Congrats Thermactor! I'd noticed you'd changed your avatar in another post and was wondering "what's up with that?". Then noticed you'd updated your build thread. I like your analogies; they are so trueI took it for a quick spin on the highway. A few observations:
1) I've never noticed slow traffic in front of me being such an impediment before.
2) This thing cranks up from 55-90mph in zero seconds flat, as if it's being pushed by the fist of an angry God.
Thanks John! This blower project was so, so easy to do. Compared to doing the NA-T on my old Supra, it was about 1/4 the work. Compared to changing the transmission in my driveway... jeez, I'd rather not think about it!Congrats Thermactor! I'd noticed you'd changed your avatar in another post and was wondering "what's up with that?". Then noticed you'd updated your build thread. I like your analogies; they are so true
Well, I've been putting around over the past few weeks with the system.
The blower is prone to some serious heatsoak. This has the effect of keeping my IATs pretty dang high once the car is warm. I've seen the IATs reach 130 deg. F on a 70 degree day. I don't know where the safety limit is.
The transmission's shift points are disappointing. If I want to quickly gun it, I'll put the throttle down maybe 3/4 of the way. The car starts to scoot, especially as the RPMs go up, but then the damn transmission shifts at 4500!!!
I'm also interested in moving the power curve downward. I want more power - I want 5-6psi now. The answer to that lies in a smaller pulley, maybe 3", but then I'll need to install a boost-activated windshield washer fluid injection system. That's a whole stage in and of itself.
There's a wealth of information and misinformation on the internet about these systems, and I see their prices run the gamut between $200-450. In the spirit of this blower project, I want something much cheaper. Hmmm
All right, a complete made-to-order kit is the way to go then. I'll keep my eye out for used units. I guess there are several places I could put it. There's room behind my bumper where I could mount the pump and tank.LOL.
It's never enough.
I warned you about the heat. I'm surprised it doesn't get higher. Maybe due to the fact that it's a bigger unit.
You could get a Suprastick maybe, not sure how many solenoids your transmission has.
Don't use washer fluid. It does work but Methanol is cheap enough. It's 4 dollars a gallon in my area and I have just ran out of the 5 gallons I bought nearly a year ago. I probably drive my car harder than you do yours, if nothing else, I am constantly at the dragstrip, so it would likely last you longer. Then you can play around with different water to meth ratios.
I would suggest a kit from here: http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/
Just keep in mind that if you are going to make your own kit, pump pressure and the nozzles are very important. Your washer fluid pump won't work well.
I'll have to tighten the trans kickdown cable. Great suggestion, thank you. I haven't seen any freewheeling between gear shifts, fortunately, but I certainly don't want to wear the transmission to that point so quickly.Also, does the 1995+ have a kickdown cable like the 1st gen has? If you do, tighten it 1-2 full turns and go try it out. It will change all your shift points directly based on pedal input. I used to be able to grab 3rd gear only up to 65mph, after tightening, I could still drop into 3rd at 75mph... effectively throwing it into full boost for lethal freeway passing abilities
I was forced to tighten mine because at factory settings my transmission was shifting so slowly that my engine was over revving to 7,000 and I ended up with a blown HG a week later. The engine was sort of "free wheeling" during gear shifts. Are you seeing this at all with your vortech?
KC, I actually did think of that. The highway speed coast-downs with the throttle plate closed, and nowhere for the compressed air to go, HAS to have a tremendous heating effect on the blower.Are you using a bypass valve? I am not currently using one but have in the past. Using one dramatically decreases intake temps for normal driving since no boost is actually made. Most noticable on the highway.
I don't think your "kickdown" cable is actually that. At least its not on my car. It is simply a pressure control cable. My car uses the TPS for shift points. You can adjust it but doing so can change a few other things. You could try disconnecting the battery for a bit then driving the hell out of it for awhile.