Under bonnet air temps

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yer i saw some fans today off new ford and off old ford

the early ford ones i think au were 600 bucks new
what a rip off
 
its ok
i know the guys at sss automotive

they always help me out when i need stuff

i think i have 90mm clearance most places

but in one spot the section where the clutch fan bolted on
sticks out bit more

ill double check it today

the storm woke me up to early

and theres the all emerican car show at castle hill today

so im waiting for day to clear up and get things done
 
Jim,

I paid $300.00 at the local Ford Dealer. No discount just walked in off the street.

If the old fan hub is in the way take it off.

If you look at the belt run you can delete the whole assembly. Instead of taking the bet around the hub like an idler just run it from the crank straight to the airco compressor up over the top idler etc. You'll need a shorter belt but you'll save a minimum20mm and you can the fit your Ford fans. The only reason the belt goes around there fan hub is to power the fan.
 
ok thanks for that info zuffen

ill do more research and chase up a shorter belt if possible

then chase up some ford thermos

if it still overheats
 
Jim,

Bear in mind you'll end up with less wrap on the crank pulley but you would still have close to 150degrees which should be adaquate.
 
well on the highway where no matter what fans u have they dont work after 80 or so kms

doin 120 on the highway didnt cool the car down
so now im gettin a custom 3 row radiator made up
someone was right when they said the sr20t one might be too thin

but ill see what happens

maybe the thermos were ok just not enough water capacity in the radiator

i will know next week

i have to goto brisbane next tues for a job so im flying there and back in a day
after that i can fix my car

i pulled the water pump out what a job
it was in good nick

then i found out hotw to check yr water pump by just removin thrmostat housing
 
Hmmm, I'm runnning a standard 5MGE 1986 Cressida radiator, only 2 row, plastic top and bottom tanks, and I have NO cooling issues after I had it cleaned.

Even sitting on the dyno @ 6000rpm for a few mins the temp stayed nice.

When the twin AU thermo's kick in, they stay on for about 30secs before they turn off (on at 94, off at 84ish).
But it takes a good minute from sitting at a set of lights for them to turn on.
Once I'm moving they don't come on again until I stop for a good minute.
I'm running the standard thermostat too, 88deg?


My point of all this is that I doubt my radiator is much, if any, bigger than yours.
Unless flow through the front of your car is crap.
I've also got custom extractors which both raise the under bonnet temps, and create more restriction for outgoing air.
 
i dont kno wwhats wrong with my car

im sure the cressida radiator has more water capacity than my rad

and i can rule out it being the thermo fans at the moment cause at highway speeds it stilll wont cool

the only reason i know mine is overheating is by the temp on the scanner and the pinging

and before summer time my thermos would start and stop normally

but now its different

what i do know is toyota temp gauges are funny they sit in middle then if they start to overheat they dont move alot

so on the actual temp gauge it doesnt read very hot but in reallity it is hot

without puttin my scanner on another 1uz i wont know if mine i snormal

cause the scanner reads a diff temp to the actual temp in the radiator and the temp gauge
 
Toyota guages definately read odd.

I know mine sits in the middle from about 80degs to about 96 or higher.

To get it to move up, I turned the thermo's off, and watched the microtech readout.
It went to 98 before the temp guage had even moved, and by the time it hit 100deg, the temp guage had gone from middle, to over 3/4.
I then turned the thermo fans on, and within 10 seconds, the guage was back to normal, but the microtech readout took a good 45-60 sec to drop back to 84degree.

But, when I had the old thermo on there, it would get hot sitting at lights, and then take a good 30secs of driving to get back to normal
But even when the ecu readout would have been around the 100 mark, I didnt see any lack of performance, or any knocking.

You could just be experiencing some wierd factory ecu thing.
 
ill have to see how mine feels at 100 degrees

my scanner used to read 112 to 115 degrees on a hot day the prob is that it doesnt cool back down on a clear drive

and everything around the engine and even the panels inside the engine bay get sooo hot

so i gues its like an oven under there and when the engine cant expell the heat it makes it worse

if the temps did go up but then came down it would not exagarate the problem

anyway ill let u all know mid next week if i fixed the prob

i have 2 thermos to fit or one massive thermo to fit

not to sure which one ill use i might take them all the the radiator mob

and see what they say
 
Damn, 112 degrees!! I've never seen mine that hot.
Who knows what the upper limit off the microtech is, but the temp/timing compensation map goes up to 125ish, so I presume the ecu can read above 100degC

Mine engine bay gets damn hot under the bonnet too.

I also notice that when the coolant was down about 50ml, the temp woulda creep up under load.
Topped up the coolant and it was cool again.
 
Sideshow, that overheating problem you got sure would be a piss off.
I have had my coolant temps up to 110-120c doing burnouts, & yes i get some pretty bad preignition at those temp's. Where i am fortunate is, i only have to let my engine idle for a couple minutes & the temps back to 90c.
My cooling system consists of, a 3 core Centura radiator (they are quite a big rad to) & 2 factory toyota corolla? electric fans (about 12" ) in a draw through setup.
My engine bay is fairly large, but i don't think the air flow would be that great.
None of this realy helps you though.
Just a thought, hows your tune? If it's to lean this could help produce heat.
Hope you get it sorted soon.
 


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