Link ECU Help

[svsgt1]

Hey guys. I really need your help. I just bought a LINK v5 ecu and I can't seem to get my car started. I heard that the default map should be able to get the car running but that doesn't seem to be the case with me. So if anyone out there has a map for their Link ecu that works it woudl be greatly appreciated if someone could send it to me. I don't know if you can send it to me through this forum but if you can't you can just send it to [email protected].


Thanks,
Adam

 

[gloverman]

I will send a couple as soon as I work out how to get them off my laptop onto disc. Working on it now. Cheers

 

[gloverman]

Link File

Here is one of our link maps. If it's not here I have e-mailed it to you as well. You will need to use the link software to open it. The new Link package should have a CD with it or download from link website. Should work ok for you but the vehicle should start on the base map and run well although abit rich. Has it been rewired or is it the same wiring as with the old link? To start and run the link needs over about 8.5 volts of power supply a good earth and a crank/cam signal, with this it will swtich ignitors and injectors, add all the other inputs to run well. Are your ignitor bodies earthed?
Cheers and I hope this helps.

Regards
Kelvin

 

[svsgt1]

Hey, Thanks for the maps. I will try them asap. The problems I am having are very strange. I tapped into the crankshaft and camshaft sync signals with an oscilloscope and verified that the signals were there and were at the right intervals. I also tapped into the fuel injectors and determined they are getting a pulse of enough volts. The spark plugs are getting spark too.


Neil Harvey at Link USA said the wiring shoudl be the same and the two units will just be plug and play. When the new coputer is plugged in all I get is is cranking from the starter motor and it doesn't even try to start. Not even close. When I plug in the old computer it immediately trys to start, but it has trouble starting because I think it is just way to rich, but it at least begins to turn over and start.

So that tells me that the rest of the car is at least working properly (timing, ignitor, spark, fuel, compression, etc) I was trying to figure out how the LINK computer knows what the proper firing order is for 1UZ but apparently that is hard coded into the board from what I read in the manual. The last page of the wiring and installation manual states that the crankshaft trigger has 12 teeth while the camshaft trigger has 1 tooth, which I verified to be correct. It also states that the firing order is 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2. I have not changed the ignitor at all.

So I can't think of what the problem can be. I believe it is one of the following.
1) The two Link units are not plug and play and are wired differently. (Highly doubtfull since the crank and cam triggers are wired the same as well as the RPM and power wires.)

2) The new LINK ECU was not configured properly for the 1UZ like it was supposed to be.

3) The communication with the ignitor is different from the old and new computer.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam Grosso

 

[gloverman]

hello

The link does not need to know the firing order. On the configaration menu it should be set to multicoil ,with 8 cylinder and ign3 used for tacho or shift. From this the Link only needs to know which ignitor to pulse first and the distributors do the rest.
Does it try to start with the old link or actually start and run?
The input pins and output pins should be the same between the two units. If you download the map from the ecu and send it to me before you change anything I will check it out. There are quite a lot of program differances between the two units. If you download the map I sent you the confiration will also change so it pays to save the original every time. Looks like you should use the ones I emailed as the one on here is only the sample one from the link disc. If that does not look any good I can send it as a word file and you manually input the data into the link. Still works but a bit slow. Good Luck Kelvin

 

[svsgt1]

Kelvin,

I went and tried your maps and guess what, it still did NOT work. So I went through both manuals (old and new ECU) to try and find any differences in wiring, description, etc. I coudln't find anything. But I noticed that on the page wit the IGN info it said that there are 4 dip switches on the sub-board and by default they are set to 1,0,0,1 but if you use a rotary setup they shoudl be set to 0,1,1,0. I figured that they were set to the default but after not having any other option I decided to open up the unit. What I found was interesting as they were all set to 0. I changed them to the proper setting and guess what. As soon as I attempted to start it up it immediately tried to fire. So after a few seconds of loading in your map and changing the fuel pressure regulator I got to it to run. It was running to rich and I probably had the fuel pressure to high also but I at aleast got it running. I only spent a min out there as I had to go out. But I will try to get some base tuning done today or tomorrow. I don't know why the dip switches were not set to what they shoudd be from the factory, but at least it works now. Do you know if there is another setting for those dip switches that would be more optimal for our engines or are those the only two settings?

Thanks for all your help,
Adam

 

[gloverman]

good to hear you have it running. I wasn't sure the later Links had switches inside. I didn't remember seeing any last time I was inside - I was converting one from idle speed control to boost control. Excellant you got it running. As for optimal setting of dip switches go onto the forum at the link website - the generally answer quickly or if that doesn't work I will ask them when I talk to them next. I didn't realise you car had different cams. I will post on the other thread on some adjustments to the tuning. Cheers