serious help guys

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

PR_SC400

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PA
I looking for the best route to make the sc a threat at the strip I practically got my ass handed to me by everything except a the all motor hondas.

I know most of you will say turbo, nos or sc but I need a good platform to start out with, the car is down till its ready. You guys will say search and I will say I have, really did and almost every thread I come by says search, search, search with no actual straight forward answers even though I did find spf's build thread and stevechumos threads but cant decide on the platform so please let me pick your brains for a bit and ill buy you all beer sometime. :D

So far I've read mostly about 1/2 uz hybrids, and the 1uz in general. I'm leaning more towards more displacement but want to keep it unique so I was pondering about stroking a 96+ vvti 1uz as much as 1L if possible, a 1/2 uz hybrid or just a straight out 2uz. Money isn't really a factor I put in enough hours at work but I still want to keep it within reason because if I'm looking into 10k+ for my goal of 400-500bhp I might as well go all out and fit a 20b in there.

If anyone has any input or info on any of the two options please contribute.

I would greatly appreciate it!
 
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Bang 4 buck forced induction is king..
Other than machining stroking / sleeving engine..
It gets expensive very quick...
Cams, heads with strong rotating assembly...
What prices and availability of latter model larger capacity engines there ???
 
Like I said my budget is around 10k and yes forced induction was part of the plan I just cant choose which engine to start with. I've read of guys making good numbers on the 1uz but yet I'm look for more displacement which leaves me with the hybrid swap or just the plain old 2 uz with a built built bottom. Just looking for some advice on which of the 3 would better suit my needs.
 
IMO the BEST thing is to use a completely stock pre-1996 1uzfe

Add a single turbo and good tuning and you should have reached your goals.

If for any reason the engine breaks... replacements are abundant and cheap.

Buy a second and fit with forged rods and pistons to get a 600+hp engine.

Get a third, heck get more. Port a set of heads... try them out.

These engines, pre-1996, are tough and extremely well made.

I wish someone would devise a good way to run the early short block with VVTi heads and intake manifold. That would make for a seriously powerful turbo combination using OEM parts.
 
IMO the BEST thing is to use a completely stock pre-1996 1uzfe

Add a single turbo and good tuning and you should have reached your goals.

If for any reason the engine breaks... replacements are abundant and cheap.

Buy a second and fit with forged rods and pistons to get a 600+hp engine.

Get a third, heck get more. Port a set of heads... try them out.

These engines, pre-1996, are tough and extremely well made.

I wish someone would devise a good way to run the early short block with VVTi heads and intake manifold. That would make for a seriously powerful turbo combination using OEM parts.

I have 3 of the pre 96 engines, 2 in cars, and one just in case.
like jbrady said they're cheap (sub$600) and abundant.
 
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IMO the BEST thing is to use a completely stock pre-1996 1uzfe

Add a single turbo and good tuning and you should have reached your goals.

If for any reason the engine breaks... replacements are abundant and cheap.

Buy a second and fit with forged rods and pistons to get a 600+hp engine.

Get a third, heck get more. Port a set of heads... try them out.

These engines, pre-1996, are tough and extremely well made.

I wish someone would devise a good way to run the early short block with VVTi heads and intake manifold. That would make for a seriously powerful turbo combination using OEM parts.
John is right on. 10K isn't that much to build a powerful NA motor. But 10K is enough for a good turbo system with rebuilt internals.
 
Turbo is an option but what about a root style s/c like the m112 or m90? I like they whine they make :D but not sure if they could make the power I want. Well probably not the m90 that's made for smaller displacement engines.

And what would it take to mount the vvti heads to an early block? Im guessing maybe different oil passages in the heads for the vvti? Cant be that much different from an ls/vtec. (Yes i was into Hondas at one point then I discovered the rotary)
 
I'd prefer to stay with non-VVTI for simplicity. I don't think a VVTI heads will work on non-VVTI bottom unless you'll pay a good amount of money to have a custom set of pistons that'll clear the valves and work properly. Then there won't be much left for rods, M112 SC setup, injectors, other parts, ecu and tune.

On the other hand, having built internals on non-VVTI and a M112 SC setup with other parts can be done for $10K if done right. You can probably run 12 psi with lower compression. Instant power.
 
Hmmmmmmmm what if we gave it a go with the vvti pistons? Would the early rods have different pin sizes then the vvti rods? Or maybe machine the non-vvti pistons? This is kinda interesting and I would be willing increase my budget for if I could get some good solid advice on how to make it work.

Im going to go pick up a spare engine on sat, maybe a set of vvti heads if I can find them in the salvage yard.
 
Ehhhhh ok? On top of that finding a tuner in my area that can setup the vvti on the standalone will also contribute to the NIGHTMARES I've read about soooo that kinda discouraged me from it so I might just got with the non-vvti 1/2 uz hybrid...

Also I've been meaning to ask when swapping a 2uz block over to the sc would I use the 1uz crank or 2uz crank??? Sorry for my ignorance I needed a break from the search function today. And could the factory trans hold up to that power if not how can I beef it up?
 


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