Possible 1GZ project (R&D Phase)

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

redrocco

Member
Messages
160
Location
Rochester NY
Before I say anything about what I am thinking of trying let me just state that YES I am crazy, I know it it would be a huge money pit and it might not even work. Now on to the wackiness that is my brain.

I am considering trying to swap the oil pan or part of the oil pan from a RB26DETT on to the 1GZ-FE. If I remember correctly at least 1 1GZ has been mated to the V160 from a MK4 supra. The RB26DETT also used a version of the V160, a all wheel drive version. I am thinking if the oil pans are close enough in length to be modded to fit or mated together it could be done. If I then added a mega squirt 3 and a pair of turbos then the result would be 1GZ-FETT 6 speed AWD. Possible - maybe, crazy - definitely, drooltastic - Hells yeah.

To do this I would need the complete drive train from a R32, R33, or R34 skyline. The engine, transmision, front and rear sub frames. Basically a front cut with rear sub frame parts. This can be had for between $4,500 and $10,000 USD depending on year, model, mileage EXT.

I would also need a 1GZ engine with bell housing. Having the harness might come in handy but it would be getting stand alone management so I will have to redo the harness for how ever I set it up. I have seen the full 1GZ with bell housing, transmission, harness, both ECUs and other extra bits for sale in the USA for under $5000.

So I would need $10,000 to $12,000 in parts just to even get started putting it together. So this may or may not even happen and if it does it wouldn't be over night. How ever if someone with a 1GZ could take some high res pictures of the oil pan and the bottom of the block and take some
Measurements of it various lengths heights and widths and post the up. I could get the Measurements from a RB26DETT oil pan to compare the two and see if there even close to the same size.
 
as long as you have the bellhousing with the standard asin 6 bolt automatic pattern, you can use just about any of the adaptor plates that are out there for the 1uz.
There's actually more than just toyotas that use the 1uz adaptor plate, they'll work on some chrystler and gm products, and some mitsubishi's, also volvo's, and a few models of bimmers also. and on the toyota side the 1uz adaptor plates work on anything toyota with an rwd automatic transmission.
 
the v160 and rb getrag are two different beasts, the chance of the rb oil pan even remotely fitting the 1gz are very remote, but chopping and rewelding the 2 of them together is a better option.
seriously though i think your in dream land, even with 50-60k thrown at it, the chance of completion is less than me running for the nigerian presidency.
start small and go from there.
even a manual 1gz is a monumental task
 
I was thinking that chopping the diff section out of the RB26 oil pan and then welding it in to the 1GZ pan or building a new pan for the 1GZ might be easyer in the long run then trying to use the hole RB pan. That's not that bid of deal to make. It would be nice to keep the front diff the same distance from the trans as it was on the RB. But shorting or replaceing its drive shaft is nothing major. The R32 awd 5 speed transmissions are real cheep. Can get one shipped to me for under $300. The RB oil pans can be had for about the same. Would need more of the skyline parts later during install into the car but for mock ups and most of the fab the rest of the skyline parts can wate. That leaves the 1GZ, I have seen a hole swap for just under $5000, however all I would realy need is the engine. If I could find just the engine and maby the b the ellhouseing as that would make fabing the adapter plate a little easier. I cut harness would be nice but unessary as the few connectors that I would need for the mega squirt 3 could be had at the junk yard.

If I could find just a 1gz engine for around $2000 the cost for the parts to get the engine and tranny setup would not be that bad.

$2000 - 1GZ
$300 - RB oil pan
$500 - RB 5 speed
$500 - spec stage 3 clutch
$100- material for adapter plate
$600 - mega squirt 3
$100 - 6061 for intake
$250 - 100MM or larger 5.0 mustang TTB
$100 - 6061 for custom oil pan
$150 - cromoly round for flywheel
$250 - COP coils and wireing to make harness
$50 - 6 more 7MGTE injectors
$500 - random crap I didn't think of

Rough total is $5400

I would still need the $5000 R32 complete drive train package but I would be able to sell the complete RB26dett engine, uncut harness and ECU and maby get around $2000 back.
I my opinion that's not an unreasonable price for what it would be. Turbos and all there related crap would probbly come after I got the hole mess actuly in a car and running. I was thinking of a SC400 shell as it should have a bit more room then the MK3 supra but I also have a 1973 dodge charger sitting in my driveway that might be a fun and roomy place for a 1GZ to call home.
 
I also have the advantage of working in a machine shop/ fabrication plant of over 300,000 square feet and 300 employes. I am one of two night shift machine repair technicians and I have in the past worked as a machineist for over 7 years. There's only around 40 operators on night shift so I wind up with a day or to each week with not much to do. I find crazy fab stuff like what I am perposing fun and a intersting chalange. More so if there people saying "it can't be done". I love those kinds of puzzles, more then one of my projects over the years started as jokes with my friends. We are just hanging out and talking crap and some one says " what if we did ____ to this and then bolted on ____ and then stuck it in _____" and some times im "What if we DID".

