Project Thread Project SC400TT

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Gang, I finally figured out how to save this video to file on my computer. I downloaded HandBrake and that program allowed it. I have now uploaded this video to PhotoBucket.

Keep in mind this is the first ever start of this newly built motor, and that the base MAP is barely sufficient to run the motor. It was also suffering from some vacuum leaks, plus I initially ran a T between the Autronic SM4 internal MAP vacuum line with the vacuum line on the Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator....A big no no for the Autronic. So it is idling quite rough in this video. I have since adjusted the MAP, and have corrected most of the vacuum leaks, especially being sure to dedicate the SM4 MAP to its own vacuum line. The car then idled significantly better and allowed me to run three heat cycles to seat up the internals a bit. I did not get a recording of that because I accidentally had the cam corder on standby....:22:. Anyway, the mix was still way too rich, and fouled the plugs a bit. I will be making a few more adjustments this week, and installing a colder plug with a heat range of 8, which should be just right for my set up.

Here is the video....
th_SC400TTStartUp.jpg

Ryan
 
Gang, I finally figured out how to save this video to file on my computer. I downloaded HandBrake and that program allowed it. I have now uploaded this video to YouTube.

Keep in mind this is the first ever start of this newly built motor, and that the base MAP is barely sufficient to run the motor. It was also suffering from some vacuum leaks, plus I initially ran a T between the Autronic SM4 internal MAP vacuum line with the vacuum line on the Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator....A big no no for the Autronic. So it is idling quite rough in this video. I have since adjusted the MAP, and have corrected most of the vacuum leaks, especially being sure to dedicate the SM4 MAP to its own vacuum line. The car then idled significantly better and allowed me to run three heat cycles to seat up the internals a bit. I did not get a recording of that because I accidentally had the cam corder on standby....:22:. Anyway, the mix was still way too rich, and fouled the plugs a bit. I will be making a few more adjustments this week, and installing a colder plug with a heat range of 8, which should be just right for my set up.

Here is the video....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EPBMJO1TGo


Ryan

Youtube that video. Very hard to see and very slow buffering.

I have now updated it to YouTube....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EPBMJO1TGo
 
Ryan, I don't know how I missed your startup! Must've been over in the sandbox without internet. Looks good M8; now the tuning fun starts!

I'll be interested to see if you experience any of the "cooling issues" others are supposedly having with TT V8 setups.

BTW, what did you do for radiator fans?
 
Ryan, I don't know how I missed your startup! Must've been over in the sandbox without internet. Looks good M8; now the tuning fun starts!

I'll be interested to see if you experience any of the "cooling issues" others are supposedly having with TT V8 setups.

BTW, what did you do for radiator fans?


John I did not experience any overheating while running the motor for about 30-45 minutes for the three heat cycles. It was also a very hot day that day in Florida. I am running Twin Zirgo fans with the polished aluminum shroud. They act as a puller, and are mounted on the Koyo radiator on the inside of the engine bay. The shroud basically covers the complete area of the radiator, and produces a higher net cooling effect. They produce approximately 3600 CFM if memory serves me clearly. I may yet get a pusher too, but only if it is necessary.

Thnaks for the props....

Ryan
 
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Great to hear about the cooling.

Would that be the AAP fan setup you're using? I have one of those but haven't mounted it. Have been running a honking great 16" SPAL in my OEM fan shroud for five years, and it performs OK in all but the hottest August days here in Houston.
 
Great to hear about the cooling.

Would that be the AAP fan setup you're using? I have one of those but haven't mounted it. Have been running a honking great 16" SPAL in my OEM fan shroud for five years, and it performs OK in all but the hottest August days here in Houston.

John that is correct. I am using the AAP set up with the aluminum shroud, not the plastuc shroud. Damned thing blows some serious air....

Ryan
 
Having to have someone else finish off the headlights as the original guy became less and less reliable. He got to the point that I had to threaten him with a lawsuit just to get him to respond, plus send a very nice CL Member over there 4 times to finally get my unfinished parts back. He did a portion of the headlights correctly. If he had paid attention to detail, and finished them up with quality work, they would have looked fantastic. They still will look fantastic, but I had the Carbon Fiber he laid on the inner housing removed, it just was not laid properly. The LED's were a mess, the wiring was horrendous as well. That is all removed and cleaned up. Going a different way with the LED's now, much cleaner, and should be more reliable. Also much less wiring.

Anyway, I have posted up a pic of the inner housings so you can see how the lights will look like. They are in primer grey right now, but will be in a matching automotive grade high gloss black paint when completed.

As you can see, the massive blinker has been done away with, a small amber strip has been installed for the blinker (but you cannot see that strip in the pic) with individual LED's installed behind the amber strip.

