Twin Turbo UZ on stock ECU. What's it really like?

[cuh8er]

Hi guys,
My 1UZ 4WD needs a little more power and torque. Nothing stupid, just a little more grunt.
I was looking into a budget twin turbo build, not because I have limited funds, but because that's all I need.

My questions are not so much what turbos are a good choice, but moreso what will the thing drive like on the stock ECU, Injectors etc etc.

I have a 1UZ from a 1996 SC400 (I was told it was a 96, have no real way of knowing for sure) so was planning on running a maximum of 8psi. Stock everything, with an intercooler mounted ontop of the engine. No real space to front mount.

What will the stock ECU be like at 8psi? Will it run rich/lean? Still be reliable?

I was thinking a pair of these tucked down beside the block
http://otomoto.com.au/kkr/KKR300.html
I want boost to come on as soon as possible. From say 1500 odd rpm. Redline I would say will be around 5-5500rpm.

Can any gurus see any flaws in my plan? I will make the turbo manifolds myself, and just mod my 2.5" exhaust to suit the turbos.

Any info from those in the know would be awesome.

 

[XR8tt]

I would personally go for a EMS Stinger / Haltech E6K / Microtech etc to control engine management..
I like to have ECU [2 bar map]that reads and controls boost..
Seen too many engine detonate and destroy themselves..
Retarded timing and fitting an FMU is one bodgy way around proper tune..
Spend $600 on so - so tune or $1500 on a tune that can be controlled..
In any case a stronger fuel pump should be fitted.. Walbro 255 ...

Turbo's have various amounts of boost / power at low rpm!!
VERY, variable which makes bodgy tunes hard to get around..
Being a 96 vintage it MAY have the thinner rods ??
With load those turbo's would spool quite low..

 

[UZZ-TT]

SC400TT did it for a while...

 

[cuh8er]

SC400TT did it for a while...

Why only for a while? Did his engine pack it in?

Vehicle already has a bosch 044 fitted, and can easily fit a RRFPR. Basically just wanting to know if the stock ECU will do.

I need the car to be reliable as I don't want to get stuck out bush.

An extra 100 or so horsepower is all i'm needing, and i'll never want any more than that as I don't want to start breaking things....

 

[sideshow]

i dont understand people who try to turbo on std ecu
it will never ever be perfect
100 hp is a fair bit
try saving for an extra month
sell yourself on ebay do anything
all u need is 1000 bucks for a microtech
if u cant afford 1g then dont bolt turbos on it
do it properly cause if i had twin turbo 1uz u bet your big ass that i would be planting accelerator to the floor pretty regularly
and if u plan to run it on std ecu it will work but might hickup up hi
and im sure most poeple would easy wind that 8 psi up and up

so look at the long term project
dont buy turbos and put an aftermarket ecu first

if u want an etra 100 hp just bolt a 100hp fogger kit onto it

 

[XR8tt]

Yep !! PLENTY of ecu's under $1k ..
Go back a few years to E6K, stinger for example which was a good ECU years back..
On E bay etc they go for $300 or $400 with 2 bar map etc..
Yep same with Microtec !! Only set back with older ECU is you MAY have to run bank to bank, batch or semi sequential injection..
No big deal unless there's wild cam's etc.. Turbo cam's generally are NOT wild!!
At Least they have a MAP sensor that READS manifold pressure!!
Ignition needs to retard QUICK as boost / torque comes on !!
On turbo engines it arrives in masses esp on 4 valve pentroof engines with high compression!!!
Which definitely doesn't happen on an naturally aspirated engine !!

 

[stevechumo]

I don't recommend at all if you run 8 psi without any sort of fuel enrichment. You're running on the edge there. I'd say 5 psi on stock fuel setup is the most. Anything between 5-8 psi should have at least a 255 lph-hp fuel pump and a rising rate 12:1 FMU.

 

[XR8tt]

The main issue is the advance curve between N/A and forced..
There could EASY be 10* timing difference especially around peak torque !!
Enough to kill any engine.. You don't always hear detonation!! Until it's too late !!

 

[v8soarer_1991]

If you are on "limited" funds (like me) go supercharge and make a custom supercharger pully for 4 - 5psi later when you have installed it yourself.

With this kit everything is there, even you can modify it later down the track for more psi etc.

Also you want boost ASAP supercharger has boost from nearly idle (perfect).

• Terracharger M90 Positive Displacement Supercharger with bolt-on pulley
• Bullet High Flow Cast Intake Manifold with removable top plate
• Bullet High Flow Cast Rear Intake manifold
• Bypass Valve
• Idler Bearing with mount
• Supercharger snout support
• Engine and Supercharger 6PK Drive Belt
• Air intake hoses and adaptor
• Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator
• New gaskets, Nuts, bolts, hoses, O'rings and clamps
• Comprehensive Installation Instruction

No engine internal or ECU modifiactions are needed with this basic kit. As the Supercharger only runs 6.5 psi, the factory settings are satisfactory to gain an increase of up to 50%.


Kit price is $5950 for UZ31 Soarer and LS400

 

[XR8tt]

Good luck !!

 

[UZZ-TT]

It'd be good to see another TT, but if all you want is 100hp extra, just build the motor some... Just an idea, I wouldn't run a factory ECU...

 

[kc95sc400]

Just throwing this out there....

I'm supercharged, about 11psi, water meth for cooling. Have made 350rwhp on the dyno (traping at 106 making about 8.5 psi, intercooled without wm injection) estimate about 390 now (trapping 111-112) and, drum roll please, I'm on the stock ECU! And..........I have made well over 150 passes at various dragstrips!

But, I do have fuel control. Using the MaftPro.

Should also note that I've had the same basic combo for over two years now, daily driven, about 150k on the odometer, started boosting at about 106k.

KC

 

[spf_lexus]

Or buy a used vortech and a fish bracket for around $1000 and call it a day. With low boost you wont need to plumb and intercooler and you will be fine with stock everything at 5psi, no expensive blingin' ECU required. I know i'm stepping on toes but the dude just said he wants ONLY 100HP, so with this in mind I say keep it simple because simple. THE TRICK IS TO KEEP IT AT 5PSI!!!! thats the underlying message I think. With a full exhaust and 5psi I say eaaasssssy lol. Because yes a RRFMU isn't the best way, but it does work and if your goal is 100 extra horses I can see this working just fine. I ran my RRFMU with stock fuel pump from 175,000 to 210,000 miles and I never had any issues. I ran for a year with this setup and i was running 7psi, not 5.

used Vortech= $750
RRFMU=$200
FISH bracket=$250
Boost gauge=$50
Wideband=$250 (optional)


Or if your not interested in getting the hands dirty a fogger kit can dump a safe 100hp shot and is around $500 installed

I tuned by way of nose...I maxed my RRFMU till' I could smell loads of fuel after a WOT, then click back the ratio until I can "barely" smell the fuel. Pretty archaic but proved very reliable.

 

[XR8tt]

Correct but turbo's build boost anywhere..
In the "land down under".. Aftermarket or piggyback ECUs are quite cheap..
As said .. Keep power and boost conservative!!
An in line separate methanol injector before throttle body seems to work well at keeping intake temps down without intercooler on boost ..
Just need to make sure methanol container is kept full..
Plenty of Haltech E6K / EMS Stinger / Microtech ECUs on E Bay..