My Camshafts have arrived

[Zuffen]

I recently ordered some camshafts and valve springs from Kelford in NZ.

This morning they arrived at work. Certainly can't complain about the turn around time. Most efficient.

They look good and the best part is they came through Customs without any charges. Normally we would pay 10% Goods and Services Tax but for some reason I wasn't charged.

I now have almost all I need to start my engine build.

Now what to do about conrods?

 

[Peewee]

I am so jealous right now...

Specs dude!

 

[Zuffen]

Inlet has 264 degree duration with .330" lift
Exhaust has 272 duration and .350" lift.

According to the information it will produce good power from 1,500-6,000 rpm. Which suits me fine as I don't need to rev an engine to 7,000 to make power.

 

[Peewee]

Is that seat to seat, or @ 50thou?

Sounds like a lot more mild than I'll be getting

 

[Lextreme II]

I am so jealous too. Rod, what are the springs pressure rated? I am installing Supra TT Springs, retainers and locks in my motor. I might get cams from my engine builder. Not sure the price. Please give me some cam specs.

 

[Zuffen]

Peewee,

I can't tell you the lift as I have the figures at work.

Lextreme,

Check www.thecamshaftshop.com and look under the Toyota heading.

Kevin has a good range of grinds available and to be honest is the nicest guy to deal with.

I wouldn't look to your engine man for cams I'd go to the experts.

 

[240Stu]

follow up

Hey, would be interested to know how you're going with those cams you got from the Kiwis. Any further info would be great - dyno figures, driving feel (including whatever other mods you've got done such as extractors/exhaust etc).

 

[Zuffen]

240,

This is a long term build.

I'm building a decompressed (8.5:1) using the Ross group purchase pistons combined with a a little porting but standard valves and ARP head studs, rod bolts and main bolts, the Kelford cams and probably thier adjustable scissor gears and cam gears all topped by an Eaton MP112 supercharger and (probably) Autronic management. I'm looking for lots of power but good all round drivability.

I call drivability the ability to drive away from everyone else at the traffic lights.

It will all be hooked up to a 3 speed Torqueflite auto trans (their bulletproof) and Range Rover transfer case.

The engine should be finished for Christmas (maybe Santa will put it in my stocking?) so some figures are months away.

Once it's up and running expect some dyno figures and an ET slip.

 

[Lextreme II]

Rod,

That would be one of the nicest 1UZ build up i have seen in here. Congrats for ARP Studs all round.

 

[Zuffen]

It's all looking good at the moment.

Once I sort the rods out I'll get it moving.

I ordered all necessary gaskets yesterday from Autopartswarehouse on the Net. I priced the parts in Australia and they would have cost $690.00 (Aussie Dollars) and I got them for $240.00 (US Dollars)

My joy at missing paying Tax on my cams was short lived I recieved an invoice for $243.00 from DHL this morning to cover the Tax they paid clearing them thru customs. Oh well what's a few more dollars.

 

[Peewee]

So how much was the total cost including shipping? (cams and springs and tax).

PM me if you don't want to post it.

 

[Zuffen]

To be honest I don't know exactly but .

My wife does she fell over at the look of my VISA Card for the month.

Hang on it's in the Customs paperwork.

AUS $1985.75 for cams, springs, freight, clearance costs and Import Duty.

One advantage I see of the cams I'm using is they won't want to rev much over 6,000 which places a safe rev limit on the engine. I expect to have adaquate power without revving the life out of it.

 

[SCV8]

Sounds like a good investment to have made in a serious build, along with a good ecu, you can now do way more than with the stock setup.
One thing I've noticed with cams that are rated to make power from x,000-x,000rpms is that they will usually want to rev about 1,000 higher than that number as the power trails off, but ususally that makes for a better rpm after the shift.
For the heads that are what they are, I would have made a very similar choice in such a big investment, can't wait to hear what the results are.
Do you plan on running everything in without the blower?

 

[JBrady]

Sounds like a good investment to have made in a serious build, along with a good ecu, you can now do way more than with the stock setup.
One thing I've noticed with cams that are rated to make power from x,000-x,000rpms is that they will usually want to rev about 1,000 higher than that number as the power trails off, but ususally that makes for a better rpm after the shift.
For the heads that are what they are, I would have made a very similar choice in such a big investment, can't wait to hear what the results are.
Do you plan on running everything in without the blower?

Rod,

Sounds great. Those are much larger cams than in my engine 230/.300 and mine is rated 290hp at 6000rpm. My guess is your power peak will be in the 6500rpm range.

Pictures please!

 

[Zuffen]

I plan on building the engine complete with blower and run it from there.

I'd like to tune it on an engine dyno (at least the figures will be fair dinkum flywheel HP) then drop it in and put a few K's on it then run it on a chassis dyno.

With the heads I don't plan anything radical, only a bit of work in the ports to open them up a bit. I won't go oversize in valves as with 14lb it will be getting plenty of air.

I expect the upper end torque curve to be simmilar to stock (but way higher on the graph) with power dropping away at 6,000rpm, which suits me fine.

I'm hoping for a fat lower end as that is really where we all drive our cars.

I'm not after max horsepower but maximum drivability. I want it to pull strongly from 1,500rpm and just keep spinning.

With a big blower I think you can have you cake and eat it but you'll spend a bit on fuel.

Oh I also want to get the car into the 12's at my local drag strip.