Under bonnet air temps

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Zuffen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
5,632
Location
Sydney, Australia
I read an article in Auto Speed (March 2002 edition) that used a differential air temp gauge to look at air temps under the bonnet.

The test was on a stock LS400 (how convenient!) and showed that the temp difference between the ambient temp and the temp in the entrance to the over the radiator air intake to be 1degrees Celsius (all temps will be Celsius) when being driven and 3 degrees C when idling.

By comparison the under bonnet temp (where your average pod would draw) was 8 degrees hotter even when driving at 120kmh! When idling the temp rose to be 40 degrees hotter than ambient. The rate of rise was 3-4 degrees per second when idling.

When climbing a steep hill the under bonnet temp roe by 30 degrees. This all indicates a CAI will work wonders for your engine.

The test showed that under bonnet temps did not drop all that quickly when the car started moving. This tells us that a pod equipped car is sucking very hot air at the traffic light Grand Prix.

Further testing was done with a sensor inside the air-box. The temp was 4 degrees hotter in the air-box than at the inlet. This difference would rise to 12 degrees when the car stopped. The temp dropped quite quickly when the throttle was opened as cooler air entered the air-box. Conversely lifting off the throttle caused a rise in the air-box temp. Heat soak would no doubt keep the air warmer than it could be for quite a while. Does this mean if you have pre-ignition you shouldn’t back off as the inlet temp rises which will make it worse (lol).

The long and the short of this is it’s worth shielding your air-box and inlet pipes, throttle body and AFM from the heat of the engine bay in addition to feeding it the coldest air you can find if you want ultimate performance your engine can give.

Splitting hairs, being pedantic? I don’t know with every 1 degree in intake air temp we lose horsepower and push our engines closer to detonation. If you can knock 10 degrees (Celsius remember) off the air temp how many horsepower is that worth. Think of the benefit on intercooled engines. You could be 10 degrees ahead in the cooling stakes if you set your engine bay up right.

I’M lucky my air-box is totally external to the engine bay and runs a forward facing inlet without any bodywork in front of it. A bell-mouth would no doubt improve its airflow and extract the last bit from the engine.
 
Exactly why I hate my pod filter.

Have you got pics of your setup Zuffen?

I am about to get twin 3" snorkels made up for my truck but am still stumped with what to do for an airbox.

One thought I had was to mount some filters on the end of the snorkels (3" cylinder pod type), but I don't think it would be happy in the rain. I guess the sunlight would also degrade the filters quite quickly.
 
I think this is why most try to install their pods outside of the engine bay with a bypass to stave off water should they encounter rain or puddles of water...

Ryan
 
Yeah, whats written above is pretty much spot on for what I get.

On a 25-28ish degree day, my manifold air temps are about 65degC at traffic lights.

Get on to the open highway, and it will drop.

At about 100kph, its down to 30-35degrees, and dropping.

This is with one airbox sucking cold air, and one pod filter sucking engine bay air.

I am yet to test it with 2 cold air boxes.
 
Twisty,

I'll post a shot of my airbox in the next day or so.

Beware of using snorkels. They rob you of horsepower due to surface friction.

One answer to your filter problem is to run a Donaldson turbo filter on top of your snorkels but I think they would be too easilly torn off.

You need to think about snorkels on a petrol engine. It isn't go to operate under water like a diesel, A good filter mounted high in the engine bay would be best. Visit a truck wrecker and see what you can find. They tend to have 3" or bigger aircleaners on trucks and they are cheap and the elements are designed to last forever.
 
as i said in my other post

i ended up fittin a car scanner on my 1uz

it said the temp at the coolant sensor which is at back of block got up to 117 degrees celcius

i fitted better radiator and temps are around 98 to 104 on a hot day

the prob with the 1uz is its aluminium and it get heat soak so easily

what i found is when radiator is at 84 degrees the coolant temp reads 92

but on a hot day i recon the back would getmuch hotter even though the radiator is warm

i have raised the back of my bonnet to get abit more hot air out
and better air flow

what i have found is car goes much better when engine has just been started and under 25% on temp gauge

theres heaps u can do but is it worth it on an every day car
 
Twisty,

I've seen the Donaldson Pre cleaner (it's a clear plastic bowl and the air spins around and centrafugal force separates the dust from the air) used on top of snorkels.

I'm no expert on the optimum size.

Perhaps JBrady has some suggestions?
 
Spacing the back of your bonnett up about 10mm will drop the under bonnett temp heaps cause hot air rises, same as with a backwards bonnett scoop. Doing either of these is the best way to get hot air out from under the bonnett as the air comes in the front and can then blow over the motor and straight out again, or if just idoling as I said before hot air rises.
 
i have spaced my bonnet ut i hate it cause i look like a try hard wanker in those lil *** cars

hehe
 
LOL have you removed the rubber seal across the back? Haven`t had a good look as my bonnett isn`t on but I think with removing that You might get away with 5 to 8mm spaces.

How much differance do you think it made?
 
well i had overheating probs
even though my temp in rad was ok the temp in back of block was hi

it still pinged badly on a hot day so think it didnt help alot

yes the rubber strip was gone too

if it doesnt ping with new radiator ill put bonnet back to normal and see how it goes

removin just the rubber strip only gives u few mm

and the bonnet now flexes bit more in the middle so i hope to put it all back to standard
 
Guts said:
Spacing the back of your bonnett up about 10mm will drop the under bonnett temp heaps cause hot air rises, same as with a backwards bonnett scoop. Doing either of these is the best way to get hot air out from under the bonnett as the air comes in the front and can then blow over the motor and straight out again, or if just idoling as I said before hot air rises.
I don't think this will work when on the move.

It's not fashionable but really air scoops should face BACKWARDS towards the windshield/screen. this is because this is a high pressure point as air is forced up over the glass and actually circulates in a high pressure ball before going over the roof.

One muscle car from the 60's (can't remember which) actually had the scoop open at the front and back to help a ram air effect into the car. It worked but didn't look 'right' so was never widely adopted.

What you really want is side vents Cobra style ( and now started to be utilised mainstream ie Range Rover ) as properly vented will draw masses of air out from the engine bay. Also ( again not sexy ) wrap the headers in heat reflective tape as this will make an immediate change.

Cheers
Mark
 
think of the air going in threw the radiator and the air coming in from under the car, its now got somewhere to go instead of just getting trapped in there, all this will change the air circulating at the bottom of the windscreen, you only have to drive a car that has the bonnett spaced up when it rainging and no ac on, the windscreen doesn`t fog up as the heat coming out from the engine bay is keeping it fog warm just like blowing hot air on it from the heater.

This is a very popular way of helping with engine cooling in the 4x4ing sceen because it works.
 
If you look at 80's Brock Commodores (for those O/s one of Aistralias great sedan drivers) they had rear facin scoops.

Yes they work but look wrong.

The big problem is not getting air in it's getting it out.



I run a 3"gap at the rear of my bonnet. What overheating?
 
What about running a full-length plastic undertray with a small, downwards-facing lip at the back, such that it creates a high-pressure zone above, and a low-pressure zone beneath. This way, air gets sucked through the engine bay and out under the car...Although what it might do the car's high-speed handling...???
 


Top