New motor... Anything I should replace before install?

[RedPhoenix]

I found a 63K mile motor from R&J (sponsor on CL). Im thinking about buying this one to replace my rod knocking current motor.

Is there anything I should replace while it is out? I plan on doing plugs and wires once its running, but anything seals or stuff I should look out for? If I have to go tearing it apart, I will pass for now, but easy stuff to get to? I need this thing in asap.

Matt

 

[Lextreme II]

Starter,
Water pumping
Timing Belt
Front and rear main seals.

 

[Tonyd]

I'd change the

Water Pump
Timing Belt
Timing Belt idler pulleys.

Cheers,

Tony

 

[Jake Breyck]

matt rear main seal is super important, its a huge project to do later. front main seal is relitivly easy to do later one wile the motor is out of the car its even easyer. just immagine if the front main seal leak i had was on the rear main seal, man that woulda sucked.

 

[XR8tt]

Starter motor Lol...
Yep as said all above...

 

[SC400TT]

Starter,
Water pumping
Timing Belt
Front and rear main seals.

That sounds rignt. New gaskets also for anthing you remove and reinstall. I have a slightly used water pump and timing belt if you are interested. Nothing wrong with them, and factory OEM parts. I just put all new on my new motor.

Ryan

 

[jibbby]

Pistons and rods.... (forged) He He....

 

[cribbj]

When you get that motor, I'd take the valve covers off and the bottom sheet metal sump and clean those areas out well. You might be lucky and get a motor that has been well cared for, but if not, you may find an accumulation of sludge and junk in those areas.

If you find it's really bad, you might want to consider pulling the upper pan too, and running some kerosene, varsol, or other strong degreaser through all the drain back holes, from the heads, etc. A couple of round bristle brushes with long handles will come in handy for cleaning the drain back passages.

Also, if you find it's really sludged up, you probably should pull the oil pump and clean it out, or just replace it. David (Lextreme) has these at unbeatable prices. Don't forget to pull off the cast oil filter housing and clean it out, and to replace the oil filter. Also, there's a little "Figure 8" o-ring between the filter housing and the block, and IMO it would be much better to replace this with the OEM product, than try to seal it with silicone.

After this, you'll probably want to pick up a fresh set of valve cover gaskets, a new PCV valve and the grommet that goes with the PCV valve, as you'll probably destroy the old grommet trying to get the PCV valve out.

 

[mshawari1]

Yes, change the Front and rear main seals. and the PVC.