questions about my sc400-T build

[poorsupra]

new to do list:
-tap oil sending unit for turbo feed
-figure out where to have my turbo drain
-mount I/C
-flip intake manifold to driverside
-start fabbing manifolds

questions that i have:
1) what do i do with the vacuum lines that go into the intake mainifold? p/s, fpr, iacv, etc. now that BOOST is in the picture.

2) now that i am going to flip my intake manifold, can you cut and extend the MAF wires without throwing off the sensors reading? not exactly sure.

 

[stevechumo]

...
2) now that i am going to flip my intake manifold, can you cut and extend the MAF wires without throwing off the sensors reading? not exactly sure.

Yeah, you can cut and extend the wires. Just make sure you solder them carefully without making bigger joints or kink at the solder. The wires need to be straight and smooth to eliminate any increase in resistance (OHM). Heat shrink is a must to protect the joints.

 

[poorsupra]

oh yeahhh! thanks steve!

 

[poorsupra]

turbo manifold bits and pieces



koyo mk4 radiator, alum shroud, radiator hardlines etc


dont worry all paint will be stripped off and final prepped before being coated/wrapped






moved the ac lines, and modified the rear most cyl tube on the headers to clear a 3" dp with .5" to clear in all directions.waiting on a 3"u bend from summit to finish the dp to midpipe section.


my DIY turbo brace, i have a tab on the WG dump tube flange also


a lil i/c fitting, i need to weld them all and fit the bov flange




ran out of daylight before i could flip the intake manny around. well as promised...pics.

 

[poorsupra]

soooo since no one looks at the FI build threads ill try to ask my question on here.

i have the oem injectors in my sc400 turbo set up right now, gotta pull all the injectors and put new seals/grommets. using a rising rate adjustable fmu. sooo should i ditch the cold start injector(unplug it), and pop in my 315cc injectors? or should i just keep em stock until i get a better means of tuning them?

 

[stevechumo]

soooo since no one looks at the FI build threads ill try to ask my question on here.

i have the oem injectors in my sc400 turbo set up right now, gotta pull all the injectors and put new seals/grommets. using a rising rate adjustable fmu. sooo should i ditch the cold start injector(unplug it), and pop in my 315cc injectors? or should i just keep em stock until i get a better means of tuning them?

If you put in 315cc injectors without tuning, your car will run rich and maybe stall. If you'll use piggyback ECU, then just leave the cold start injector there. But if you standalone ECU, then just remove it. In the case you'll use FMU, then just leave it there. Your stock ECU needs to see it, or it'll throw a CEL.

 

[poorsupra]

ok well i kept the stock injectors and cold start in. when i prime the fuel system ACC on, i hear a hiss out of the fmu, no fuel leaks but still a loss in pressure.

its NOW reading 60psi when primed. and 20psi at idle. i have the stock fpr still on the fuel rail with a banjo to -4an adapter, 10" -4an braided line, then mechanical fuel gauge, then the FMU in that order.

is the -4 braided line too small? i dont know why it would idle with 20psi only?! ***edit**** just read the installation instructions on the cartech website, i will try to mess with the center allen head adjustment screw and get my idle psi up to 40.****** doooh

new fuel filter BTW. i flipped my fuel rails L/R and kept the feed and return on their corresponding fuel rail.

 

[stevechumo]

Take a picture of your FMU setup. Maybe I can see something.

 

[poorsupra]

so i got the FMU rebuilt tonight, fixed my exhaust leaks. sounds a lot better, i finally got my 40psi fuel at idle, 90 primed. however i noticed what seems to be water leaking out of the v-band right at the turbo(hot side) def not fuel, its water/condensation.

on another note when i try to rev the motor it stumbles and hesitates. not a clean rev at all. MY GUESS is when i extended the TPS/MAF it threw off the readings the computer needs? i was told if i did a clean job(nice solder joints) that the resistance wouldnt be compromised. tps 12-18" extension, and the MAF is like 24-30" longer. only other wiring that was messed with was the secondary o2's....extended as well.

another theory is that the return line is too small and is causing a problem. i still need to get the gauges installed, theyre all bench tested and ready to go in, just got a new job and have been busy the past couple weeks.

please any insight is appreesh!

 

[George_R]

Resistance is not an issue unless you completely messed the soldering. Try starting with reading DTC's , try to temporarily disconnect your MAF for a rev test.

Highly recommend that you get some sort of scanner for more sophisticated guesses. I know at least one DIY option on this topic.

 

[5020Chris]

Poorsupra, nice work so far will be interesting to see how it goes !
Cheers Chris in UK

 

[poorsupra]

I have a scanner, however no CEL's.


Thank you Chris!

 

[stevechumo]

I extended the MAF wires and have no issues. I keep the soldering joints as small as the original wires along with tube shrinks over them.

That solid turbo mount to the chassis will cause vibration to the entire car. It's better to have some insulated or flex mounts.

 

[poorsupra]

not worried about the vibration. #becauseracecar

haha buuut i gotta wire my fans up and im on the road, after a final once over of course. not sure if the -4an line from my stock FPR to the FMU is gonna work well, but we will see.