Newbie in Supercharging a SC400

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
It doesnt look like that engine is in any Lexus vehicle, so im guessing his cableing issue will be different than yours, my guess is that you would have to lengthen the throttle cable and maybe another one. just my 0.02
 
Belts are available from any auto parts store.

You need to know how long your specific belt will be.

I suggest you get a 14mm ring spanner and a dressmakers tape measure and do the following:

Run the tape arounfd the proposed belt run. Use the 14mm ring on the tensioner pulley to roll it as far as possible against the spring. Note the length of the belt.

Wander down to you auto parts man and order the closest belt you can get to the size you measured. I alway go one size under if it's within 10mm (1/2") of my measurement as belts will stretch with use.

Throttle cables are a "get what you need to suit your application" thing
 
Supercharger pulleys

Cobra said:
As I look at your supercharger system, I'm wondering if the very top pulley, which is under the top radiator hose that you're using is stock. Does the pulley's teeth cut the belt's outer side? How long have you've been using this setup? Do you think it's possible to replace that pulley by another smooth pulley bearing?
 
Just a metal lath. I have a few spare, send me your details and I will post one to you.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
quadcam boat said:
Yeah,
after the throttle body but before the supercharger. That way the accessories you are relocating will have vacuum at idol and atmospheric pressure at wide open throttle (which would be full boost into the engine). This would be the same situation as before you fit the supercharger - vacuum at idol and atmospheric pressure at WOT for these accessories.
It would be a good idea to refit the idol control as it is a great thing. Things like the crankcase breather can be deleted and replaced with an oil catch can, which has some advantages, but may give you some dramas for a roadworthy certificate of emissions testing.

You would put your blow off valve after the supercharger and before the air enters the engine (of course!!), but I'm not sure why you would want to fit a blow off valve??
To regulate the boost pressure on a positive displacement supercharger, just change the pulley sizes untill you get the boost you want. You don't need a blow off valve.

I'm not a turbo freak, buit I think they are intended for turbo setups to allow excess boost to vent as you back off the throttle (especially during gear changes). By venting the excess air, the turbo dosen't loose it's rotational speed and is spinning fast enough to have boost come on quicker when you plant your foot again after changing gears.

I have heard of some people have used them on cyntrifugal supercharger setups so they can run a higher drive ratio and bring on boost in the lower RPM range.
At higher RPM, the high drive ratio creates too much boost, so the blow off valve vents excess pressure to regulate the boost to a level that the engine can handle.

A bit of a waste really, because the supercharger is drawing excess power to make the boost and then it is being wasted as the excess boost is being bled off anyway. This is the tradeoff to get a cyntrifugal to create boost in the lower RPM range.

The only other reason to fit a blow off valve is for 'wank' factor.
Do you think it's possible not to use the bypass valve in supercharging the 1UZ-FE? Will it harm anything? It's because I find it difficult to fit the bypass valve section while retaining the factory throtle body position. I hope the best fitment would be without the bypass valve so that the supercharger itself is shorter. Thanks.
 
Cobra said:
Just a metal lath. I have a few spare, send me your details and I will post one to you.
Today after I had the measurement of the Eaton M90, I found it difficult to fit the supercharger with its bypass valve while retaining the factory throtle body position. The length of the Eaton is 19.5 inches and its height is 5.4 inches. After lining up, the bypass valve's end almost hit the firewall of the car. And the height of the supercharger wouldn't allow me to keep the factory's manifold lower part. If I screw up with the manifold without success, it will be expensive to get one. So I don't know if I can be able to proceed with it. Therefore, I'll wait to see if I need the smooth idler pulley or not. I appreciate for your consideration. Thanks.
 
Eaton M90 and Centrifugal superchargers

Cobra said:
What model M90 do you have?
I'm not sure but the seller advertised it as a short snout from a GM 3.8 with the size of 19 1/2" long, 10 1/2" wide, and 5 1/4" tall.. Also, another seller with a long snout from a 1996-2002 GM 3800 gave me the size of 22" long, 10" wide, and 5 1/4" tall. These sizes just turn me off and cut my dream. And I wonder how you could do an amazing job out of them.

There's one thing I'd like to ask you if in case that I use a centrifugal supercharger such as a Vortech or a Powerdyne, can I bolt its bracket to the chassis instead of the engine block?

Is it safe for the belt this way? I tried to rev the engine to high RPM but I didn't see the engine moves up like some 4 cylinder engines. I'm thinking about putting the centrifugal supercharger in the place of the air intake box on the passenger side. Thanks.

Bests,
 
Steve,

The Supercharger can't be bolted to the chassis.

The belt will be passing 50+hp so it needs to stay very tight. Even 1/4" movment between engine and chassis would see the belt go loose.

Lextreme sells centifugal brackets. Check out the home page.
 
Zuffen said:
Steve,

The Supercharger can't be bolted to the chassis.

The belt will be passing 50+hp so it needs to stay very tight. Even 1/4" movment between engine and chassis would see the belt go loose.

Lextreme sells centifugal brackets. Check out the home page.
Hello Zuffen,

It's nice to hear from you. I hope you had a nice vacation. I just found out that my first cousin is living in New South Whale, which is in Sydney. Well, I'm not sure if I spelled it right.

For the supercharger, after I had some measurements of an Eaton M90 and even the M62, I think that my dream of a nice root supercharger sitting in my engine bay is gone due to its size. I just don't want to cut the lower intake manifold. It's because for every 2 years in California, I have to take my car for a Smog Check, and it's illegal to have anything that's not in stock. So that means I need a forced induction system that is easily and economically bolted and taken off. Yes, I checked out the centrifugal bracket from Lextreme but I'm not sure if it'll fit on my SC400 engine, which is a little bit tighter. Also, it's so expensive.

I'm thinking about putting 2 turbos as smallest as possible such as the TD04s from Mitsubishi Eclipse or (2) T25s Garrett. Combining together, they should handle 6 psi efficiently, because that's all I need. I might put them on the right and the left of the radiator fan, and run the pipes just right below the lower control arm bushings in which the pipes are after the catalytic converters. This way, I can save about 1/2" for the ground clearance even though they're marginal because I lowered my car for 1.5". However, I still need to take my car to a turbo retailer and estimate the approximate fitment. What do you think?

Bests,
Steve
 
Steve,

If the turbos will do the job youwant go for it.

There a re a lot of advantages with turbos over superchargers on a fitment basis.

Search hard and you'll get the best answers.
 
I actually bought a brand new Eaton MP112 blower for my engine and afterwards decided to go single turbo. Sure there is more exhaust work, but a large turbo is MUCH more efficient then any supercharger, except the Whipple/Lysholm ones, which are a whole new story. You don't have to screw with the intake manifold or any of the other sensors. Then I thought, although this is my weekend racer, I am still going to need DECENT gas mileage getting to races. Having parasitic drag (belts) takes away MPG and even power. Not to mention; "Less parts equal less problems." Which is totally true in mechanics.

As far as EGR goes, take all that crap off and make block-off plates. I passed, even with no cat and egr gone, it runs pleanty clean. If nothing else, bring $10 and "tip" them if you have to! (And always go for the teenagers at the emissions places, they aren't so uptight.)

Good luck with the project.
-Steve
 


Back
Top