loom questions

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aniesigh

Member
Messages
41
Location
UK
Hi, so ive arranged a motor and auto box to go and collect on thursday. ive got to remove it myself which is what i wanted as i want to know how it goes. my question is, is there an engine sub-loom? and if so is this all i need or is it worth my while pulling out the complete loom from behind the dash? ive read differing opinions on wiring them up, some say only 7 wires needed and others say alot more so bearing in mind i want it to run properly! (inc the auto box) how much do i need to pull out? i don't mind spending the time working out what i do and don't need to get everything working after ive collected it from studying diagrams and the loom etc as i'm not too bad with electrics i just don't have time to work out what i need before thursday. any other hints on general removing engine / box also appreciated. sure i'll work it out on the day but if theres anything special i need to take with me it would be handy to know before i leave :)

cheers all
 
When I pull them out I disconnect the alternator loom on the RH side, undo the battery terminals from th battery and the plug beside the battery depending on model them remove plugs from the ecu and undo the engine loom to body plugs and cut the last couple of ECU plugs that go into the body loom. Slip the wiring through the firewall and pull the motor. I usually grab the Fuel pump ECU depending on the model from the LH rear inner panel. I also like to grap the radiator. Dont forget the AFM ( I normally grab the whole airbox and ignitors. Cheers
 
I got the shits with the cocksmokers who afew years ago used
To say its only 7 wires and when I tell people it's a good few days to a week
To get it loOking neat and tidy and everything working they would laugh at me
So now they can all get fkt as I tell everyone it's only 7 wires hehehehehehe
All u need in wiring is complete engine loom. Alternator plug
And the plugs on ecu that goto dash

If its your first time and u will be probing each wire to see where
It goes then I would get all electrics from steering wheel forward

Make sure u get all from same car the ecu and igniters and air flow
Meter
 
Sideshow: yes it was your posts about it not being 7 wires that made me post this up basically. i'm not after a quick 'get it to run' soloution just need to know what parts from the car i need to get it to run properly! . is there a seperate transmission ECU? .

it will be my first 1uz ive taken out, so am i right in understanding its just the engine loom and then the plugs that go towards the main dash loom with a few inches of cable still attatched to them? they don't go to anything important then e.g more ecu's etc?
what about the shift mechanism? are there important wires that go to that? interlocks etc?

will be taking the rad and afm etc and as many bits as i can get away with really just don't want to have to take dash loom out if i don't need to, but at the same time i don't want to leave it and then find i needed bits of it!

cheers all
 
if your 1uz is from around 1990 till around 1997 then u dont really need much extra
shifter is all simple
most have 1 ecu
only early crowns have 2 ecus
ive done over 100 1uzs and when customer wants tow in drive out wire up it takes around 1 to 1.5 days depending on car and thats me knowing 99% of the stuff in my head
so i tell first timers maybe spend afew weeks getting around the diags for the motor and the car its going in
also maybe learn baout diagnosing incase u have issues
auto should all be fine just dont cut harness where it goes down to auto keep the engine loom all together
 
Hi slideshow, just reading this post. just fitted my 1uz in to my project. got the engine running but wiring up fuel pump direct, have got oil pressure and alternator lights sorted. need some help with a couple of others, need the engine diagnostic light wiring how to, also the tacho wires where to pick them up, also heard that they can work off 4cylinder toyota rev counters is this right. then wired in fuel pump ecu lokked at wiring diagram i have but when power on and turning over no pump working, starts with 12volts then drops to no volts, is this pump ecu nacked.
Any help would be greatfull.
Cheers
 
Hi slideshow, just reading this post. just fitted my 1uz in to my project. got the engine running but wiring up fuel pump direct, have got oil pressure and alternator lights sorted. need some help with a couple of others, need the engine diagnostic light wiring how to, also the tacho wires where to pick them up, also heard that they can work off 4cylinder toyota rev counters is this right. then wired in fuel pump ecu lokked at wiring diagram i have but when power on and turning over no pump working, starts with 12volts then drops to no volts, is this pump ecu nacked.
Any help would be greatfull.
Cheers


I wire the fuel pumps using a 30A five pin relay:

Pin 30. Fuel pump.
Pin 86. Oil pressure switch wire.
Pin 85 Ignition.
Pin 87 Crank signal wire either from the starter solenoid or the ignition wiring, so it's only supplying 12volts when the engine is being cranked.
Pin 87a. Ignition.

