the VVti just adds torque everywhere.

 

[yOHda]

Interesting. i didnt know there were benefits of the VVti for torque, i assumed it had a "vtec" type feel which i dont want for wheeling. it sounds like VVti is a lot smoother throughout the powerband. after i pull my donor and scrap the rest ill break even on this early motor so ill keep an eye out for a later one. thanks for the response gloverman!!


*EDIT* Gloverman i was just reading another thread. Is you name Kelvin? Mine is too!? Wierd...