Oil Pump

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi All.
What do you need to do to remove the oil pump from a 1UZ-FE none VVTI, I have a dry sump kit going on and was not sure what can be removed from it .

Alan

 

[cribbj]

Alan, you should be able to take out these two gerotor gears and put the cover back on and that'll do it.

My only concern then would be getting a bit of lubrication to the front main seal, since presumably with your dry sump setup there won't be any oil going through that cavity in the future?

I suppose you could even leave the oil pump cover off, and hope the FMS would get a bit of oil mist or splashed lubrication.

 

[Alan Whitaker]

Great picture, now I see what there is before pulling it down.
I am going to run the engine for a month or two before fitting the dry sump. I have got some piston squirts from a old project so should be able to mod one to squirt a bit of oil into the seal.

Many Thanks for the picture.
Alan

 

[BlackUZZ31]

some background info would be good...

what application is this for?

how many stage is your external pump?

 

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi,
Its in a 980 Kg TVR, I have twin turbo's to go on , I am just ready to fab the manifolds as soon as I repair my tig, hope to run about 350 hp max as I am keeping the auto box. New ECU and Trans ECU as soon as I decide which ones to get. Upgrades to come i.e. stronger rods and pistons, I want to do a inlet manifold but don't seam to find a lower manifold cad drawing.

Alan

 

[BlackUZZ31]

I would keep the nice reliable crank driven pump and just feed it from your surge tank! (if you really need one! a well baffled stock sump with crank driven oil pump is a much better idea in a road car then one with a belt driven external pump)

you can do a bit more then 350 if you rebuild the auto, lots of parts available out of the US cheap, a mate was putting down 410rwkw with a rebuilt one no stress.

 

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi
Sump is a real low at the moment, I will be changing the box when I can find a 6 speed auto Trans that fits the engine, don't want to go for a manual as I have a paddle shift kit to fit, will be happy with 350 hp as 980 kg will be a bit of fun to drive with my foot full down.

Alan

 

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi Cribbj.
I am thinking of someway to return the turbo oil return back into the pump housing. I will only be using the oil back into engine and not the oil out of the engine which would have gone through the filter, would you think this is a good idea to return oil back into the engine this way, it would solve the oil seal problem.

Alan

 

[cribbj]

Alan, at the oil filter adapter flange, there's a port that leads back to the interior of the oil pump - that might be just the place to tie in your turbo oil return and get that seal lubed too.

From that port, it'll have to travel up hill a few inches before it gets to the oil pump casing & that FMS. Normally going up hill is a bad idea for turbo oil returns, but in your case, the crankcase should be under negative pressure from your scavenge pumps, so it might work out just fine.

 

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi Cribbj.
I was thinking that, I might be able to mod the pump case so the oil comes in a bit higher with a couple of an-10 fittings. I also have a crankcase vacuum pump that can pull up to 20" but not sure how to mount it yet, still figuring how to mount the alternator.

Thanks for the help


Alan