Performance Brake Upgrades

persian451

New Member
well i would like to put in an order, but all the phone numbers provided will not pickup. And my PM hasnt been answered... any ideas?
 

ChrisV

New Member
Can we get tech on whether or not thay actually work? Like back to back tests on stopping distances and fade?
 

FatCat

New Member
Good experience with R1

Put on slotted rotors, stainless steel brake lines, with PosiQuiet Ceramic pads as recommended by R1. My LS400 stops wonderfully quick, and more importantly, brake modulation is wonderful. My new LS 430 feels like crap now. I'll get the same setup for the LS430 as soon as I can.
 

stevechumo

Active Member
Put on slotted rotors, stainless steel brake lines, with PosiQuiet Ceramic pads as recommended by R1. My LS400 stops wonderfully quick, and more importantly, brake modulation is wonderful. My new LS 430 feels like crap now. I'll get the same setup for the LS430 as soon as I can.
I swapped the '95 LS400 brake system to my SC400 and it's a lot better. I use SS lines, ceramic, drilled/slotted rotors. I haven't tried to upgrade a single component at a time to see the improvement, but I believe each of them is an advantage over stock.
 

Bendrx

New Member
I've never bought from these people but I almost did. They're ISO 9000 certified and proud of it, but when asked why they don't have 9001 (which to my understanding means they actually verify that 9000 standards are met) they never replied. I'd be very uneasy about the quality of thier products. That being said, I'm having issues with my new brakes, so hey, maybe I picked a worse company to buy from.
 

Attachments

buicype09

New Member
Brake Upgrade Sponsored By R1 Concepts

I am in need of brake work, and decided I want to upgrade from OEM. I only put about 5k miles a year on my 06 AWD, but its hard mileage. I drive fast, and brake hard. I looked at the R1 Concepts but they dont list front brake pads. Should I go slotted, or slotted and drilled? What are some suggestions? I am looking to get this done in the next few weeks. Thanks.
 

spf_lexus

New Member
I just tried "Disc Italia" pads for the first time and found them perfect. They are titanium kevlar material and ran $60 per axle set. No noise, no dust, high operating temp and great bite with drilled rotors.

If your always giving your brake system a workout drilled/slotted in combination with a high temp pad will last longer with substantially less fade. Stay away from organic and ceramic pads if your concerned with performance. Metallic are the way to go for "all out" but squeal and tend to score rotors. I find semi-metallics the best medium for all-around pad thats leaning towards the abused spectrum.
 

stevechumo

Active Member
I'm using slotted and drilled rotors and they work great so far with hard driving. I'm not using R1 brake parts, but they look good. For front brake pads, I'm using Monroe ceramic pads and they stop soo good with no noticeable noise. Quiet & soft pads like orgainic pads don't tend to stop good with hard driving.
 

fastegg

Member
Braided steel hoses

Does anyone know who sells braided steel brake hoses for UCF20 ?

...and, my brakes work fine but the pedal feels like pushing a sponge....
.. some guys reckon putting braided hoses on will make very little if any noticable difference......
... Can anyone comment on this ?
 

cribbj

"Supra" Moderator
Staff member
Spongy pedal is due to "something" allowing unwanted expansion in the hydraulic system.

It's usually air, but can be hoses that are "ballooning" as the pressure builds.

I fought a spongy pedal after a recent brake job, and the shop tried everything "they" knew, including a gravity fill/drain of the system, rather than a pressure fill/drain, to avoid introducing air. Nothing worked.

Took it to another specialist shop run by a guy who's done nothing but brake & suspension work for nearly 20 years. He bled the system again, BUT tapped each caliper with a wooden mallet as he was bleeding, and "poof" out came a bit more trapped air from several calipers.

The very best way of bleeding, IMO, is a reverse vacuum bleed, where you first get the system filled and bled in the normal way, then you fit a vacuum pump over the master cylinder reservoir, and pull a small vacuum on the system to remove the last of the trapped/dissolved air. No one does this except an anally retentive Supra owner that I know, but it makes perfect sense to do.
 

fastegg

Member
spongy brakes

well thats interesting..... i, with my mechanic have tried changing the brake fluid to DOT 5.... bled it till it hurt.... and it made no difference what so ever....
.. However now that you've told me a different way, i will most definatly try it.
.... What do you think about braided lines ?
 
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