The dividing section that separated the blinker from the inside of the headlight has also been removed so that the light will only have one complete compartment filling the whole chamber of the light, instead of creating 2 separate chambers as the OEM light was designed.

A secondary projector has been custom fabricated to house the city light. It will consist of 1 PIAA Super White LED bulb to fit the stock housing mount. The front of the projector will have a projector lens to match and compliment the primary HID lens.

Everything will be closed up with a clear lens cover to completely modernize the look of the light. Should turn out pretty good when completed.

Driver side with the HID retrofit in place:
IMG00047.jpg

Passenger side:
IMG00048.jpg

Keep in mind these are cell phone pics, so they are not the best quality or lighting, but you get the idea....

Ryan
 
OK, making progress.

The brakes are now bled and there are no leaks.

The Iridium plugs are gapped and installed.

The Base fule setting has been adjusted to lean it out a bit as the car idled at 8 on the gauge.

I have the 20" iForged wheels test fit on the car and they clear the big brakes and look fantastic. Lips come right to the edges of the wheel wells.

Tires are being ordered (Falkens), fantastic tires.

The fuel pumps have been rewired to the Autronic SM4 so it will control them.
Each one is on a separate pin, so I have set 1 up as a primary, and the second to come on at 10 lbs of boost.

I will finish up rewiring the Innovate Lambda unit into the Autronic SM4 for accurate tuning this weekend.

The faceplate for the gauge pod was redone in matching burlwood, and is being reinstalled this weekend back into the car.

Just about ready to put the interior back in the car.

I will keep you posted.

Face plate made of real Burlwood:
iForgedandWilwood007.jpg

iForged Classic 20"x8.5" with Willwood custom Big Brake Front Wheel:
iForgedandWilwood001.jpg

iForged Classic 20"x10" with Willwood custom Big Brake Rear Wheel:
iForgedandWilwood003.jpg

Close up of iForged Classic with Willwood custom Big Brake Rear Wheel:
iForgedandWilwood012.jpg

Perfect flush fitment to the edge of the rear wheel well:
iForgedandWilwood005.jpg

I bought these two-piece iForged wheels used, and with various curb rash and they were very dirty. I was told they were high polished, that was incorrect. They were chromed on both the face and the lips. I sent them out to be refurbished, I had the curb rash repaired, the chrome removed from the lips only, and the rest of each wheel was thoroughly cleaned and the lips professionally polished. Thanks to David from Like Chrome Polishing in Orlando for cleaning and polishing the wheels, he restored them to almost new again. Thanks also to Olympits for repairing the curb rash on the wheels.

Notice the fitment of the wheels. The front and rear wheels fit to the edge of the wheel wells. Perfect flush fitment. They also clear the Wilwood Big Brakes with no spacers needed.

Ryan
 
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Ryan I feel your pain on the wheel experience. I bought my HRE's used from a "reputable" long time Supra owner on SF. They were represented to be in excellent condition with no known damage or defects and nearly new Yoko tires on the rear and perhaps 60% tread remaining on the front.

After they arrived, we found a rear tire with a sidewall bubble, another with a slit in it, plus both fronts were cupped, and none of them would balance properly. I gave them a try anyway, and the car was undriveable with them.

Sent the rims to HRE to find out what was wrong and they said 7 out of 8 of the halves were bent/warped and out of spec and needed to be replaced. So I replaced them all, had the centers repolished, and put new tires on also. Fortunately their service manager was a true gentleman and cut me a deal after I told him the story. Even with that, I've still got well over the list price for a set of new ones, in these now, so it's a good thing I really like them and don't plan to sell them!

Never did get any satisfaction out of the jerk from SF, but at least he received a very negative iTrader feedback from me. I thought about sending him the junk old half rims and tires by FedEx next day priority, collect, which I figure would have cost him around $600, but FedEx refused to accept them :mad:

Anyway, hope you'll see some light (and noise!) at the end of the tunnel soon!
 
This is an update on the project as I am counting down to the FL2K10, and have every intention of debuting my car there. See the progress below. Know that all the critical wiring is completed. It took me longer than I anticipated, especially with the unexpected cold weather we had in Florida. Gonna be tuning this week, I fully expect.

