Project Thread Toyota Land Cruiser Turbo

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
John,
There're two types of superchargers. The one you've talked about is Root type, which gives you instant boost, because when the crank pulley turns, that's when you have boost. The other type of supercharger is Centrifugal, which usually gives more lag than turbo. Although this Centrifugal type is turned by the same belt concept, its structure and distant of air flow are different than the Root type. However, a good matching turbo setup will spool very quick. You can start to have boost as low as 1500 RPM. At 1500 RPM, it's like instant boost and you barely feel the lag.
 
Hey Steve, yes you are correct and I was talking in terms of the Root type supercharger setup, and the spool up time is very small on a good turbo setup as you mentioned, but when 4x4ing, pulling, climbing, getting out of a hairy situation, etc... 1500rpm may make a difference to some, I don't know.. This is what I am being told by the experts....I am still trying to learn about all the different types of turbo setups.... I completely understand the superchargers, and the turbo's I am getting their.....
 
Thanks for the replies

Concerning my turbo design. I am not looking for incredible gains-300hp from this 221 hp motor is all I am looking for. I did some great weld prep and am a good mig welder. I believe the welds are as good as they could be for a mig welder. I also did some weld testing on the weld els I used-I ground some test welds down to check for penetration and porosity and to make sure I could maximize penetration without having weld protrude into the exhaust cavity.
I was going to do a strait log design but thought this might flow a bit better. You may not be able to tell from the pic as the turbo in mock up is sitting too far out but the turbo will sit within a couple inches of the head itself.
Do you think the 2 port design I put together will flow better than a starit log? If I were to do it all over again I would just weld weldels together from each port to a cetral collector-those things are just too easy to put together and already come with that perfect little bevel

I dont know about the supercharger argument. The forum on this truck (ih8mud.com) is pretty conclusive that the turbo is better
 
i think it will work great man, i'm sure you'll spool that turbo pretty quick with that massive straight 6 and most big diesels i have seen spool big turbos with very strange log manfolds with the turbo at the end instead of the center, if it doesn't spool like you want you can always go back to the drawing board, anyway congrats on your experimentation and i bet you'll be happy with it.
 
another reason for my design is that the long head is aluminum promoting dissimilar thermal expansion. The oe exhaust header is a 2 piece design with a long "y" pipe connecting them and the 2 companies that make a turbo kit for this motor-safari (discontinued) and avo use a 2 piece log maniflod with a slip joint between them to allow for expansion. I figured that a 2 piece connected with the 2 runners may allow for a similar expansion. we will se if it works. Im still waiting on the stupid turbo flange to arrive.
 
cant move intercooler any more forward unfortunatly. notice the pass side of radiator is open in case i want to add extra electric fan.

question---I still havnt decided if I should put the Air flo meter before the turbo (just behind the K&N filter) or put it after turbo and intercooler (just before the trottle body). The only diff i can see is that if I put after the turbo and intercooler it will be reading the true temp of intake charge (hotter)
 
Dusty said:
question---I still havnt decided if I should put the Air flo meter before the turbo (just behind the K&N filter) or put it after turbo and intercooler (just before the trottle body). The only diff i can see is that if I put after the turbo and intercooler it will be reading the true temp of intake charge (hotter)
If you put the MAF before the turbo, then you won't have to worry about how it reads the temp. You can extend the MAF wires but you'll need to solder them very carefully. And if you put it after the intercooler, the MAF has certain limit, which I don't know how much because that depends on specific cars, so the ECU may pull the fuel/timing and throw a check light. Usually for low boost such as 5 or 6 psi, it shouldn't be a problem. But if you run higher boost, then a modified ECU is needed to over-ride this reading.
 
the turbo is a garrett t04e split housing 46trim .84ar turbine
and .70 ar compressor. oil only. I should have pics up soon as this project must be completed within next couple weeks.

question: the intake manifold has several vacume lines for various stuff. I have the egr worked out so it will go to the air intake pipe from the air cleaner-this will be under vacume. do I need to run all the other vacume lines to this same pipe?
 
