This is my project
Where do I start, ok here goes
All this is going into a 1979 HZ Holden One Ton Cab Chassis
So far I have been building it for about 8 years.

Specs are.
1uzfe Twin turbo using Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Turbos with 3inch mandrel bent dumps and separate waste gate pipes
Custom (by me) steam pipe turbo headers
Supra 7mgte 440cc injectors
Modified fuel rail (dual inlet, dual outlet)
SX fuel pressure regulator
SX Hi Flow filter
Bosh motor sport 044 EFI fuel pump with Holley Blue lift pump
Motorsport surge tank.
Ported heads with reshaped combustion chambers, heads have been cc’d and blue printed on re-assembly
3 angle valve grind
2mm Copper head gaskets
8.9:1 Cr
Port matched intake manifold
Ported, modified, relocated Throttle Body
Direct fire waste spark multi coil CDI Ignition System.
Honda CBR600 f4i CDI coil on plugs.
M&W Pro14 CDI box.
Wolf 3D version 4 fully programmable engine management, incorporating electronic boost control.
Distributers deleted.
600x300x75 (core size) tube and fin front mount intercooler.
Trust type R plumb back bov.
Ducted Trust Grex oil cooler with billet remote filter.
Mocal oil thermostat.
Everything Speedflow.
CRS engine mounts, sump, bell-housing, flywheel.
Jim Berry modified GT4 pressure plate, with 3500lb clamp, 5 puck carbonic sprung hub disk.
Rack and pinion steering conversion using a modified UC Torana manual rack.
Custom steering arms.
Custom stub axles and hubs.
Rebuilt, strengthened and blue printed R154 with an aftermarket intermediate bearing carrier and new cryo treated 1st gear thrust washer, all new bearings and sincro's.
31 spline Nine inch diff 3.9:1 lsd disc brake with Ford SVO Nodular Iron carrier, billet hat, Mark Williams 31 spline billet axles, daytona pinion support etc,etc.
Poly bushed adjustable four link rear with coil over shocks.
Front brakes, 330mm X 32mm slotted DBA 40000 series motorsport front rotors with Porsche 996 GT3 monoblock 4 differential piston callipers, on billet steel hubs with custom 6061 T6 calliper adapters.
Rear, 330 X 28mm slotted DBA 40000 series motorsport rotors with Porsche 996 GT3 monoblock 4 differerential piston callipers, custom calliper adapters.
Wilwood adjustable brake bias valve.
And all sorts of other bits and pieces

It is a total reconstruction from the ground up starting with a back to bare metal chassis and working up from there. Has all the GTS gear, Sports dash, vented guards + recaros, etc.
I have used all new parts where available and reconditioned everything myself that I couldn’t buy new.
New glass all round, recoed doorglass winders, new weather seals, baily channels, door rubbers, rebushed door hinges, urethane suspension bushings thruout the chassis, recoed steering column and rack and pinion steering conversion.
New grill, headlight surrounds, headlights, blinkers, parkers, yes everything, all reassembled with stainless socket head bolts and screws.
Most of it is together, really just finishing off the drive train at the moment.
I painted it in a nice dark 2pack pearl blue metalic.
Its going to be my daily driver / work hack.
It is very time consuming for me building a vehicle as I am a perfectionist (my wife says obsessive compulsive) and do everything myself, chassis work, body work, fabrication, paint , electrical, mechanical, head work, gearbox, etc etc.


New Member
Show us more.Luv a good tunna az i had 1 aswell with a injected vt clubsport create motor.But i sold that to finance my current project and long time dream my 1uz vl commy.


Very very impressive, looks like you havent cut any corners.Top job. Will wait in anticapation on power results ect.......
Turbo headers.
These pics are a bit old, I have since re-made them in a slightly different shape to tidy up a couple of the pipe merges.
Very happy with them now, will post more up to date pics later.
(edit) Added a few pics of the RH Turbo header that I recently re-made.
Got sick of waiting for my mate the welder to finish weld them, so I did them myself.
You can also see the brace that bolts them back to the head to prevent cracking from the pendulum effect of the high mount position.
I welded them inside and out at the flanges then port matched them to the heads. The Turbo flanges are also welded internally and externally then tidied up with the dye grinder
The shiny one just needs to have the flanges machined, then they are off to be ceramic coated inside and out.
Came up okay I think for welded steam pipe.


"Supra" Moderator
Staff member
Superb work; it's obvious now why you picked the username that you did!

Any more pics, impressions or thoughts about your COP setup? (I've saved all that you posted previously, as I'll be at that point with my build next month)

Thanks John, no nothing new on the cop front other than it all fits really well.
I have been reading that alot of the serious honda guys in your country use these cops combined with the EMS CDI box and get great results.


New Member

im very impressed you have forked out big time for this project im doin the same thing except im putting a naturally aspirated engine in (for now:veryhappy ) a hq one tonne ute. i was woulndering if your engine mounts mounted to the origonal mount posistions or did u have to weld them into different spots in the engine bay. also how did you run your power steering? did u use the lexus pump connected to the modified torana steering box. im very interested in the steering mod as the hq steering is shocking. does the mod increase the turning circle.
you have done an exelent job and im guessing in excess of 40k has been spent but its only money
Hi Nutta, no welding with the mounts, the CRS adapters use ht-hg rubber engine mounts which bolt straight in.
And no power steering sorry, I have used a manual rack.
No change to the turning circle.
The manual rack gives a much director, lighter, steering than the worm drive box, idler arm and draglink setup. While retaining good road feel, something that the HQ-WB power boxs do not.
Doing the rack conversion involves major surgery, so only attempt this if you are very capable and experienced also in front end geometry.
This type of work also has to be engineered so its a good idea to use a ticketed welder for the chasis mods that are needed.
I used a series of laser pointers and a home made jig to map geometry changes through out suspension travel and steering angle change. I would suggest doing something similiar so you know exactly what effects the changes you are making have done.
There are no original components used in my front end at all, zero, so as you can see its a big job not for the faint harted.
Let me know if you need any more info.



New Member

yeh i didnt realize it was that bigger job. i might just get my steering box rebuilt shes a bit shagged. i found out i can get hoses made up to use the lexus pump for the hq steering. when u said you used ht-hg munting points is this because u changed your front end. i think castlemain rod shop makes te munts for my car with lexus motor so i might give them a call tommorow. what sort of price did u pay for all that gear box and the work you had done to it, im going to run a turbo 350 with the addapter from the rod shop mainly for price reasons i figure i can have a pritty sturdy auto built for around the 1000 dollar mark. in saying that a manual would be much more fun. ford diffs drain a fair bit of power to i was thinking of using a v8 borg warner out of vn-vp dunnydore. also what wheels are you running and what stud pattern are your axels commy, old holden ect. cheers Mitch


Hi Mitch, in order to use the standard box you will need to relocate the alternator on the 1uzfe as they share the same spot (no biggie).
Front end geometry of HQ-WB is really not that bad, HZ on is the best (the RTS chassis) but if you lower it at all it really stuffs it.
Best budget setup in my opinion is RTS chassis with CRS drop spindles and VT commy brakes.


"Supra" Moderator
Staff member
Trev, were you planning to wrap or insulate those fuel lines to avoid fuel percolation? It'd be a shame to cover up all that purdy braided line, but it might help hot starts.