OK, making progress.
  • Tires are being ordered (Falkens), fantastic tires. Checking on fitment on the rear, hoping to run 285x25Rx20 in the rear, and will be running 245x25Rx20 in the front. AS soon as I measure and confirm the offset in the rear, I can determine if the 285's will clear my fender well. If not, I will have to change to a smaller size.
  • The fuel pumps have been rewired to the Autronic SM4 so it will control them. Each one is on a separate pin, so I have set 1 up as a primary, and the second to come on at 10 lbs of boost. DONE
  • I will finish up rewiring the Innovate Lambda unit into the Autronic SM4 for accurate tuning this weekend. DONE
  • The faceplate for the gauge pod was redone in matching burlwood, and is being reinstalled this weekend back into the car. I need to wet sand and buff the plate then I install it this week.
  • Just about ready to put the interior back in the car. This week.
  • I need to shim the caliper just a tad in the driver front wheel. A little too much grab.
  • Still need to hook up the wiring to the fogs, and complete my headlight project.
  • Still need to install the hood and the front bumper.
  • Still need to reconnect the 6 front speakers.
I will keep you posted.


Ryan

Making lots of progress.

Ryan
 
I found a used falken FK 452 size 285x30x20 at Rubens Tire in Orlando. They were kind enough to loan it to me for test fitment only, and they only charged me for mounting the tire to my wheel. Here are a few pics of how it looks on the car with the wheel in approximately the stance and position I will run it.

iForgedandFalken016.jpg

iForgedandFalken017.jpg

iForgedandFalken018.jpg

iForgedandFalken026.jpg

iForgedandFalken020.jpg

Much more to come in the next many days....

Ryan
 
I found another surprise last night. It is in the shift points not matching up with the PCS TCU Digital shift inputs, so even though the transmission is working, the gears are not matching what gear the TCU shows it is in. I have to ohm out each one, and see if there is a problem and where. This could be a delay which could keep me from making it to the FL2K10.

Shouldn't be too bad, I hope....:confused::rolleyes:

Ryan
 
The devil is always in the details, isn't it Ryan?

Hang in there.

Yes it is John. At least I check to be sure....:D

BTW, I started up the motor again. Enzo helped me a little with leaning out the mix on idle. It is still too rich, AFR read 12. Much better than 8. The motor sounded significantly better, no diesel sound this time. Also, the throttle response was unbelievably improved....instant response, best I have ever heard from this car. It is getting a bit more exciting!!

Ryan
 
Hip, Hip, Hooray!! The transmission wiring to the PCS TCU is completed, and fixed. I need to trace a vacuum leak, and correct that, and then I should be ready to tune.I would say within the next couple of weeks! It is looking good, and getting real close.

Thanks to Dan Osypian for being right there in the trenches with me and helping me to get this right, and completed!! Also, thanks to the phenomenal customer support from Dan at PCS....Second to none! First rate organization. Thanks also to Dr. Tweak!!

Ryan
 
Gang, I traced the vacuum leak tonight, and ran a temporary test to determine if it was indeed the culprit, and it was. The SM4 has its own built in MAP sensor, and it strongly recommends the hose from the sensor on the SM4 be dedicated only to the SM4, and connected to the intake. It was not hooked up that way. The Defi Boost gauge and the Greddy Prefec B were T connected to the same hose....an absolute problem set up like this. The reason I knew I had a vacuum leak was that my pressure readings never changed when I started and ran the car....It stayed at 100 kpa. So, I ran a temporary test hose from the SM4 to the intake, then plugged the hose to the gauge so it would not leak either, and then started the car. Sure enough, the kpa dropped down to 58-60 while the engine was running. So, that was the problem. Idle is still rich at 11.4, but I am in contact with Ian Hamwood from Autronic, and Enzo from New York. Phenomenal support from these guys!! We will get this adjusted more when we tune. Motor sounds much, much better now, and the throttle response is instant.

Transnission shifts in all gears. getting closer....

I have more of the engine put together, so I thought I would post a few pics of the engine bay, as this is a little closer to what it will look like when I have it completed. I also took a few pics of the iForged wheel again. a little better lighting.

enginebaycomplete014.jpg

enginebaycomplete015.jpg

enginebaycomplete009.jpg

enginebaycomplete012.jpg

enginebaycomplete010.jpg

More to come....

Ryan
 
My SM4 stand alone is currently in New York at Enzo Racing being reflashed for all the latest updates, software and features from Autronic. Enzo has also been an Autronic Dealer for the last 10 years or so, and knows the unit like the back of his hand. he loves it, and highly recommends it for many reasons. He also tunes and bubilds custom fabricated performance set ups. Anyway, he is tweaking my SM4, and after this I will have the all important speed sensor based traction control, like what Race Logic builds and sells for about $1400. I sure saved a ton of money on this one!!

Here are a few pics of my headlights which are near completion. These are only mocked up and held in place with some double-sided masking tape, so do not be concerned about the unevenness of the LED's. Everything will be in it's place upon completion.

IMG00006.jpg

IMG00007.jpg

IMG00008.jpg

IMG00010.jpg

IMG00009.jpg

Stay tuned....

Ryan
 


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