Body work, paint, and that type of work on the other hand scares the crap out of me. I just don't quite get it. When I see the work people do on hear in those parts of the car world I can't begin to understand how they did it. I have the time and space and machines and materials to do almost all my own fabrication wich makes things a ton cheeper to build. I have no doubt if some one were to drop a car at shop and ask for this that the +$50k price would be right on.

This Idea is still in the "What if" and "well just maby" phase. I think it may be worth giving it a try. I allways am open to input and suggestions as other people can say just the right thing at the right time to solve a problem I've been stuck on for weeks. And in all honesty this fourm has some of the most experienced and knolageable car people I've found. I bet 10 years ago people would never beleave some of the things that have been done one hear. So let's please all try to keep open minds, shits more fun that way.
sorry y'all for the long ass post.
 
What about modifying a 4wd 1uz sump? I don't know dimensionally how they compare to a 1uz but they look similar in design from what i have seen?
 
I have not delt to much with the 4WD Toyota truck stuff. As far as I have seen the trucks had a seprate front axle. If there was a version that had the front diff built into the engines oil pan what was it in? Do you have any pics, maybe its something we diden't get over hear.
 
I just happened to look on yahoo auctions japan and search for GZG50and a seller named nobuhide7777 has a1gzfe engine with flex plat and harness (just what I would need) for around $700 USD. As far as what it would cost to get it hear and how I would even do that I have no idea. But there are 1GZ engines out there cheep.
 
Looks like I found my 1GZ. I finaly was able to get ahold of a dude who has one for sale less than 3 hours from where I live. Hole package, engine, harness, ECUs, trans, mafs EXT. If every thing gos well I will be picking it up in the next few weeks.
 
there's another one here on the west coast that's for sale with the r154 and adaptor.
His username on her is sniper, but I don't think he comes on here any more. But if you're interested I can pass along his phnoe # and e-mail address.
 
Well I will be picking up my 1GZ-FE tomarow after noon. Can't wate to get it home and start checking it out. I have all ready started makeing a new flywheel for it and reading up on the new mega squirt 3. I have been doing lots of reaserch into my idea for swapping in honda B16A rods and pistons and its looking very promising.
 
B16a rods & pistons

That's cool you're looking at different lower end components. Did you find rod big end dimensions for the 1GZ? I can't find that or crank throw dimensions information anywhere.

I think this is a fun idea. I was thinking of a similarish idea that used the R32/33 drivetrain, and I was going to dry sump the motor and close up the hole on the front diff and run them as two separate parts.

Looking forward to pics.
 
I have been looking more into using Honda B16A rods and pistons and I looks like it should work. It would require grinding 0.127 off the rod journals with possibly a .010 offset grind in towards the crank. I can have the guys at Rochester steel treating re case harden the journals and possibly cryo the whole crank. If the Honda rods are two wide they can be ground down and if they are two narrow I will use the piston guided rod technique to keep the rods from walking. It seams that this kinda thing was done a lot in the old muscle car days before you could buy any part you wanted from the store. Replacing the crap rods in your engine with the "hot" rods from a different engine. Hear are the measurements I have found so far.


1GZ-FE

CON ROD LITTLE END DIAMETER - 21.07MM .8295"
CON ROD BIG END DIAMETER WITHOUT BEARING - 51.20MM 2.0157"
CON ROD LENGTH CENTER TO CENTER - 133.875MM 5.2707"
CRANK BIG END BEARING DIAMETER - 48.0MM 1.8898"
CRANK MAIN BEARING DIAMETER - 66.8MM 2.6299"


Honda B16A, B16A1,

DIMENSIONS
length: 5.290 in.
rod journal: 1.771 in.
housing bore: 1.8900 in.
pin size: 0.826 in.
big end width: 0.9350 in.
pin end width: 0.7850 in.
thickness above pin: 0.200 in.
typical weight: 525g
 
Well I got my 1GZ home on Saturday and plan on starting to get into it this weekend. In stock form that has to be one of the least attractive looking engines I have ever seen. I have seen aluminum blocks get polished up and sent out for electroless nickle plateing before so that's an option. Once all the extra bits get removed and the intake gets modified for boost and polished it should look much nicer. I am planning on posting as meny specs, mesurements and OEM part numbers as I can as well as all the mods that I do. I am planning on bolting up a spare R154 tranny and sicking it into my 1973 dodge charger untill I get the bugs worked out and buy a v160 or skyline R34 transmission. At that piont its getting swaped into a diffrent car. My favorite ones so far would be 1973 celica GT, 1975-1978 datsun 280 or a MK3 supra but a T-bucket hotrod or monster trike would be fun to. More pics comeing this weekend.
 


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