AFA turboing a Toyota that uses an AFM, or MAF. Both pre & post compressor mountings have benefits.
I prefer post compressor mounting (Especially with AFM's) because you'll gain a little response, enrichment, and the temp sensor going crazy is not really a concern. I find Toyota ECU's do not rely on the IAT sensors for very much in their OEM tuning. If you don't believe this, check injector duration at a constant rpm while changing the output of the thermistor with a rheostat (pot).
They're inconsequential changes as far as I have ever seen. Many times, no changes is seen.
Pre compressor mountings will make it easier to get to, and potentially easier to seal up. On ECU's that do heavily rely on a temp sensor in the intake, you can avoid problems of that nature. (Again, I doubt it would pose a problem, I've never seen it pose a problem on a Toyota.)
It's also more common... If that makes you feel good. (Doesn't mean anything tho.)

question: the intake manifold has several vacuum lines for various stuff. I have the egr worked out so it will go to the air intake pipe from the air cleaner-this will be under vacuum. do I need to run all the other vacuum lines to this same pipe?
All PCV & Crankcase breather systems will kill you (at some point) if they see boost.
The *correct* want to route them is to leave your normal intake manifold (high vacuum) intact with a 1-way check valve so that they have vacuum, but are shielded from boost.
They also need to be T'd (before the check-valve) to pre-compressor intake so that during boost there is a minor intake vacuum.
(There is very little vacuum pre-throttle plate. The breather system doesn't need much, but it needs something.)

AFA other vacuum lines. Depending on what they are, the best way is to use a 1 way check valve, or a vacuum tank connected to the intake (No boost can enter the tank). Depending on what supply of vacuum a component needs. Assuming no leaks, both will provide a supply of vacuum. (The maximum vacuum sceen will be stored.)
Some items may not care.


AFA the EGR system, keep in mind the EGR system will present a pre-compressor exhaust leak on most OEM systems. Due to their manifold mounted location. This would be bad for good turbine spooling, and would create varrying boost consistency if the system is located pre-turbo.
There is also more exhaust back-pressure pre-turbine than there is intake manifold pressure. I would be worried about being at part throttle, having boost, yet having the EGR system activated.
Because of the high back-pressure, you would be getting a boatload of EGR flow. That would also effectively enrichen the mixture an unknown amount.


If you have to keep EGR for emessions, I would most likely devise a way to seal it completely, and shut it off at will. If not, I would ditch EGR completely. It only creates problems.
 
Toysrme

I love you man.
Ok concerning the PCV: I realy like the check valve idea. I may go with that in the future but I'm in a hurry and the safari turbo system just takes the pcv to pre compressor to take advantage of that little bit of vacume-Im going to go this route for now-there havn't been any complaints on the landcruiser forum of this system.

Now for the issue of EGR: the oe non-turbo 4.5L 1fzfe places the EGR port aprox 2 inches lateral and adjacent to the 6th exhaust port on the head. There is a small 1/2 inch semi-cylinder recess machined into the oe exhaust manifold flange to connect the 6th exhaust port to the EGR port. I have not yet used my air grinder to make a similar recess in my turbo flange. So you might say just fawk it and dont connect your 6th exhaust to your EGR. The problem is that the expensive toyota stainless gasket ($50) has been made to accomidate the EGR port-ie the gasket swings wide to go aroung the egr port. So unless there is some killer gasket out there that does not include the egr we must adress the problem (I dont want to run without a gasket and Im not going hunting for a diff gasket) Also I move back to california this summer and need this cruiser to pass smog. (I can probably get her past inspection without a problem-I knows the right people)
I see three options:
1. Port the turbo flange just like the oe non turbo flange and deal with it-I dont like this option. It has been suggested that the EGR port on this motor contributes to the notorious head gasket failure at the 6th cylinder

2. dont machine any recess into my turbo flange. This leaves that 1/32-1/16 inch gap between the 6th port and the egr port. WOULD THIS BE ENOUGH FOR THE EGR TO Work? AND WOULD THIS CAUSE THERMAL ISSUES?

3. just macine a small recess-like 3/16 cylinder in the turbo flange from the 6th port to the egr port
 
Dusty thanks for posting your project information with pic's on this thread. This thread will help many others to come in the future...Good posting from all....

PS. Just want to say that looks like one clean black cruiser from your pictures you are working on..Did you get the differential locking hub and moonroof options on that Cruiser of yours? Stereo and speakers upgrades are a must on these trucks as you well know....
 


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