If the fuel pump runs when you switch on the ignition, just swap the wires on pins 85 & 87a

You can also use the alternator's charge light wire instead of the oil pressure light wire..

Tacho signal comes from one of the igniters, the one with the extra black wire going to it.


Hope that helps, it's very early in the morning in Oz at the moment.:D
 
I wire the fuel pumps using a 30A five pin relay:

Pin 30. Fuel pump.
Pin 86. Oil pressure switch wire.
Pin 85 Ignition.
Pin 87 Crank signal wire either from the starter solenoid or the ignition wiring, so it's only supplying 12volts when the engine is being cranked.
Pin 87a. Ignition.

If the fuel pump runs when you switch on the ignition, just swap the wires on pins 86 & 87a

You can also use the alternator's charge light wire instead of the oil pressure light wire..

Tacho signal comes from one of the igniters, the one with the extra black wire going to it.


Hope that helps, it's very early in the morning in Oz at the moment.:D


Edited as wrong pin number given.:eek:
 
i never run the fuel pump relay
i get custom tacho relays made up and i use them
they prime for 2 seconds then run when there is rpm
as bushwacker showed there is other ways to do it
the diag light its the "w" pin find it and connect to neg side of a globe
i dont run the diag light sometiems because if u havnt hooked everything up properly
as in the factory car then globe might come on even if everything is running ok
so i just leave a wire for it and if theres a prob u can probe it and test for codes
its mor eimportant to wire up the diagnostic connector thats found under dash so u can read live data
 
electrics

Thanks for help so far,
i take it that you put power through light down to oil switch, same with coolant. the fuel pump i read that they have problems with starting if not run through ecu, but if not its easer to wire in for me so great.
the tacho do you run for a four cylinder or as an eight cylinder rpm just read something some were.
what do you mean find the w for the engine check light, does this need a 12v supply to it or just earthed threw a bulb.

Sorry will have more questions but only want to do once and get it right. as said have got it running just want to sort all warning lights out, once done will try to sort out auto box as using that all in a p100 pickup.
Thanks again:):D
 
Thanks for help so far,
i take it that you put power through light down to oil switch, same with coolant. the fuel pump i read that they have problems with starting if not run through ecu, but if not its easer to wire in for me so great.
the tacho do you run for a four cylinder or as an eight cylinder rpm just read something some were.
what do you mean find the w for the engine check light, does this need a 12v supply to it or just earthed threw a bulb.

Sorry will have more questions but only want to do once and get it right. as said have got it running just want to sort all warning lights out, once done will try to sort out auto box as using that all in a p100 pickup.
Thanks again:):D

What year V8 do you have?
Or what is the ECU plug configuration 22-16-26............?
 
Ask as many questions u like
But these days I got jack shit of going broke so I charge
100 bucks a question that's y I fkt off from Sydney
So hopefully someone else can help u
Hehehehehehe
I don't mind helping abit but if u wanted a proper stress free
Job u should have sent it to me hahahahahhaha
 
The ecu configuration is 40 40 40, if i remember right it was a 1992. as said got it running sorted the oil and temp and alternator lights, just need to sort out wire for tacho redo fuel pump if not needed to run through pump ecu.
how do i get around the speed sensors for the gearbox as not got the original head unit and the rear diff is from a different manufacturer or does it matter. oh it was a complete engine lom not a cut one.
Cheers
 
The ecu configuration is 40 40 40, if i remember right it was a 1992. as said got it running sorted the oil and temp and alternator lights, just need to sort out wire for tacho redo fuel pump if not needed to run through pump ecu.
how do i get around the speed sensors for the gearbox as not got the original head unit and the rear diff is from a different manufacturer or does it matter. oh it was a complete engine lom not a cut one.
Cheers


See this part diagram of your ECU......
http://www.lextreme.com/PDF/scecu2.pdf

Pin number 6 (W) blue/yellow wire is for the engine check light. Take this wire to the light, the other side goes to the ignition 12v.

No need to use the fuel pump ECU, a 30a relay connected up as in my previous post works fine.

The tacho feed comes from one of the igniters. There's an extra wire in one of the igniter plugs, this is what goes to the tacho. It's a 4 cylinder signal so your tacho should work OK.
 
thanks for that will get that wired up.
next is the auto lights so i know what gear its in then hope the auto box works ok, any thing i should or shouldnt do with the auto to get it working right
 


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